Could you please tell me how that works?I rebedded the brakes 3 days ago after getting my first squeak after a car wash. Since rebedding the brakes I haven’t had anymore squeaks, but it’s only been three days.
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Could you please tell me how that works?I rebedded the brakes 3 days ago after getting my first squeak after a car wash. Since rebedding the brakes I haven’t had anymore squeaks, but it’s only been three days.
Certainly, here is a description of how I bed brakes. I posted this in another thread related to this brake noise issue.Could you please tell me how that works?
Something to consider is “bedding in” your brake pads. Most mechanics do this when they install new brakes. I’ve done quite a few brake jobs on my cars everything from Porsches to Diesel Trucks. When I bed in brakes I did it by finding an empty long road with no traffic. This requires a road with no stop signs or traffic lights or other cars on the road. It’s the process of getting your vehicle to about 60mph and applying the brakes hard but letting off before you come to a complete stop. The goal is to brake hard until you slow down to about 10 mph. Keep rolling do not stop completely. Then immediately accelerate up to 60mph and do it again and again. After doing this six or seven times in row the brakes will heat up quite a bit. It will transfer brake pad material to the rotors and rotor material onto the pads. After six or seven consecutive hard applications of the brakes like this you want to let them cool off. Drive and let them cool for a bit before coming to a complete stop. Remember this requires a road with no stop signs or traffic lights or other cars on the road. Stopping and holding the brakes while they are this hot (try not to do it) can transfer too much pad material to the rotor in one spot and can cause vibrations later. I hope I explained that correctly.
Hello looks like most LC s do it world wide !!! mine is also squeeling bad in reverse when been sat for a while i,m in the UKDoes anyone else exerience brakes squeel in reverse? Mine seems to do it mostly after it has sat for a while. I only notice it in reverse.
Day four, squeal is back this morning.I rebedded the brakes 3 days ago after getting my first squeak after a car wash. Since rebedding the brakes I haven’t had anymore squeaks, but it’s only been three days.
Indeed, my key suspects are bedding, ability to bed in, brake bias, brake pad rotor quality etc. I wish anyone here posting post service tells us what or how do the pads look like. Do they have shims? And, if folks tried everything, bedding, loaded car bedding etc, we may have to concede that the combination of rotors, pads and brake bias settings induce this frequency. Personally, if this bugged me, I would try an aftermarket higher quality rear rotor set, or pads to start with. However, if the piston pressure is too light, you can glaze or squeal almost any rotor in the universe. I am curious what LC owners with a load, get when backing up. I would suspect a higher piston force and less squealing.It has nothing to do with hybrid breaking as many of the local owners here in the middle east are reporting the same issue with the non-hybrid petrol and diesel variant of the same car.
I heard and read firsthand accounts of tesla owners hit with 8,000 USD bills as their regen ruined rotors and seized one or two pistons. 4 rotors + 2 new callipers, the bill gets ugly. So regen braking never causes rust, it is moisture and oxidization, and yes, this occurs if regen braking has the owner NOT using brakes. Canadian Tesla owners I know, tell me changing the bias Braking vs regen. Because what also happens it when you DO need emergency braking, unused glazed or unbedded rotors, on cold asphalt just double your braking distance on a 5500 lbs or heavier sedan. The rotor capacity to absorb energy is fractional. So if you are a heavy EV owner, never touch or use the brakes to let the mass heat them up, frankly, you are begging for stupid bills. May save some kw/hr but thousands of dollars in repair bills and CO2 manufacturing steel rotors nullifies everything.I wonder if this is happening because the breaks are not used as rigorously thanks to regenerative breaking, which causes surface rust to form on them. This, at least, is a known issue for EVs.
I believe regenerative breaking is not used in reverse, so this may be the reason why the noise mainly occurs while breaking in reverse.
Sooo cool to hear! You guys never mentioned getting a free back up alert sound At least is not the kraa kraa kraa modern equipment uses. What can I say, low piston pressure, gentle pad engagement, perhaps new unbedded rotors etc. But that is indeed pad on rotor frequency squeal.