First oil change at 12 miles.

[Atomic67]

While auto engines have a filter, you surely know that not all the oil gets filtered during a “pass” thru the engine, and that the total oil filtered per pass thru the engine is not 100% to support lubrication needs. Also, as an engineer you understand that while all engines during break in produce some metal, which is normal, the less particulate in the system the less wear on the engine. Also, the filter on this new engine is comically small. Compared to my other Crusiers, it’s a fraction of the size. Again, I’m sure it was engineered to the needs of the engine, but it’s tiny, and has a fraction of the filtration media other filter housings have.

While a 10k first oil change might get you to the end of your 5 year 60,000 mile powertrain warranty period, that is not my intention with my LC. I’d like to see this thing far exceed normal engine life expectations..

Anyhow, oil is cheap, engines are not. After I’m done with break in, I’ll be doing a simple 5,000 mile regimen. Too easy not to.

This. I believe the recommended interval is designed to make the engine last until 60,000 miles and minimize cost to Toyota for paid oil changes. The bottom line, unfortunately, is what drives most companies these days. I want mine to last longer.

 

[ArinsaChamp]

Picked up our 2025 yesterday.

did the first oil change at just 12 miles.

Oil had lots of micro flakes and metallic sheen, almost like micro glitter

SO glad I did a spill & fill oil change right then before going any further. cheap drain pan, hand tools, right in the drive of a friends house.

Remember- these engines idle a lot between leaving the plant and delivery day. That oil prob had lots of hours on it..

I also put a Votex Magnetic oil drain plug in, and then 6qts Mobil 1.

Then drove it 600 miles home from the dealer, lots of varying highway speeds, miles, gears, terrain etc. Tried to keep my foot out of it and out of the boost. (easier said than done done on these engines if you watch he turbo gauge! )

Got home, immediately Drained the oil at 600 miles. Oil looked GREAT, magnetic plug had just the finest coating of thin grey on it, clearly looked like bearing material from break-in. hardly any, just enough to wipe off.. but the Mag plug did its job. remember they only catch ferrous materials like bearing lead.

Will do another change at 1500 miles, then every 5k. Too easy not to, and great insurance.

After seeing the oil at 12 miles, I absolutely cannot fathom taking that oil to 10,000 miles on the first change. I imagine hundreds, probably thousands of ignorant or unwitting customers will happily drive their Land Cruisers to their first oil change without knowing a difference. I wonder how those engines & turbos will fare in the long run.

just sharing my experience. Cheers

It's actually not wise to do your first oil change before the break-in period's over The metallicness in the oil is normal and helps the break-in process

 

[EnigmaOperator]

It's actually not wise to do your first oil change before the break-in period's over The metallicness in the oil is normal and helps the break-in process

Source for that info?

tons of engine builders will tell you otherwise.

also- what's the official break in period? is it 5k? 10K?

less particulate in your lubrication system of an engine is always better. Remember- there's still some particulate in there, I didn't remove it all with 2 oil changes. It's still being created.

 

[RazorJ]

So at 12 miles, I would say you did the engine a disservice. Give it time to circulate the oil through the filter to collect the metal fragments. I plan on getting my first oil change at 5k. It will be ok

 

[qberg]

While auto engines have a filter, you surely know that not all the oil gets filtered during a “pass” thru the engine, and that the total oil filtered per pass thru the engine is not 100% to support lubrication needs. Also, as an engineer you understand that while all engines during break in produce some metal, which is normal, the less particulate in the system the less wear on the engine.

Every bit of oil goes through the filter before going to the rest of the engine. The oil jets, piston, VVT, main journals, crankshaft, conrod, cam journals, fuel pump, chain tensioner, balance shaft, turbo charger, lash adjusters, and vacuum pump are all lubricated/actuated with filtered oil.

The only time that it wouldn't be filtered would be when the filter bypass is triggered. The bypass is a fail safe (for something like a clogged filter) because unfiltered oil is better than no oil. Of course, the ECU is closely watching oil pressure at all times. It has an oil control valve to essentially dump oil pressure in low load conditions to reduce pumping losses. The ECU is setting that solenoid to a position and confirming through the oil pressure sensor that the pressure is changing accordingly. If your filter were clogged to the point that it is impacting oil pressure, a DTC would be set in the ECU and your dashboard would light up like a christmas tree.

 

[Area 51]

Source for that info?

tons of engine builders will tell you otherwise.

also- what's the official break in period? is it 5k? 10K?

less particulate in your lubrication system of an engine is always better. Remember- there's still some particulate in there, I didn't remove it all with 2 oil changes. It's still being created.

The very experienced Toyota tec i had a good visit with Monday said the same, more often better, when new, don't be stupid, you know how much crap can be in there.

 

[Area 51]

So at 12 miles, I would say you did the engine a disservice. Give it time to circulate the oil through the filter to collect the metal fragments. I plan on getting my first oil change at 5k. It will be ok

 

[D-mac]

So at 12 miles, I would say you did the engine a disservice. Give it time to circulate the oil through the filter to collect the metal fragments. I plan on getting my first oil change at 5k. It will be ok

Why stop at doing just an oil change at 12 miles? The transmission fluid, differential/axle oil, and coolant are likely all full of machining fragments also. Might as well be thorough and protect the entire drivetrain, and not just the engine.

 

[Area 51]

Why stop at doing just an oil change at 12 miles? The transmission fluid, differential/axle oil, and coolant are likely all full of machining fragments also. Might as well be thorough and protect the entire drivetrain, and not just the engine.

