What wax to use

[Overtrail Mike]

I had a eye-opening conversation with someone who has been putting pinstripes on cars for the last 42 years.

He indicated most supposedly high-quality waxes contain solvents that over time dull your vehicles finish. These manufacturers do this to sell more product.. This includes one manufacturer that I’ve used for years that starts with an “M”.

According to him, there is only one product on the market he would recommend and that is Turtle Wax.

He has also off-roaded for years in Arizona off-road clubs and noted how many vehicles were scratched more than his after trips. The Turtle Wax forms a barrier to minimize scratches to some degree.

Make sure you read the label to ensure there are no solvents before buying to keep that original shine!

 

[TakaraLC]

Sounds like a conspiracy theory.

By the way, water is a solvent. Pretty strong one as well. Don’t drive when it rains.

 

[Syed117]

I've used collinite for many years and have always liked it.

 

[Altitude]

Nothing wrong with Turtle Wax products. It’s a mainstream high volume chemical company and the products are surely more similar than different versus other products at the same price point, including the “M” one (not sure you meant Mother’s or Meguiar’s but it doesn’t affect the point). Good chance the guy you talked to is a Turtle Wax rep or knows one, or else just has some affinity to that brand.

To me the decision is natural or synthetic, whatever brand. I’ve used 100% carnauba from many brands. It looks great and lasts well but is a pain in the ass to remove. Old school.

Lately I’ve been liking the synthetics. They are absolutely easier to apply and remove. Arguably natural wax looks a little shinier but the synthetics have gained ground. I have Griot’s Poly Gloss and 3M Synthetic Wax Protectant on my 911 intermittently these days. It lives in the garage all the time and I drive it 2-3 times a week so the duty level is low - but both of those products deliver big time for the effort they require. I wax that car once a year at most.

The step people leave out, that has a great payback, is the clay bar. It sounds more intimidating than it is, you spray lubricant on the paint, wipe it with a clay compound or a synthetic alternative, then wipe off the lubricant with a dry cloth. It has an astounding ability to remove oxidation and foreign material buildup, and that is where the smooth “just waxed” feel comes from.

 

[Altitude]

The other thing that has gained ground is clear coats on paint jobs. I’ve had my Tahoe 8 years and have never waxed it (too damn big). It cleans up just fine. It also lives in the garage though, which might be the operative lever.

 

[TakaraLC]

The other thing that has gained ground is clear coats on paint jobs. I’ve had my Tahoe 8 years and have never waxed it (too damn big). It cleans up just fine. It also lives in the garage though, which might be the operative lever.

I think clear coats are not a new thing. But manufacturers started to switch to softer clear coats that are more resistant to superficial scratches like swirl marks. The main drawback of such clear coats is that they can easily be damaged if a wax is applied incorrectly. For example applying an abrasive wax with a disk polisher with too much pressure.

Another thing to keep in mind is that some have clear coats that get very soft when hot (like under the sun). These are supposed to self heal small scratches as the clear coat softens up and flows to fill in minor abrasions. This also means that if you try to wax a hot car, you will remove the clear coat .

 

[NoMe cruiser]

Currently my 4r is scratched to hell from the tree branches down tight trails. I am giving it to my son and want to clean it up. I just tried meguires scratch X on a small portion and it worked great. I always used turtle wax in the past but have done some research and meguires wax gets good reviews so next wax job will be meguires ultimate liquid. Clay bar is great for removing contaminates but it also removes any wax so keep that in mind.

 

[Altitude]

Clay bar is great for removing contaminates but it also removes any wax so keep that in mind.

Good call-out. Clay bar isn’t something you do before you wash the car or to spruce it up before you go on a date. It is a pre-wax step.

 

[KyLandcruiser]

I decided to give the Turtle wax Flex wax a try. It was a bit different from another spray wax I’ve used. The wax had to be wiped off like a traditional liquid wax. I’ll have to wait and see how it lasts.

 

[JoT.]

What chemicals do you avoid with waxing at home ?
How is the at home ceramic coating ?

 

[chris_in_phx]

I use Griots stuff. I have their spray on ceramic wax and their regular wax. Havent offroaded yet so i cant speak to that aspect.

 

[TakaraLC]

What chemicals do you avoid with waxing at home ?
How is the at home ceramic coating ?

I used Meguiar's hybrid ceramic wax that comes in a spray bottle. You spray it on after washing, while the car is still wet, hose it away and dry with a towel. It does not last as long as a true ceramic coats that need to be rubbed in and allowed to cure, but also is much easier to apply.

IMO spray on ceramic waxes are a better in-home option for people who are not experienced with car detailing and do not have dust free working environment. A true ceramic coat application can end up in a disaster if it is botched, and is a pain in the back to remove.

 

[Colorado]

Lately I’ve been liking the synthetics. They are absolutely easier to apply and remove. Arguably natural wax looks a little shinier but the synthetics have gained ground. I have Griot’s Poly Gloss and 3M Synthetic Wax Protectant on my 911 intermittently these days. It lives in the garage all the time and I drive it 2-3 times a week so the duty level is low - but both of those products deliver big time for the effort they require. I wax that car once a year at most.

The step people leave out, that has a great payback, is the clay bar. It sounds more intimidating than it is, you spray lubricant on the paint, wipe it with a clay compound or a synthetic alternative, then wipe off the lubricant with a dry cloth. It has an astounding ability to remove oxidation and foreign material buildup, and that is where the smooth “just waxed” feel comes from.

