Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

I use a Milwaukee power ratchet and the skid plate is on and off in seconds. Use standard hand tools for the other things.

Thanks! This is what I'm looking for.
 
Why do this yourself, when the oil changes are covered by TOYOTA?
As mentioned the 10 and 20K are covered. Many times its easier for me to DIY instead of making an appointment during my work hours and taking time off. Also, I don't trust 10K intervals for a turbocharged engine. I don't do every oil change myself, just some of them.
 
Just did my first oil change at 1700kms (little over 1000 of your miles). First time I've ever changed oil with 0W-20 and it went everywhere due to the force it's coming out. Pure water! Now I know but I think I'm going to get the Fumoto for my next change. Definitely nipple version with the hose so I can route it right to my oil catch basin.
 
Just did my first oil change at 1700kms (little over 1000 of your miles). First time I've ever changed oil with 0W-20 and it went everywhere due to the force it's coming out. Pure water! Now I know but I think I'm going to get the Fumoto for my next change. Definitely nipple version with the hose so I can route it right to my oil catch basin.

Would it make a difference if the oil cap is on or off? Any other suggestions out there to minimize the mess?
 
Would it make a difference if the oil cap is on or off? Any other suggestions out there to minimize the mess?
That's a good question. I had mine on at the time I was draining. You'd think that'd be slower. Engine was warm but not super hot.
 
I use this to avoid the mess:

1000038843.jpg

I bought it a while ago to allow oil change from the top only for my BMW and Mercedes roadster. You insert a plastic hose through the dipstick tube to the bottom, pump it a few times to create vacuum and voila, most of the oil gets extracted painlessly and without mess. It has gradations for every quart and a handy spout to put it into the recycling drum at the parts store or back into the containers just vacated by the new oil.

In my LC it extracted 5.5qts of used oil leaving only about .5 behind then I removed the oil plug and let the last half quart drain without drama into a shallow open oil pan before moving on to the oil filter to finish the job.

Highly recommend it.
 
Sorry if it was already discussed in this 17 pages long thread, but do you add these oil changes to carfax or something like that? How does this affect resale value? Will dealerships give the same trade in value for a vehicle serviced in official service vs by me (or by me claiming that I was servicing it, but in reality burning oil for 60k miles straight)?
 
Sorry if it was already discussed in this 17 pages long thread, but do you add these oil changes to carfax or something like that? How does this affect resale value? Will dealerships give the same trade in value for a vehicle serviced in official service vs by me (or by me claiming that I was servicing it, but in reality burning oil for 60k miles straight)?
I have never inquired about oil changes nor has any dealership ever offered up oil change history when buying a vehicle.

You have to maintain meticulous records in order to maintain your powertrain warranty! of course Toyota service records are iron clad, but if you have receipts for the oil/filters and a detailed log, they have to honor it as well.
 
Sorry if it was already discussed in this 17 pages long thread, but do you add these oil changes to carfax or something like that? How does this affect resale value? Will dealerships give the same trade in value for a vehicle serviced in official service vs by me (or by me claiming that I was servicing it, but in reality burning oil for 60k miles straight)?
You can log them on the Toyota website. There is a vehicle dashboard there and under service history you can add self reported items.

Screenshot 2024-10-18 at 8.32.27 AM.png
 
For those who had issues with splashing oil from the drain... I used a slightly cut down 5 gal home depot bucket (maybe 1-2"). LC up on leveling ramp on drivers side. The bucket is close enough, and big enough, to catch all the oil with no spills. I was surprised at how thin the oil was when it came out. If you had a taller ramp, I doubt you'd even need to cut the bucket down at all.
 
I use this to avoid the mess:

View attachment 14979
I bought it a while ago to allow oil change from the top only for my BMW and Mercedes roadster. You insert a plastic hose through the dipstick tube to the bottom, pump it a few times to create vacuum and voila, most of the oil gets extracted painlessly and without mess. It has gradations for every quart and a handy spout to put it into the recycling drum at the parts store or back into the containers just vacated by the new oil.

In my LC it extracted 5.5qts of used oil leaving only about .5 behind then I removed the oil plug and let the last half quart drain without drama into a shallow open oil pan before moving on to the oil filter to finish the job.

Highly recommend it.
Looks like this one at West Marine. On sale too.

 
The CarCareGuy did a video on Toyota parts OEM vs knock offs. Toyota parts are always labeled with the country of manufacture, and they do extensive QC on them. Knock offs are mostly labeled "Made in Japan" and the print quality on the label is just a little off, the box quality colors and printing are also just a little off. I'd say if they came from the dealer's parts counter, you're good.
Carcareguy has become our YouTube God lol
 
I finally did a break-in oil change at 1400 miles.
Glad I did. Oil was not as clear and new looking as I was led to believe from looking at the dipstick. Quite dark brown and in the bottom of the pan were definite metal chips - not tons but enough that I am glad they are gone.

I bought oil and filter at the dealer and then took it to my local quick oil change place - but they said they could not do it since the vehicle is not yet in their computer and their insurance will not allow them to work on vehicles not listed. Oh well - decided to do it myself!

I did not pay attention to the splashing problem noted in earlier posts... my gosh that oil was thin and came gushing out - not like the old days of 20-50W! The quart or so that missed the pan made quite a mess on the driveway which took an extra effort to clean up. DIYers - pay attention to the suggestions to tame the gusher!

Here is a picture showing the metal flakes in the bottom of the pan with a few circled.

20241021_154234-EDIT.jpg
 
I finally did a break-in oil change at 1400 miles.
Glad I did. Oil was not as clear and new looking as I was led to believe from looking at the dipstick. Quite dark brown and in the bottom of the pan were definite metal chips - not tons but enough that I am glad they are gone.

I bought oil and filter at the dealer and then took it to my local quick oil change place - but they said they could not do it since the vehicle is not yet in their computer and their insurance will not allow them to work on vehicles not listed. Oh well - decided to do it myself!

I did not pay attention to the splashing problem noted in earlier posts... my gosh that oil was thin and came gushing out - not like the old days of 20-50W! The quart or so that missed the pan made quite a mess on the driveway which took an extra effort to clean up. DIYers - pay attention to the suggestions to tame the gusher!

Here is a picture showing the metal flakes in the bottom of the pan with a few circled.

View attachment 15449
“Tame the gusher”
 
I’ll be doing my first change this weekend. Going with AMS oil 0-20 Signature. That little 4 Banger needs all the love we can give it. They do make a hybrid oil, AMS did not make a specific recomendation for the LC. It should be coming soon.
Nice, have you done it? Did you feel your engine cooler in anyway? Does it feel any dofferent?
 
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