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[Ed1]

Rear Hatch Light Mod: I was in the back today and the curtesy lights in the rear hatch would not go off. Removed the rear hatch trim piece and installed a switch in the power side of the existing curtesy wiring.

Great job! How did you identify the correct existing wire to tap into? Which switch wires and how did you connect them? Can this be done without removing the entire rear door plastic panel - maybe just opening the small rectangular piece around the switches?

There’s no way to turn these courtesy lights off without modifying the factory setup, right?

 

[EOD Guy]

After the trim panel was removed, the wires for the lights were easily identified. Toyota typically uses white/blk as the color for ground, I cut the red wire and spliced in two new wires back to the new switch. There is no way to do this without removing the trim panel. The only interesting part, was reconnecting the lights (still snapped in the trim piece) to the body harness with one hand holding up the panel and the other hand hooking the connectors back together.

I think they are supposed to turn off after 20 minutes, but mine were on for at least an hour an I decided to do the switch.

 

[Ed1]

Too bad there is no master interior light shut-off. I’ve had the rear open for hours and those lights never shut off.

How did you connect the switch wires to the red - twist wire nuts or something fancier? And which of the colored switch wires did you use? I found the same switch online. You used the “momentary” one, not the latching type, right?

 

[Teebo]

This looks pretty amazing. Nice work.

 

[EOD Guy]

Too bad there is no master interior light shut-off. I’ve had the rear open for hours and those lights never shut off.

How did you connect the switch wires to the red - twist wire nuts or something fancier? And which of the colored switch wires did you use? I found the same switch online. You used the “momentary” one, not the latching type, right?

I started using these about a year ago....... They make different ones for different wire gages. You'll need a heat gun as well. A lighter will work, but if you're not careful you'll melt the heat shrink right off (don't ask how I know this)

Use the latching type switch!

 

[chris_in_phx]

Its really cool that you know how to do all this. I’m learning so thanks for sharing.

 

[Teebo]

Those connectors rock. I can't go back to other types after using those. Easy and durable.

 

[ultane]

I started using these about a year ago....... They make different ones for different wire gages. You'll need a heat gun as well. A lighter will work, but if you're not careful you'll melt the heat shrink right off (don't ask how I know this)

Use the latching type switch!

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I wish I had your skills… even half of your skills…

 

[EOD Guy]

I wish I had your skills… even half of your skills…

Being a Master Bomb Tech for 38 years helps alot........LOL

 

[BigMF]

If you survived 38 years as a bomb tech you MUST have been careful.

 

[CruiserConundrum]

This guy mods

 

[DctrEvil]

Rear Hatch Light Mod: I was in the back and the curtesy lights in the rear hatch would not go off. Removed the rear hatch trim piece and installed a switch in the power side of the existing curtesy wiring. I super imposed a rough outline of the existing and new wire

Is the rear hatch light only a First Edition thing? My premium package doesn’t have a light and that would be handy! Wonder if it could be added? Is this where it would be?

 

[EOD Guy]

Is the rear hatch light only a First Edition thing? My premium package doesn’t have a light and that would be handy! Wonder if it could be added? Is this where it would be?

That's the access panel for the manual unlock. There are two lights, wired together (one on each side) They appear to be "sandwitch" mounted...... Bezel that passes through the panel and a locking square that locks it in place. (I never took it apart).

If you don't need OEM "superbrightleds.com" has a good selection of surface mount LED lights.

You have power at the closer switch so that shouldn't be an issue. If you put in a switch Like I did (blue lighted circle), the wiring would be super simple.

 

[Valsmere]

Outstanding work, thank you for sharing!

 

[Nick]

If you survived 38 years as a bomb tech you MUST have been careful.

You only get 1 oops. He never used his.

 

[EOD Guy]

You only get 1 oops. He never used his.

Yepper but you get a couple of "Pucker Factor 10"

 

[Nick]

Yepper but you get a couple of "Pucker Factor 10"

Mine would've been off the charts and anxiety would've gave me a coronary at a very young age. Thank you for your service!

 

[mountaindesert]

That's the access panel for the manual unlock. There are two lights, wired together (one on each side) They appear to be "sandwitch" mounted...... Bezel that passes through the panel and a locking square that locks it in place. (I never took it apart).

If you don't need OEM "superbrightleds.com" has a good selection of surface mount LED lights.

You have power at the closer switch so that shouldn't be an issue. If you put in a switch Like I did (blue lighted circle), the wiring would be super simple.

Nice. I removed that piece as well on my 58. I wanted to make the hatch openable from the inside.

Have you figured out how to do that yet?

I was hoping to make something like a switch or something that I could open the hatch from the inside when I'm camping.

 

[EOD Guy]

I'm sure it could be done fairly easily........... but using the key fob requires no modifications......

 

[JoeDirt]

Being a Master Bomb Tech for 38 years helps alot........LOL

Well “EOD” doesn’t stand for “Every Ordinary Dude”….