Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

[Vision83]

Thanks for the tip! Just made a grocery run and tried it when I got back. Finally was able to confirm my oil level is spot on.

I had hard time getting a good reading after changing oil as well. The napkin tip helped, when you check the oil multiple times in row, some oil stays in the dip stick tube and will throw off the reading. This is worse with brand new clear oil. I stopped by one of the 5 min oil change places on my way home, and they checked it and it was right below the max line. I added exactly 6qt and drained with the only the drivers tire on a ramp.

They showed me another trick of spraying off the dip stick with WD-40 and wiping it clean. Then check the oil level. The WD-40 residue left on the stick prevents the oil stuck in the tube from attaching. It gave a really clear reading. This will get a lot easier as the oil gets darker.

 

[Nuke]

The driveshafts have grease fittings (zerks), correct? How difficult do you assess the front drive shaft fittings to access? On our dearly departed 4Runner they were a PAIN!

 

[CruiserConundrum]

The driveshafts have grease fittings (zerks), correct? How difficult do you assess the front drive shaft fittings to access? On our dearly departed 4Runner they were a PAIN!

Would like to know this as well.

 

[jmorgan]

Thanks for the post and images. Oil/filter change just as you wrote.

 

[TrailWhale]

Let's do this!

 

[TACO-TO-CRUZR]

I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

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Hello Teebo, thanks for sharing.
I just did mine at 1832 miles "HOT" and dammit that oil filter was on very tight. Made a mess.
What is the torque spec. for the drain plug?
My Tacoma was 30 ftlb for the same 14mm plug.

 

[CruiserConundrum]

Would like to know this as well.

Agreed. Would be great if we could document and catalogue procedures for each of the maintenance actions as folks arrive at each maintenance milestone.

 

[booch2024]

Just got my oil lab results back from blackstone. Just a reminder that my oil was really dark and smelled like gas.

“Good news - nothing looks like trouble in your Toyota's first sample. There's a trace of fuel, but
that's not cautionary. Below the 0.5% we can start putting a percentage on, a trace of fuel is harmless and
you can see it didn't thin the oil significantly based on the normal viscosity, and the TBN was plenty strong.
The dark color wasn't related to contamination and the oil appears to have worked just fine. The excess
metal and silicon are typical in factory fills and we should find progress starting with the next oil. Note
averages are based on a 4,800-mile run.”

I’m feeling much better!

 

[berry802]

Just got my oil lab results back from blackstone. Just a reminder that my oil was really dark and smelled like gas.

“Good news - nothing looks like trouble in your Toyota's first sample. There's a trace of fuel, but
that's not cautionary. Below the 0.5% we can start putting a percentage on, a trace of fuel is harmless and
you can see it didn't thin the oil significantly based on the normal viscosity, and the TBN was plenty strong.
The dark color wasn't related to contamination and the oil appears to have worked just fine. The excess
metal and silicon are typical in factory fills and we should find progress starting with the next oil. Note
averages are based on a 4,800-mile run.”

I’m feeling much better!

What mileage were you at when you changed yours? Waiting for my results hoping I hear the same. Thanks

 

[booch2024]

What mileage were you at when you changed yours? Waiting for my results hoping I hear the same. Thanks

I changed it at 1,175.

 

[TAP34]

I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

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I ve been looking all over the internet on how to change out oil on the LC250; just got a icecap 1958 and need to get on top of the first oil change. Thank you for putting this up

Question can these filters go every other change out (8-10k) with oil being a changed out every 3-5k?

 

[TAP34]

67? Piece of cake! Still doing, and have always done my own oil changes, at age 82... The biggest challenge is getting on/off the creeper.

I’m 46 and I approve this message.

 

[TAP34]

The CarCareGuy did a video on Toyota parts OEM vs knock offs. Toyota parts are always labeled with the country of manufacture, and they do extensive QC on them. Knock offs are mostly labeled "Made in Japan" and the print quality on the label is just a little off, the box quality colors and printing are also just a little off. I'd say if they came from the dealer's parts counter, you're good.

Well my LC250 says made in Japan I hope that ain’t a knock off

 

[Vision83]

I ve been looking all over the internet on how to change out oil on the LC250; just got a icecap 1958 and need to get on top of the first oil change. Thank you for putting this up

Question can these filters go every other change out (8-10k) with oil being a changed out every 3-5k?

The only time I haven't change the filter on any car, is when I had the wrong filter and the oil was drained. I would always change the filter when changing the oil. The oil and filter get dirty over the course of 1 year or 3-5k miles. The filter performance will degrade over time and that is your only defense to keep crap out of the oil. Also you want to keep the oil flowing through the system as well as possible.

