Suggestion: Complete a break-in oil change on your new Land Cruiser

One thing I was thinking about doing is draining the oil almost immediately and using a magnetic drain plug until the first "real" oil change to try and capture any metal debris left over from manufacturing. Then swap it out with the Fumoto. Any thoughts?

View attachment 6134
Are we supposed to use a crush washer on the oil drain plug???
 
Hi all, I really appreciate all the great information in this thread.

I’m at about 750 miles and want to get my oil changed. I only own Toyotas and usually get maintenance done at local Nor Cal Toyota dealerships, but I don’t have super high confidence in the work quality.

Is there a high risk of stripping the skid plate bolts? It was mentioned earlier in this thread.
 
Hi all, I really appreciate all the great information in this thread.

I’m at about 750 miles and want to get my oil changed. I only own Toyotas and usually get maintenance done at local Nor Cal Toyota dealerships, but I don’t have super high confidence in the work quality.

Is there a high risk of stripping the skid plate bolts? It was mentioned earlier in this thread.
By the dealer, probably not. By you, probably not. Not paying attention to what you're doing, doesn't matter who's doing it...... odds are good.
 
YES!!!!! New one every time!
Toyota doesn’t really use the thick Al crush washer like e.g. Porsche. Their oil drain plug washers (they call them gaskets) have a thin core of Al and they are coated with a blue almost fabric material. I’ve always used them on Toyota oil changes. They are about $1 each. You can get them at your local Toyota dealer or have Amazon deliver and contribute to Jeff Bezo’s latest yacht expense.
 
I scheduled my first oil change for one month from the day I took delivery (will be about 1,000 miles based on my daily driving habits) while I was at the dealership signing papers. Salesman looked at me weird lol. I've always done this for new vehicles I've purchased.
 
Toyota doesn’t really use the thick Al crush washer like e.g. Porsche. Their oil drain plug washers (they call them gaskets) have a thin core of Al and they are coated with a blue almost fabric material. I’ve always used them on Toyota oil changes. They are about $1 each. You can get them at your local Toyota dealer or have Amazon deliver and contribute to Jeff Bezo’s latest yacht expense.
Here’s a picture of the gaskets hope it attaches.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1759.jpeg
    IMG_1759.jpeg
    232.1 KB · Views: 164
Here’s a picture of the gaskets hope it attaches.
I did my first oil change yesterday at 900 miles with Mobil 1 and the 90915-yzzn1 filter bought at Walmart. The oil was very clean. As mentioned in another post it was easy peezy, I did not use ramps just slid under and did it. Picture attached of filter from factory. Really no tricks everything is right there. On any car that I can avoid Jack stands or ramps I do, fast and safe.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1758.jpeg
    IMG_1758.jpeg
    231.3 KB · Views: 140
  • IMG_1757.jpeg
    IMG_1757.jpeg
    478.1 KB · Views: 134
  • IMG_1756.jpeg
    IMG_1756.jpeg
    519.2 KB · Views: 151
What about a six month change for low mileage vehicles? Is that too cautious?
 
Hi all, I really appreciate all the great information in this thread.

I’m at about 750 miles and want to get my oil changed. I only own Toyotas and usually get maintenance done at local Nor Cal Toyota dealerships, but I don’t have super high confidence in the work quality.

Is there a high risk of stripping the skid plate bolts? It was mentioned earlier in this thread.
The stealership stripped a couple bolts on my friends 4runner skid plate on his first oil change. So yes, there is a high risk.

Drop the skid plates, yourself, and take it to them for the oil change. All that’s left is the risk of them not using a new crush washer. 🤣🤣🤣
 
The stealership stripped a couple bolts on my friends 4runner skid plate on his first oil change. So yes, there is a high risk.

Drop the skid plates, yourself, and take it to them for the oil change. All that’s left is the risk of them not using a new crush washer. 🤣🤣🤣
What about those of us who live in an environment where that just isn't possible (e.g. no off-street parking available)?
 
Toyota doesn’t really use the thick Al crush washer like e.g. Porsche. Their oil drain plug washers (they call them gaskets) have a thin core of Al and they are coated with a blue almost fabric material. I’ve always used them on Toyota oil changes. They are about $1 each. You can get them at your local Toyota dealer or have Amazon deliver and contribute to Jeff Bezo’s latest yacht expense.
Even this newer style gasket should be replaced every oil change.
 
1/4 turn before it snaps.
I used an independent BMW motorcycle mechanic when I lived in Idaho. I was watching him finish up a service on my R1200GS Adventure, Gretchen, and noticed that he didn’t use a torque wrench when tightening up the bolts that hold the brake calipers on. I asked why he didn’t use a torque wrench… he said, “I’ve been doing this for 35 years. I don’t need one”. 😏.

A year later I was putting new tires on Gretchen, so I had to remove the brake calipers.

Can you guess which bolt he installed (next to the new one that I put back in their place)?

Buy a torque wrench. Even if at Horrible Freight…
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3647.jpeg
    IMG_3647.jpeg
    202.7 KB · Views: 131
Last edited:
What about a six month change for low mileage vehicles? Is that too cautious?
No. Do it. Every 5,000 miles, or six months. So says The Car Care Nut, and The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube. Oil is CHEAP. Engines aren’t.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Don
Yepper on my Taco, they notified me to bring it in for 5K service, implied it was for an oil change/service....... but the shop report said different. So I changed my oil when I got home, took it in at 10K for oil/service, changed my oil at 15K, then took it in for service, at 20K took it in for oil/service. Since then it's been my party.......LOL
Do you use the same oil as the dealer? Possibly old school, but still a bit leery about switching brands/formulations of oil.
 
Do you use the same oil as the dealer? Possibly old school, but still a bit leery about switching brands/formulations of oil.
I tried to buy two boxes (6 quarts each) of Toyota labeled 0W-20 oil with the two Toyota oil filters and two crush washers before I drove off from the dealer when I picked up Miss Daisy to bring her to her forever home. The guy at the parts counter said that don’t stock Toyota motor oil. Only Mobil 1, for $9+ a quart. I told them I could buy it at Costco for ~$5 a quart…

The look on his face… 🤭
 
Last edited:
Hi all, I really appreciate all the great information in this thread.

I’m at about 750 miles and want to get my oil changed. I only own Toyotas and usually get maintenance done at local Nor Cal Toyota dealerships, but I don’t have super high confidence in the work quality.

Is there a high risk of stripping the skid plate bolts? It was mentioned earlier in this thread.
I’m going to help a buddy replace his son’s Honda civic skid plate this weekend because the place that changed his oil didn’t put it back on properly and it is now damaged and hangs down. All depends on who works on it that day and if they are paying attention or in a hurry. I can change my oil at home faster than having to wait to have it done and I know it’s been done properly so I just take care of it. Kind of enjoyable once you have a routine and from what I see with pictures and reports on the LC (still waiting on mine 🤨) Toyota designed these well to make it easy to do ourselves.
 
When I picked up my LC I walked over to service and asked for crush washers. He open his drawer and handed me about 12 at no charge (was told to do this via this forum).
 
Back
Top