Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

I use two ramps. They sure make it easier for my old body to get under there, which also makes it easier to look around at the undercarriage.
Under both front wheels? Or both on one side?

I see ramps available with about a 2.5” rise, and others with about 6” rise. Not sure the 2.5” would do much, but I guess they would minimize retained oil caused by the tilt.
 
Where are the ones that we buy from the dealership made?
I think Toyota has a couple of countries that make their filters, the country of manufacture is always printed on the box, if I remember correctly the case I purchased from the parts counter state "Thailand". The carCareNut guy did a video on knock off filters. He said many knock offs state they were made in "Japan", the color on the box was slightly off and the print was slightly off.
 
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Under both front wheels? Or both on one side?

I see ramps available with about a 2.5” rise, and others with about 6” rise. Not sure the 2.5” would do much, but I guess they would minimize retained oil caused by the tilt.
I would use one ramp under each wheel the first time you do it, so it will be easier maneuvering for you. Horrible Freight has steel ones. I have those in Florida. I bought some plastic ones in NC at AutoZone. Both work very well. The steel ones might be a skosh taller. Either will do.

I’m not OCD enough anymore to worry about an ounce of motor oil being retained in the pan. If you leave it overnight, oil will still be finding its way out of other nooks and crannies from within your engine. So I use both. Just makes it easier.

With the Fumoto valve, you don’t need a torque wrench to do an oil change to properly torque the drain bolt. (Yes, I’m OCD about that). After you remove your drain plug, remove the crush washer that will probably be stuck to the oil pan. Small pick or screwdriver will help. Clean off the hole, put the valve with the supplied washer in the drain hole and firmly hand tighten it. Then use your trusty crescent wrench on the valve body, and tighten it 1/8 of a turn. Presto. Your done. BUT… Before installing it, look at it, examine it, and figure out how to open and close it. And put the little black safety lock on it. It’s easy peasy. Really. Having one of these, and ramps, makes it so dang easy to do your own oil change. I can’t believe I waited until I was 67 to buy ramps, and am very glad that the Fumoto is up high and safe from being ripped off, even WITHOUT the FE skid plate installed.
 
If anyone is interested in a magnetic drain plug that is good quality and a direct replacement. It uses the stock crush washer. Also filter mag makes a oil filter magnet that fits the small oil filter. Many of the Amazon or online drain plugs are aluminum and not very durable.

This is information only, not intended to start a debate on magnetic drain plugs and filter magnets. Some people use the oil drain valve, some people use the stock drain plug, some people use a magnetic drain plug. This is personal preference. There is a lot of cheap China replicas out there and makes it difficult to find quality aftermarket parts.


I like these too. I have run the gold plug and dimple plugs in all my cars without any issues. In the oil pan, transmission case etc.

The real question is if I want to do a magnetic drain plug in this car or a valve.

Is that plug you posted the correct thread specs?
 
Thanks, @ultane for that info. But from what you said, I can't tell if you're suggesting to use ramps for both front wheels, or both left wheels.
I’m sorry. BOTH front wheels. At least for the first time you do it, as you will have more room to work. Once you see the oil pan drain plug, you can decide if you are going to get OCD about an extra ounce of oil in the pan, that might come out if you are only up on one ramp under your front drivers side wheel.

Have fun!
 
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