Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

1717096989214.png
 
My dealer had these two filters as replacements. Anyone knows the difference? Mine is the 2.8 Turbo Diesel Engine.
 
What's the difference between the 90915-YZZD1 and the 90915-YZZN1 ?
 
I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473

I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473
Hey Bud

Off topic question but have you noticed the rear tabs on the spoiler connected to rear window are not clipped in? I noticed mine weren’t making the spoiler wiggle a bit but was wondering if that was normal. I checked another LC at the dealership and that one was also not clipped in all the way which kinda doesn’t make sense. Wondering if it’s normal or not.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0794.jpeg
    IMG_0794.jpeg
    197.3 KB · Views: 307
Last edited:
Yea, it looks like it's related to the rear defroster element. If you open the glass, you'll see all the heating lines coming out of that junction. For referece, I took a look at my old Highlander and it uses a similar design approach. I don't think it's anything to worry about.
 
Very helpful, these photos and information about the oil change. Even at age 67, I think I could roll mine up on the ramps and get her done!! Guessing the ground clearance isn’t sufficient to do the oil change without ramps?!! Again, thanks for your generosity in sharing these photos. Dr. M
67? Piece of cake! Still doing, and have always done my own oil changes, at age 82... The biggest challenge is getting on/off the creeper. :(
 
The CarCareGuy did a video on Toyota parts OEM vs knock offs. Toyota parts are always labeled with the country of manufacture, and they do extensive QC on them. Knock offs are mostly labeled "Made in Japan" and the print quality on the label is just a little off, the box quality colors and printing are also just a little off. I'd say if they came from the dealer's parts counter, you're good.
 
I’ll be doing my first change this weekend. Going with AMS oil 0-20 Signature. That little 4 Banger needs all the love we can give it. They do make a hybrid oil, AMS did not make a specific recomendation for the LC. It should be coming soon.
 
Hi @pmurphy -- for the unititiated here, is AMS superior to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic from Costco? I've used it for a long time, but I must admit, I've never looked into it in detail.
 
I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473
Can I use 90915-YZZD1 for the 2024 LC ? Thanks
 
I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473
I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473
Can I use oil filter 90915-YZZD1 for the 2024 LC ? Thanks
 
Hopefully this is not too controversial, but Fram makes a filter that is for the LC. It’s a 4967. I personally wouldn’t use the lower quality 4967 Frams, but the higher quality 4967 seems to get good reviews.
 
Great info. Change mine last week and the easiest oil change. The photos were on the money. Thanks. I took a sample of the oil and and considering having it analyzed.
 
The filter I pulled off was 90915-10009. The filter that Toyota service dept gave me and I put on is 90915-YZZN1. They looked identical and fit so I think they are interchangeable. There seem to be a few oil filters out there that are exactly the same with different part numbers.
Found this on ToyotaNation.com:

OilFilter.png
 
Let me add another.... issue... into oil filters! (Ie...) Turbo vs non-Turbo

I have a turbo Subaru Forester... Now... I was told at that time... my oil filter would be different from the regular engine...so needed to be sure to get the correct filter.... as i did my own oil changes at times... Why... I asked... like your thinking now.

Because there are different bypass failure pressures... ??? Yea... I know

Anyway... I was told... if your oil filter pressure on a turbo engine reached a pressure that prevented oil flow...a valve would pop on the filter and open and thus allow oil to still flow thru the filter ... thus preventing oil starved turbos? I guess dirty oil is better than no oil?

Anyway... This guys whole point.... You better buy the right filter if you don't change your oil on time.... (Ie.. Turbo oil filters go into bypass quicker to protect the turbo than non-turbo)... So total ... BS ... or something to consider?

I was thinking... he wanted me to buy Subaru... oil filters.... ?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top