AUX switches?

Got my CH4x4 "OEM style"switch installed. It's not quite OEM looking. Not quite as matte black as the factory ones, and the LED light bar icon is blue instead of white lettering like the factory switches, but still looks fine. I was able to tap into the dash lighting circuit so the icon lights up when dash lights come on, and then the blue LED above comes on only when the switch is on. Here are some terrible photos, sorry, of the dash with the switch off then on. Then followed with a couple quick photos of the headlights only, then the light bar turned on.... Wow!

Switch OFF
View attachment 21749
Switch turned ON
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Just regular low beams (high beams didn't make much difference once light bar was ON)
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Light Bar ON
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Night photo of front of LC with LED Light bar on. (Sorry for the crappy iPhone reflections)
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It would be ideal to have a relay that allowed me to connect to the high beam circuit, preventing me from having the light bar on by accident while in low beam with an oncoming car, but I don't plan to use it unless off road so its kind of nice having it in an always on circuit for temporary use while setting up camp, etc. (just have to remember not to leave it running for the sake of my battery, when ingnition off)/
Wow. Looks amazing! Thanks for sharing those.
 
It would be ideal to have a relay that allowed me to connect to the high beam circuit, preventing me from having the light bar on by accident while in low beam with an oncoming car, but I don't plan to use it unless off road so its kind of nice having it in an always on circuit for temporary use while setting up camp, etc. (just have to remember not to leave it running for the sake of my battery, when ingnition off)/
I assume you are using the switch to energize a relay that powers the light bar.

You could add a second relay (using the high beam circuit as the trigger) in series with the switch relay to do what you want. The switch and the high beams would both have to be on in order for the light bar to light.

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@EOD Guy Yes, exactly, and powered from the constant power point in the fuse box on the passenger side. You always have great solutions! A little nervous to get into headlight wiring harness and will have to do some research on how to have two relays in series! Thanks!
 
This might help.....
Did you replace the blank next to the tow/haul button yet? I replaced that with my Ditch light switch but I couldn't figure out how to get that last trim clip out on the far right side of that trim just under the MTS knob. I ended up getting the switch wired without getting it out but would be good to know any tips in the future.
 
Got my CH4x4 "OEM style"switch installed. It's not quite OEM looking. Not quite as matte black as the factory ones, and the LED light bar icon is blue instead of white lettering like the factory switches, but still looks fine. I was able to tap into the dash lighting circuit so the icon lights up when dash lights come on, and then the blue LED above comes on only when the switch is on. Here are some terrible photos, sorry, of the dash with the switch off then on. Then followed with a couple quick photos of the headlights only, then the light bar turned on.... Wow!

Switch OFF
View attachment 21749
Switch turned ON
View attachment 21750

Just regular low beams (high beams didn't make much difference once light bar was ON)
View attachment 21751
Light Bar ON
View attachment 21752
Night photo of front of LC with LED Light bar on. (Sorry for the crappy iPhone reflections)
View attachment 21753

It would be ideal to have a relay that allowed me to connect to the high beam circuit, preventing me from having the light bar on by accident while in low beam with an oncoming car, but I don't plan to use it unless off road so its kind of nice having it in an always on circuit for temporary use while setting up camp, etc. (just have to remember not to leave it running for the sake of my battery, when ingnition off)/
That. Is. AMAZING!!!
 
Did you replace the blank next to the tow/haul button yet? I replaced that with my Ditch light switch but I couldn't figure out how to get that last trim clip out on the far right side of that trim just under the MTS knob. I ended up getting the switch wired without getting it out but would be good to know any tips in the future.
You pretty much have to remove the TMS Knob/mount to get the blank out easy. I think I did it the way you did, unfastened it enough to poke out the blank. (that's before I knew how easy it was to remove the shifter panel and MTS panel etc......
 

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    Running Boards 1.JPG
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  • Switch panel 2.jpeg
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You pretty much have to remove the TMS Knob/mount to get the blank out easy. I think I did it the way you did, unfastened it enough to poke out the blank. (that's before I knew how easy it was to remove the shifter panel and MTS panel etc......
any better instruction than the attached for that knob removal? doesn't really address it.
 

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  • INSTRUMENT PANEL SAFETY PAD_ REMOVAL (1).pdf
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Before you go to all that trouble, you might try a couple of butter knives, one each side or top/bottom of the blank (I don't remember where the tabs are) the blanks come out much easier than the switches.

But the Knob panel just snaps in and I thought it was for sure going to break it. Trim panel tool was very helpful but figuring out where to place it to pry was nerve racking.
 
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