Suggestion: Complete a break-in oil change on your new Land Cruiser


While I’m sure this is great advice, how practical is it. For me I average 2k miles a month for work (am I to change the oil every 2.5 months?). As soon as I get mines I’m going to put about 400 miles on it immediately because I’m buying it out of state and driving home. Additionally, I live in Atlanta metro area, hard break stops is almost unavoidable with the traffic and the way people drive around here.
 
Great post! I’ve summarized all his points with a couple considerations related to our new and arriving Lanc Cruisers:

First 200 miles
  • avoid sudden stops & hard braking

First 500 miles
  • no towing

First 1000 miles
  • avoid hard acceleration
  • avoid long periods of low gear
  • avoid very high speeds on highway > 70
  • avoid long long highway trips of constant speed

Day of delivery
  • Do a thorough visual inspection- reports on here of port-caused dents (especially roofs)

General new car care
  • fill tires to pressure on door sill sticker (many coming over-filled from factory)
  • Do a 1000 miles oil change (clear manufacturing debris) then again at 5000 miles and every 5000 after
  • Don’t overfill gas tank (unfortunately 17.9 gallons in new LC)
The only thing I would add........ lug nut torque verification.
 

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One thing to keep in mind for some folks: I've run across a few dealers that offer a "Lifetime Warranty" on new (and some used) vehicles they sell. Covers engine, transmission, 2WD and 4WD for as long as you own the vehicle. Sounds great but the big caveat is that you must follow Toyota recommended service and maintenance schedules.

My guess is that this is really a play to keep people coming back to the dealer for expensive service long after the free stuff is complete. The big question is whether "self-service" counts and what documentation you'd need to supply to prove that you had actually followed the maintenance schedule. Would receipts for oil and a filter every 10K miles suffice to prove that you'd actually changed the oil or do they need documentation from a shop? Who knows?

I'm planning on doing my own oil changes for the 5K, 15K, etc. interval and not worry about trying to prove anything to Toyota. I figure, in the long run, I'll save myself enough in labor to pay for another engine at 200K if I need to.
The lifetime powertrain warranty is probably the best thing out there for people that actually do preventive maintenance. All that's required are the receipts for an oil change or receipts for oil and oil filters along with a log with mileage and dates of when the oil was changed.

So the only thing I'll be doing different is keeping the receipts and making sure I actually enter it into the log, that I currently keep on my diagnostic computer, when I do the oil reset. The computer generates a work order as if you were in a shop getting paid for it.
 
I love the Car Care Nut. I will just mention that with our Hyundai Tucson, PHEV 2024, the lead tech said the vehicle comes with a special oil from the factory that they want in the engine to help with long term reliability. Certain additives that should not be removed until 5K miles.
 
Also, does anyone know what size the drain plug is on the new LC? I'll be looking to replace it with a Fumoto or ValvoMax drain plug. I think historically, they were 12mm - 1.25.
Didnt know these existed. Now I want one too
 
Haha nice good call. We look forward to the results!
From another thread:
Found in another thread this is the engine model the LC uses.
Thread '2024 Land Cruiser Engine'
2024 Land Cruiser Engine

Based on my search of other Toyotas that use that engine and checking the Fumoto website, it looks like the LC would use the F103N or one of the F133 models. F133 with the long nipple is out of stock so I’m gonna go with the F103N.

 
The lifetime powertrain warranty is probably the best thing out there for people that actually do preventive maintenance. All that's required are the receipts for an oil change or receipts for oil and oil filters along with a log with mileage and dates of when the oil was changed.

So the only thing I'll be doing different is keeping the receipts and making sure I actually enter it into the log, that I currently keep on my diagnostic computer, when I do the oil reset. The computer generates a work order as if you were in a shop getting paid for it.
When you say "diagnostic computer", do you mean something other than a laptop you have in your garage or is it a specialized piece of equipment? For example, I have a laptop I keep in my garage that I use on my 200 series that I can hook up to the OBD port and run TIS. If it's just a standard laptop, are you using a certain app to generate the "work order"?
 
I don't but, the Taco is so I took a chance. Another 100 miles till the 1st oil chg (1K) and I'll find out.....lol
I agree on "taking a chance". My 13 year old 200 series also uses that size and it just makes financial sense for a manufacturer to use the same size across the board wherever possible on things that every vehicle they manufacture has, like an oil drain plug. Keeps inventory simple.
 
One thing I was thinking about doing is draining the oil almost immediately and using a magnetic drain plug until the first "real" oil change to try and capture any metal debris left over from manufacturing. Then swap it out with the Fumoto. Any thoughts?

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When you say "diagnostic computer", do you mean something other than a laptop you have in your garage or is it a specialized piece of equipment? For example, I have a laptop I keep in my garage that I use on my 200 series that I can hook up to the OBD port and run TIS. If it's just a standard laptop, are you using a certain app to generate the "work order"?
It's an AUTEL dianostic tablet, specifically made for repair, work spanning almost all makes of vehicles. It has several apps for running/tracking in a repair shop to include a borescope attachment and oscilloscope etc..... While TIS is the best for Toyota, it's expensive for one car.
 
One thing I was thinking about doing is draining the oil almost immediately and using a magnetic drain plug until the first "real" oil change to try and capture any metal debris left over from manufacturing. Then swap it out with the Fumoto. Any thoughts?

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That sounds like a good idea.
 
One thing I was thinking about doing is draining the oil almost immediately and using a magnetic drain plug until the first "real" oil change to try and capture any metal debris left over from manufacturing. Then swap it out with the Fumoto. Any thoughts?

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Good idea but it will only work if the material is magnetic
 
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