Yes very good point.
Diffs, tans/ xfer case full change out @ 1k.
Anywhere there is frictional wear. Coolant and brakes NBD.
The torsen is a very big dealio, they fail or get very noisy and worrisome.

 

[EnigmaOperator]

So at 12 miles, I would say you did the engine a disservice. Give it time to circulate the oil through the filter to collect the metal fragments. I plan on getting my first oil change at 5k. It will be ok

Hilarious.

you have no idea how many hours that engine has sat running and idling since leaving the factory, many times the cars are idled for long periods of time at the port to charge the batteries while PDI's are performed. This was clearly evidenced by the color of the oil, the fuel smell in the oil, and the ammt of visible particulate that drained out at the first oil change.

Particulate in the oil is not going to "help" break in anything, other than create more wear by taking out more bearing material as it circulates, bearings that already spec'd with bearing tolerances by the factory.

Particulate in your oil isn't going to benefit or help the oil jets, piston rings or piston walls, VVT, main journals, crankshaft, conrod, cam journals, fuel pump, chain tensioner, balance shaft, turbo charger, lash adjusters, and vacuum pump (copy & pasta'd from above) Dirty oil does not benefit these items whatsoever.

and The oil filter itself does not catch all the materials, down to 0 micron.

 

[EnigmaOperator]

Why stop at doing just an oil change at 12 miles? The transmission fluid, differential/axle oil, and coolant are likely all full of machining fragments also. Might as well be thorough and protect the entire drivetrain, and not just the engine.

These drain plugs typically have magnetic ends, and auto trans pans generally have magnets in the bottom which helps catch & filter out ferrous debris as they are circulated (in addition to a filter in the Auto transmission)

 

[EnigmaOperator]

Every bit of oil goes through the filter before going to the rest of the engine.

Do you know this to be fact?

some engines do not circulate 100% of the oil thru the filter given the oil routing through the engine. sometimes a fraction of the oil gets filtered, to provide sufficient flow for the engine. Eventually, it all gets filtered..

do you know the exact oil flow path of theT24A-FTS 2.4-liter?

 

[qberg]

Do you know this to be fact?

some engines do not circulate 100% of the oil thru the filter given the oil routing through the engine. sometimes a fraction of the oil gets filtered, to provide sufficient flow for the engine. Eventually, it all gets filtered..

do you know the exact oil flow path of theT24A-FTS 2.4-liter?

Yes. It's all listed out on the TIS. Costs $25/day to access.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/

toyota-club.net typically also has the information downloaded from the TIS, but the site hasn't worked for me in the past few days.

 

[D-mac]

These drain plugs typically have magnetic ends, and auto trans pans generally have magnets in the bottom which helps catch & filter out ferrous debris as they are circulated (in addition to a filter in the Auto transmission)

Are all of the metal parts in the transmission and drivetrain ferrous? I'm the assuming the iForce Max engine block and heads are aluminum for example.

 

[RazorJ]

Ok. I’ve never

Hilarious.

you have no idea how many hours that engine has sat running and idling since leaving the factory, many times the cars are idled for long periods of time at the port to charge the batteries while PDI's are performed. This was clearly evidenced by the color of the oil, the fuel smell in the oil, and the ammt of visible particulate that drained out at the first oil change.

Particulate in the oil is not going to "help" break in anything, other than create more wear by taking out more bearing material as it circulates, bearings that already spec'd with bearing tolerances by the factory.

Particulate in your oil isn't going to benefit or help the oil jets, piston rings or piston walls, VVT, main journals, crankshaft, conrod, cam journals, fuel pump, chain tensioner, balance shaft, turbo charger, lash adjusters, and vacuum pump (copy & pasta'd from above) Dirty oil does not benefit these items whatsoever.

and The oil filter itself does not catch all the materials, down to 0 micron.

 

[RazorJ]

Ok. I’ve never heard of anyone doing that and I’ve never had engine failure on the many vehicles I have had. Sounds like I need to start saving for a new drive train as I will change oil at 5k. My Ford gives me idle time and it was low when I bought it. I might could have gotten a better deal on my LC if I realized it was a used vehicle. You guys need to relax.

 

[EnigmaOperator]

Are all of the metal parts in the transmission and drivetrain ferrous? I'm the assuming the iForce Max engine block and heads are aluminum for example.

not likely that all are ferrous. more likely that there's a mix of aluminum, brass, steel and various other alloys involved.

 

[EnigmaOperator]

A precautionary oil change, (easy & cheap to do) was both relaxing and enjoyable.

And given the leftover machining & "debris'' issue plaguing the 3.5 Turbo engines in the Tundra and GX550, (yes we all know, different engine)... it certainly couldn't hurt.

 

[MovingUptoLC]

I took mine into Toyota for a 5000 mile oil change after doing my own at 1100 miles, and the dealership said it was not needed until 10K. I said BS, so they moved my free 10K oil change to 5K.

I did that today and was told that I was actually skipping my 5k and using up my 10k. Not just the oil change piece of the 10k. So now I only get 3 services: '10k' today, a 15k and a 20k. If I do another oil change at 10k (using my 20k service), then I'm done. Seems kinda cheap. Maybe I take her to my local mechanic for a 10k and 15k oil change to preserve the final 20k. Also was told $110 for the oil change which is ridiculous

 

[EnigmaOperator]

Filter: 5 bucks
Oil: ~ 30 bucks

15 - 20 minutes of your time.. easy