Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

I use this to avoid the mess:

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I bought it a while ago to allow oil change from the top only for my BMW and Mercedes roadster. You insert a plastic hose through the dipstick tube to the bottom, pump it a few times to create vacuum and voila, most of the oil gets extracted painlessly and without mess. It has gradations for every quart and a handy spout to put it into the recycling drum at the parts store or back into the containers just vacated by the new oil.

In my LC it extracted 5.5qts of used oil leaving only about .5 behind then I removed the oil plug and let the last half quart drain without drama into a shallow open oil pan before moving on to the oil filter to finish the job.

Highly recommend it.
Thank you for posting this! I was wondering if anyone used this method. I’ll be using a Schwaben 6.5 Liter Extractor that’s left behind my Audi A6 TDI ownership days of the last 5 years. I wish the LC250 had an engine top mounted oil filter like my previous car as the oil change literally took all of ten minutes lol.

Lots of good info in this thread, I’m at 18xx miles, all highway commuting at the speed limit and would like to change my oil before 2k miles. I just need to decide on oil brand (something readily available unlike Amsoil that I used in my WRX days and a pain to buy). Lastly, need to stock up on OEM filters and pick up a good wrench filter as well.
 
Thank you for posting this! I was wondering if anyone used this method. I’ll be using a Schwaben 6.5 Liter Extractor that’s left behind my Audi A6 TDI ownership days of the last 5 years. I wish the LC250 had an engine top mounted oil filter like my previous car as the oil change literally took all of ten minutes lol.

Lots of good info in this thread, I’m at 18xx miles, all highway commuting at the speed limit and would like to change my oil before 2k miles. I just need to decide on oil brand (something readily available unlike Amsoil that I used in my WRX days and a pain to buy). Lastly, need to stock up on OEM filters and pick up a good wrench filter as well.
If your dealer is close by, check with them........... I was buying online for OEM oil/filters, but checking with the Stealer, it was just as cheap buying from them.
 
I have used aMityvac for nearly 20 years in my VW TDIS. Definitely interested in trying it out on the LC, although I still need to get under AB’s remove the skid for the filter.
 
Did my first change yesterday at 875 miles, and I kind of wish I would have used ramps like most recommend in here. I managed to squeeze in and get to everything with no major issues, but the ramps or even jack stands would have made it much easier.

I also swapped over my Stahlbus drain valve that was removed from the Tacoma I traded in for the LC. Works great with a new crush washer, and it should make the changes easier/less messy in the future. If anyone is looking for an alternative to the Fumoto valve, I can confirm this fits: stahlbus Oil Drain Valve M12x1.25x12mm, steel (set)
 
This wrench fits like a glove. Not a cheap cast item like I'm used to using before on JDM cars. Also ordered some Rhino MAX ramps for the time being to use on my truck and the wife's Sequoia TRD PRO. As for the filters, ended up ordering a box of 10 from eBay Japan, got here in 3 days, not much difference in price from the local, non made in Japan Toyota ones. Last piece of the puzzle is the oil, got suckered into Amsoil again lol, price was not too bad compared to other stuff. Went with the 0w-20 for Hybrid motors, less than 8.99 a quart.
 
Is the oil pan on the LC aluminum or steel?

I'm asking because I came upon a thread discussing Fumoto valves on Jeep Wranglers. It suggested leaving a thin gun magnet stuck to the outside of the oil pan near the drain plug to hold metal particles that can then flow out through a Fumoto valve if the magnet is pulled off just before opening the valve. Something like this:

 
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Is the oil pan on the LC aluminum or steel?

I'm asking because I came upon a thread discussing Fumoto valves on Jeep Wranglers. It suggested leaving a thin gun magnet stuck to the outside of the oil pan near the drain plug to hold metal particles that can then flow out through a Fumoto valve if the magnet is pulled off just before opening the valve. Something like this:

How does that mount/attach to the oil pan? 🤔
 
How does that mount/attach to the oil pan? 🤔
From what I understand, it’s a really strong magnet coated with thin rubber. So if the oil pan is steel it just sticks. If the pan is aluminum, I guess it would need to be stuck on with adhesive or straps somehow. That would not be ideal and likely would not work long term.

Apparently gun magnets can be purchased with various magnetic strengths. I suppose the stronger the better for this use.

Do you know if the pan is steel or aluminum?
 
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From what I understand, it’s a really strong magnet coated with thin rubber. So if the oil pan is steel it just sticks. If the pan is aluminum, I guess it would need to be stuck on with adhesive or straps somehow. That would not be ideal and likely would not work long term.

Apparently gun magnets can be purchased with various magnetic strengths. I suppose the stronger the better for this use.

Do you know if the pan is steel or aluminum?
I do not know.. 🤔
 
Planning to do my break in oil change this weekend. Never done one myself before. Couple questions,
After draining, should I “flush” with a quart of oil before filling?
What torque setting should I use when replacing the oil pan drain bolt? For the oil filter? Wasn’t able to find clear specs in OM or online
 
Wasting money with a qt flush, nothing to flush out.

Drain plug torque is 30 ft lbs.... replace the gasket.

Oil Filter - 90915-YZZN1
 

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  • Oil and Filter- REPLACEMENT.pdf
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