If it was just one oil change and not the break in oil change (1st change) I would not worry about it too much.. but given a choice, change the filter with every oil change.

 

[Teebo]

I ve been looking all over the internet on how to change out oil on the LC250; just got a icecap 1958 and need to get on top of the first oil change. Thank you for putting this up

Question can these filters go every other change out (8-10k) with oil being a changed out every 3-5k?

I would just change it. I'm already under the truck and it cost around $5. That's a gallon of gas around here. It's worth it to me to know it's as clean as possible.

 

[TAP34]

The only time I haven't change the filter on any car, is when I had the wrong filter and the oil was drained. I would always change the filter when changing the oil. The oil and filter get dirty over the course of 1 year or 3-5k miles. The filter performance will degrade over time and that is your only defense to keep crap out of the oil. Also you want to keep the oil flowing through the system as well as possible.

If it was just one oil change and not the break in oil change (1st change) I would not worry about it too much.. but given a choice, change the filter with every oil change.

Thanks, buddy!

 

[McCloud_Rainbow]

Looking for an oil drain pan/transport solution that actually works. I live in California and don’t have a shop or oil storage solution onsite in my garage. I need to be able to cleanly capture the oil when it drains and then transport it to hazardous waste disposal without spilling it on the ground or inside my LC when I transport it.

Oil change is easy, but you can see the shit show that happened with my first one. I got the 10 quart drain pan/storage can from O’Reilly. Aimed true with the oil, but the pan wouldn’t drink it and it splashed and overflowed everywhere creating a massive oil spill. The pan was too shallow and even though I had all the valves opened to avoid vacuum seal on the pan, it overflowed.

Would love to change my own oil again, but not if it makes this kind of a mess. Also, don’t want to transport the spilled oil soaked stuff in my LC again.

P.S. I know that installing a Fumoto oil drain valve would make future changes easier and cleaner, but the thought of having it hit something…even with my skids in place…would just make me worry all the time.

Thanks in advance!

 

[EOD Guy]

I was in the same boat, I thought it may have been, me blocking the pan holes with the filter, but as you seem to have the same results as mine....... frick'in oil everywhere!

Next change, I'm going to try an old trick for removing oil filters..... Take an empty 2 liter soda bottle and cut the bottom off and use as a flexible funnel. I plan on cutting the bottom/side in a "L" shape to allow for a back splash and taping several layers of paper towels around the body, cause that oil was still rather hot!

 

[ultane]

Looking for an oil drain pan/transport solution that actually works. I live in California and don’t have a shop or oil storage solution onsite in my garage. I need to be able to cleanly capture the oil when it drains and then transport it to hazardous waste disposal without spilling it on the ground or inside my LC when I transport it.

Oil change is easy, but you can see the shit show that happened with my first one. I got the 10 quart drain pan/storage can from O’Reilly. Aimed true with the oil, but the pan wouldn’t drink it and it splashed and overflowed everywhere creating a massive oil spill. The pan was too shallow and even though I had all the valves opened to avoid vacuum seal on the pan, it overflowed.

Would love to change my own oil again, but not if it makes this kind of a mess. Also, don’t want to transport the spilled oil soaked stuff in my LC again.

P.S. I know that installing a Fumoto oil drain valve would make future changes easier and cleaner, but the thought of having it hit something…even with my skids in place…would just make me worry all the time.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 10136

I’ve NEVER done that!!

Get the Fumoto valve that has the hose in the kit, and the little vinyl caps.. put the hose where you want it to go. Easy peasy.

I THINK this is the one you want, but double check first..

Amazon.com

 

[RUN-8]

Looking for an oil drain pan/transport solution that actually works. I live in California and don’t have a shop or oil storage solution onsite in my garage. I need to be able to cleanly capture the oil when it drains and then transport it to hazardous waste disposal without spilling it on the ground or inside my LC when I transport it.

Oil change is easy, but you can see the shit show that happened with my first one. I got the 10 quart drain pan/storage can from O’Reilly. Aimed true with the oil, but the pan wouldn’t drink it and it splashed and overflowed everywhere creating a massive oil spill. The pan was too shallow and even though I had all the valves opened to avoid vacuum seal on the pan, it overflowed.

Would love to change my own oil again, but not if it makes this kind of a mess. Also, don’t want to transport the spilled oil soaked stuff in my LC again.

P.S. I know that installing a Fumoto oil drain valve would make future changes easier and cleaner, but the thought of having it hit something…even with my skids in place…would just make me worry all the time.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 10136

Fumoto drain valve is the answer.