🛠️ Member Build Eod Guy's Ride

[clsn43]

Air Compressor Mod: Pic A/C - Viair 485C
A/C1 - Yellow dots are factory bolts/holes
A/C2 - Mounting plate, used some stand-offs under the bolts to make it level
A/C3 - Compressor mounted
A/C4 - Switch is from "CH4X4" (cube size)
A/C5 - Air tank mounted, it's tight but it fits
A/C6 - Chuck, pressure switch installed. I use a small tank, not for air storage volume but to take advantage of an air pressure switch. That way the compressor doesn't run non-stop. I also use a "pressure relief valve" in order to not burst the tank.
A/C 7 - Passenger side Pwr Distro box, corner cover removed showing the main feed and starter cable lugs. At the top of the pic are the ribs that I removed in order to put the extension in.
A/C 8 - Ribs removed
A/C 9 - Paper template of the new buss bar extension
A/C 10 - Stainless Buss Bar extension, 1st bends
A/C 11 - Stainless Buss Bar extension, Finial crimp on to 6 gage wire
A/C 12 - Stainless Buss Bar extension, mounted
A/C 13 - Stainless Buss Bar extension, with OEM cover back in place. You can see the red 6 gage wire along the left side of the PDC, it's routed to the area in front of the air cleaner box
A/C 14 - Circuit Breaker and Aux Buss Bar mount
Under dash 1 - Yellow dots are bolts/screw, Red dots are tabs.
Under dash 2 - Door weather stripping must be pulled away 1st (Yellow dots) then the side panel can be pulled off (yellow dots are approx where the plastic clips are, the Blue dot is a plastic hook that must be inserted 1st when you reassemble.
Under dash 3 - Pull straight out on the switch panel for removal. I spliced into the illumination wire (green wire coming out of the rheostat and actually spliced in where there was room).

Pushed the switch and the air compressor works like it's supposed to! I used a fuse tap in an empty ACCY slot to power the Air Compressor switch (which in turn energizes the relay).

Lighted Door Sills Mod: Took about 15 minutes, Yellow dot is the wiring plug (passenger side is in the same location) a hook tool is the best tool to unlatch the blanking plug. The Blue christmas tree fastener stayed in when the OEM sills were removed, you will need to remove it before you install the lighted sill (new ones are already mounted in the new sill).

Center Cap Mod: Bought some Center Caps took them apart, painted them with "Ford Dark Shadow Gray" touch up paint.

I had a question on your 12V line under the hood. Did you also have to Dremel or remove some material on the cover that slides down over the top? I was looking to add a bluesea terminal fuse similar to your custom battery connection but it looks like I'd have to Dremel a slot for the wire to go through the cover to allow it to poke through. It looks like the cover fits right against the plastic of the fuse box with no room for the wire to run through to outside the box down that channel. Thanks!

 

[Trailman]

@EOD Guy, what’s the status of the fuel tank you ordered? That’s my biggest complaint with this vehicle

 

[EOD Guy]

I had a question on your 12V line under the hood. Did you also have to Dremel or remove some material on the cover that slides down over the top? I was looking to add a bluesea terminal fuse similar to your custom battery connection but it looks like I'd have to Dremel a slot for the wire to go through the cover to allow it to poke through. It looks like the cover fits right against the plastic of the fuse box with no room for the wire to run through to outside the box down that channel. Thanks!

Yes, I had to use a die grinder (air powered large Dremel) to hog out the ribs in the corner piece to allow the wire to exit the box. It exits level then turns 90 degrees downward and It looks factory.....LOL

Post#1, "Air compressor 8.jpg" above

 

[EOD Guy]

@EOD Guy, what’s the status of the fuel tank you ordered? That’s my biggest complaint with this vehicle

On a boat somewhere, I have paid for it, but it hasn't arrived yet, like other things they probably had to pull one off the Lexus assembly line.

 

[Winchester44]

On a boat somewhere, I have paid for it, but it hasn't arrived yet, like other things they probably had to pull one off the Lexus assembly line.

Can't want to see!

 

[EOD Guy]

Can't want to see!

The tank and fuel lines have arrived, now waiting on some mounts that may or may not be needed. It'll probably be after the new year before this project can be completed.

 

[Winchester44]

Well best of luck to you good sir!

 

[jay3253]

Do you have a diagram or design for the air compressor mount? Have you got a list of parts you used or places you can buy some of these things? If you have an Amazon store I would buy from it so you could get some pay.

 

[EOD Guy]

Do you have a diagram or design for the air compressor mount? Have you got a list of parts you used or places you can buy some of these things? If you have an Amazon store I would buy from it so you could get some pay.

I do not have exact plans for the mount...... But If you can drill a hole you can make the platform. Everything is flat, no fancy fabrication required. I think I used scrap 1/8" aluminum plate.

Start by making a square cardboard template (not corrugated box card board, but cereal box carboard) that takes up the entire area between the Fuse box and the computers (doesn't have to be exact as you trim it to size).

Using a straight edge resting on the highest surface just in front of the fuse box, (two bolt holes surface (3 & 4)) stack washers up on the lower surface until they reach the bottom of the straight edge. Wrap tape around the washers to make them one unit. Repeat for the single bolt hole surface (5).

Place the washer stacks over the respective holes and place the cardboard template over all 5 holes etc........ Use a pointed tool to poke a hole in the template for one of the far right bolt holes (1) and secure it with a metric M6 bolt. Adjust the template so it is square in the space, poke the 2nd hole (2) and secure it with a 2nd M6 bolt. (I use metric furniture bolts available on Amazon)

I cut the head off a M6 bolt, used a drill to sharpen the bolt to a point and threaded it into one of the washer stack holes, placed the washer stack over the M6 bolt securing it into place, with the pointed tip protruding from the washer stack about 1/16", I poked a hole in the template. I then removed the cut-off M6 bolt and threaded it into the next hole, poked the hole etc.......... Use the template to transfer the bolt centers to your material and drill your holes.

The reason I have the little piece bolted to the far right holes of the platform is the scrap piece of Alum wasn't big enough to make it one piece. I wanted it to be one piece ...........

In the top L/H of the platform the computer mount gets in the way, so I just cut a small slot to clear it.

Total fab time was less than an hour.