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Wow that's amazing. I'm so glad we're having this discussion because it's such an unnatural and awkward mechanism.


That's a great idea to remove the white thing. I'll do the same in the near future.


I also put a phone accordion holder thingy Amazon.com

On the black plastic trim part so that I could simply squish it in when I'm not using it and pull it out when I need it.

I could use this accordion phone thingy to remove the black piece of trim when I want to open the hatch from the inside without much trouble.

However, figuring out how to open it manually without tools will be the next challenge.

Also figuring out what I could put on that mechanical opener while also being able to put the plastic trim part back on. Will be interesting to figure out.
The trim covering comes off much easier with each removal, with a plastic trim tool, it was easy to pop off even with the limited space.

If you want a permanent modification, you could remove the lock/latch (4 bolts) remove all the internal plastic coverings and extend the little lever (welding would be required) so that once the external cover trim piece was removed you could use your finger to operate it. The entire mech is surround by plastic shields that could be trimmed once the lever is extended (we're talking less than 1/2").
 
The trim covering comes off much easier with each removal, with a plastic trim tool, it was easy to pop off even with the limited space.

If you want a permanent modification, you could remove the lock/latch (4 bolts) remove all the internal plastic coverings and extend the little lever (welding would be required) so that once the external cover trim piece was removed you could use your finger to operate it. The entire mech is surround by plastic shields that could be trimmed once the lever is extended (we're talking less than 1/2").
I am a hobbyist welder so that might be a solution for me once I have time to take it apart and play with it.

Thanks for all the insight
 
Have you removed the door panels yet? Thinking about customizing the First Edition lettering on the door panels in mine once it comes in when I do some additional sound proofing in the doors so they don't sound so tinny when they close. I was wondering if the small panels that say First Edition are easy to remove.
 
Have you removed the door panels yet? Thinking about customizing the First Edition lettering on the door panels in mine once it comes in when I do some additional sound proofing in the doors so they don't sound so tinny when they close. I was wondering if the small panels that say First Edition are easy to remove.
I've had the Dvr's door panel off, 3 screws..... one behind the trim on the door handle pull, two behind the arm rest trim panel, everything else is Christmas tree fasteners. I didn't pay attention the 1st Ed trim panel as far as easy removal.

I plan on dynomatting all 4 doors this fall, too dang hot right now......LOL
 
The trim covering comes off much easier with each removal, with a plastic trim tool, it was easy to pop off even with the limited space.

If you want a permanent modification, you could remove the lock/latch (4 bolts) remove all the internal plastic coverings and extend the little lever (welding would be required) so that once the external cover trim piece was removed you could use your finger to operate it. The entire mech is surround by plastic shields that could be trimmed once the lever is extended (we're talking less than 1/2").
 

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The trim covering comes off much easier with each removal, with a plastic trim tool, it was easy to pop off even with the limited space.

If you want a permanent modification, you could remove the lock/latch (4 bolts) remove all the internal plastic coverings and extend the little lever (welding would be required) so that once the external cover trim piece was removed you could use your finger to operate it. The entire mech is surround by plastic shields that could be trimmed once the lever is extended (we're talking less than 1/2").
It seems like I'll have to remove the whole tailgate trim to access that white piece you mentioned.

Did you access that white piece with the trim on and just little square removed.

Pic attached
 

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Mine doesn't look like your's..... LOL

I wonder if your's is different due to not having the auto door opener etc.......
 

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The hatch trim is fairly easy to remove, no tools required. Start at the top center piece (above the glass), then the two upper side pieces and for the grand filially the large lower piece. The lower piece .... grapse it at the top center hump and a quick jerk and it'll start coming off, then just work around the edges with quick jerks and it'll come off.

I'm the type that I want to understand how things work, So I'd remove it and figure out what's what. Please take some pictures as I too would like to know how your's is configured....... heck it might be easier to modify for a handle.
 
Lighted Door Sills Mod: Took about 15 minutes, Yellow dot is the wiring plug (passenger side is in the same location) a hook tool is the best tool to unlatch the blanking plug. The Blue christmas tree fastener stayed in when the OEM sills were removed, you will need to remove it before you install the lighted sill (new ones are already mounted in the new sill).

Center Cap Mod: Bought some Center Caps took them apart, painted them with "Ford Dark Shadow Gray" touch up paint.

Relay Box Mod: As always you need extra protected circuits to run Winches, lights, air compressor etc....

Relay 1 - I have used this relay box on several different vehicles and have been very happy with it. I have de-pinned (removed all the normally closed (blue) wires) and re-wired the #1 (40amp) relay ground to have it's own ground vs the built in ground buss.
Relay 2 - Mount made out of 1/16" alum
Relay 3 - Mount installed making sure not to touch the ABS lines
Relay 4 - Relay box installed
Relay 5 - Routing of the Relay box power supply main wire to the 12v Buss bar (installed in front of the air filter box).
Relay 6 - The yellow wire will power a relay that will power a ASSY buss bar (buss bar will be in the cabin). I will hook the yellow wire to one of the unused "key on" fuse blanks.

There is a removable plug to the right of the brake booster almost to the cowl, approx 1/2" in diameter....... it's easily removable and will allow 8, 16 gage wires to pass from the engine bay to the cabin. Harbor Freight gromet kit has the exact grommet to protect the wires......

Horn Mod: I couldn't like the "meep meep" horns, The Toyota premium (08522-60010) sound much louder and better!

Rear Hatch Light Mod: I was in the back and the curtesy lights in the rear hatch would not go off. Removed the rear hatch trim piece and installed a switch in the power side of the existing curtesy light wiring. I super imposed a rough outline of the existing and new wire runs.

Lug Wrench (Metric), not really a Mod but it's hands down the best and most compact lug wrench I've ever owned!
What brand is the lug wrench. Pretty sure I need that.
 
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