Car is freaking out - is there a reset?

They found nothing wrong with it. They said, I believe, an ABS actuator reported low voltage. The battery did need a boost to get on the tow truck (despite the screen glitching messages). They attribute the malfunction errors to low voltage, however, the errors remained after my boost. They are cleared now.

I highly recommend having a booster in car at all times and knowing how to boost the car. I needed to show the tow truck driver how to boost!!

IMG_6562.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6488.jpeg
    IMG_6488.jpeg
    239 KB · Views: 72
I’ll bet your 12v battery is not performing well and will fail a load test.

Toyota uses crap batteries. This is your opportunity to upgrade to an AGM style battery.
 
Still a bit weird.
How the battery got low to begin with ?
If the battery isn't keep power it should be replaced. A recharge only will make the problem happen again later.
Feels like some charge system isn't working properly...
 
This is your opportunity to upgrade to an AGM style battery.
how do we do that? you mean the traction battery is replaceable?

i have no idea how it got low. i was driving it daily. how else do you put in 8k km in a month! LOL
 
how do we do that? you mean the traction battery is replaceable?

i have no idea how it got low. i was driving it daily. how else do you put in 8k km in a month! LOL
The mechanic referred to the 12v battery being low, not the traction battery.
 
ok - i don't know how the system works entirely re: traction vs. 12v. once i finish this road trip i'll look into it properly. thank-you.
 
ok - i don't know how the system works entirely re: traction vs. 12v. once i finish this road trip i'll look into it properly. thank-you.
No problem. The traction battery is 288 volts. The way it was explained to me, the hybrid system has about 7 computers that run all the various systems. The 12v battery is like a normal car battery, and it's primary function is to bring all the computers online. Once that's done, the traction battery takes over and pretty much runs the show.

This is just speculation but, if you have a bad 12v battery, it might cause a fault in booting up one (or more) of the computers.

A friend of mine had endless problems with his brand new Highlander Hybrid. It wouldn't start and his wife would get stuck unexpectedly. The 12v battery kept going low. He was so angry he wanted to get rid of the car. It was finally discovered that the 12v battery had a tiny crack in it that caused all the problems. Since it was replaced, they've had no problems.
 
how do we do that? you mean the traction battery is replaceable?

i have no idea how it got low. i was driving it daily. how else do you put in 8k km in a month! LOL

Ultimately anything is replaceable, but in this case the 12v battery used for backup starting or in cold weather etc. Most of the vehicle computers still run off of the voltage from that battery, so if it fails the computers will all start to throw codes. Same story in any other car.

Easy enough solution, just put a nice absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery in to replace it. Take measurements of what is currently installed and the terminal layout, note the group size and buy an AGM that matches. Extra credit if the battery tray and terminal cables can accommodate an even larger battery.
 
Got paranoia reading this as I am about to go on a long trip, went out to test the battery and got these results. It’s a smallish battery, only 600 CCA. My 80 uses a 800 CCA one. State of Health at 100% is reassuring.

1724762470962.jpeg
 
I'd recommend getting a jump box, even a small one. Theory is (I'm not positive) when the 12v battery drops below a certain voltage, none of the computers will boot and leave you stranded (no different than any other vehicle) but if you can jump the 12v and get the computers booted, the hybrid battery (AKA Traction battery) will use the DC to DC converter to fully charge the 12V battery (normal way it charges the 12v battery) and allow you to continue on.
 
This is your opportunity to upgrade to an AGM style battery.
I love AGM batteries. But IIRC, AGM batteries require a specific charge voltage, and charge profile, to be properly charged. Unless the Toyota ECM can be programmed to do this, I think an AGM would be a waste of money. It will never be properly and fully charged. YRMV.
 
I'd recommend getting a jump box, even a small one. Theory is (I'm not positive) when the 12v battery drops below a certain voltage, none of the computers will boot and leave you stranded (no different than any other vehicle) but if you can jump the 12v and get the computers booted, the hybrid battery (AKA Traction battery) will use the DC to DC converter to fully charge the 12V battery (normal way it charges the 12v battery) and allow you to continue on.
Do you have any recommended makes or models of ‘jump boxes’ that you would recommend? I recently read that many of them didn’t work as promised, when called upon, to start peoples cars.
 
Do you have any recommended makes or models of ‘jump boxes’ that you would recommend? I recently read that many of them didn’t work as promised, when called upon, to start peoples cars.
I bought this one, no battery, uses super capacitors instead. They claim a partially charged battery (let's say 9v) will charge the capacitors and then will jump start the vehicle, so no second vehicle needed. It will charge up with a Cell phone charger (wall outlet) in a couple hours, and when mine arrived it was at 60% charge, I hooked it to my 12 battery in the LC and it went from 60% to 100% (15v) in about 45 seconds. Kind of spendy, but after the review by the tester guy on U-Tube they are getting harder to obtain. It's about the size of a 70's school lunch box, so easy to store.

1724771807060.png
 
I love AGM batteries. But IIRC, AGM batteries require a specific charge voltage, and charge profile, to be properly charged. Unless the Toyota ECM can be programmed to do this, I think an AGM would be a waste of money. It will never be properly and fully charged. YRMV.

That is true if you’re putting one on a battery charger or battery tender. AGM’s charge faster than a wet cell battery and for longevity if you put one on a trickle charger or battery tender the device needs to be capable of being adjusted to recognize an AGM is being charged.

In car charging off the alternator or in this case an inverter shouldn’t be an issue, plenty of people use AGM’s on vehicles not specifically designed to use them with great results. The AGM in my Tundra is about 13-14 years old and is still going strong.
 
Do you have any recommended makes or models of ‘jump boxes’ that you would recommend?
I bought a 1500 amp one from Canadian Tire. It has really good reviews and it fits tidy in the little lift up panel in the back. I don’t think you need much to bring the computer online and the hybrid battery will charge the 12v.
 
Following this thread. Do not understand batteries or the system of batteries in the LC (need to learn). This may be a dumb question but if the 120V switch is turned to "on" and left in this position accidentally for a long period once vehicle is turned off, could this drain your battery?
 
I don't think so, because that is camp mode and the motor will start automatically. I've been using camp mode - I'm driving coast-to-coast and sometimes use the camp mode for my fridge/starlink. Having said that I did end up with this issue, but at least by design it shouldn't...

edit: if your vehicle is fully turned off then AFAIK that 120V has no power.
 
Following this thread. Do not understand batteries or the system of batteries in the LC (need to learn). This may be a dumb question but if the 120V switch is turned to "on" and left in this position accidentally for a long period once vehicle is turned off, could this drain your battery?
No, once you shut the vehicle off, it kills every thing. As mentioned above you can leave the vehicle running "Camp Mode" but then the ICE will keep the traction battery charged which in tun keep the 12v charged.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top