I agree with you but also agree with the OP in some ways.

I was curiious about the solvents the OP mentioned so I did a little Google research and found a post by a high-plced Meguire's guy. He said car waxes, such as carbuba, are rock hard and need a solvent to turn them into a paste or liquid. When you apply a new coat of wax, that solvent will dissolve any existing wax on your car. Thus, you never "build up" layers of wax. The only reason to apply a second coat would be to cover any places you may have missed in the first coat.

But I don't agree re: Turtle wax. The Turtle waxes I've seen have a small amount of rubbing compound in them. I see no reason to rub grit into clean, non-oxidized paint.

As to synthetics, I totally agree with Altitude. I love the 3M waxes, both the "Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax" (part # 39026) and the "Synthetic Wax Protectant" (part # 39030). They wax on/wax off easily, last a very long time and leave a beautiful and slick, teflon-like finish. IMO, there's nothing better.

Trouble is you can't get it any more, not even on Amazon. The 3M site says those products are now available "for industrial and commercial use only." I'm hoarding my last two bottles.

And I also agree about using clay bars. I buy the Meguiar's Clay Kit and use it once, or maybe twice, a year. It's so fast and easy and you can immediately feel the difference. If you use it on new paint, followed by a hand wax, and then keep at it now and then, the paint will look (and feel) like new years later. I literally have friends and neighbors asking if they can "get on the list" to buy my used cars.

As you can probably tell, I'm retired and detailing our cars is kind of a hobby of mine.

 

[Altitude]

I agree with you but also agree with the OP in some ways.

I was curiious about the solvents the OP mentioned so I did a little Google research and found a post by a high-plced Meguire's guy. He said car waxes, such as carbuba, are rock hard and need a solvent to turn them into a paste or liquid. When you apply a new coat of wax, that solvent will dissolve any existing wax on your car. Thus, you never "build up" layers of wax. The only reason to apply a second coat would be to cover any places you may have missed in the first coat.

But I don't agree re: Turtle wax. The Turtle waxes I've seen have a small amount of rubbing compound in them. I see no reason to rub grit into clean, non-oxidized paint.

As to synthetics, I totally agree with Altitude. I love the 3M waxes, both the "Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax" (part # 39026) and the "Synthetic Wax Protectant" (part # 39030). They wax on/wax off easily, last a very long time and leave a beautiful and slick, teflon-like finish. IMO, there's nothing better.

Trouble is you can't get it any more, not even on Amazon. The 3M site says those products are now available "for industrial and commercial use only." I'm hoarding my last two bottles.

And I also agree about using clay bars. I buy the Meguiar's Clay Kit and use it once, or maybe twice, a year. It's so fast and easy and you can immediately feel the difference. If you use it on new paint, followed by a hand wax, and then keep at it now and then, the paint will look (and feel) like new years later. I literally have friends and neighbors asking if they can "get on the list" to buy my used cars.

As you can probably tell, I'm retired and detailing our cars is kind of a hobby of mine.

Agreed. There are definitely some “wax/polish” products out there. The name sounds harmless enough; I’m sure a lot of people don’t understand what “polish” really is and what it does.

 

[LCOceans]

I agree with you but also agree with the OP in some ways.

I was curiious about the solvents the OP mentioned so I did a little Google research and found a post by a high-plced Meguire's guy. He said car waxes, such as carbuba, are rock hard and need a solvent to turn them into a paste or liquid. When you apply a new coat of wax, that solvent will dissolve any existing wax on your car. Thus, you never "build up" layers of wax. The only reason to apply a second coat would be to cover any places you may have missed in the first coat.

But I don't agree re: Turtle wax. The Turtle waxes I've seen have a small amount of rubbing compound in them. I see no reason to rub grit into clean, non-oxidized paint.

As to synthetics, I totally agree with Altitude. I love the 3M waxes, both the "Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax" (part # 39026) and the "Synthetic Wax Protectant" (part # 39030). They wax on/wax off easily, last a very long time and leave a beautiful and slick, teflon-like finish. IMO, there's nothing better.

Trouble is you can't get it any more, not even on Amazon. The 3M site says those products are now available "for industrial and commercial use only." I'm hoarding my last two bottles.

And I also agree about using clay bars. I buy the Meguiar's Clay Kit and use it once, or maybe twice, a year. It's so fast and easy and you can immediately feel the difference. If you use it on new paint, followed by a hand wax, and then keep at it now and then, the paint will look (and feel) like new years later. I literally have friends and neighbors asking if they can "get on the list" to buy my used cars.

As you can probably tell, I'm retired and detailing our cars is kind of a hobby of mine.

Do you have experience with the 3M Perfect-It show car paste wax? I found that it is available but wanted to see if you have tried it?
Also, the Synthetic Wax Protectant 393030, is that a treatment you use after the 39026 (Liquid car wax), or is it to be used on its own?

 

[lunkerbuster808]

honestly turtle wax hybrid solutions ceramic spray wax under 20 has been the best wax ive used too date its a game changer ...watch u tube reviews.. its unreal for the price and so easy to apply my truck is always better then anyone else

 

[Colorado]

Do you have experience with the 3M Perfect-It show car paste wax? I found that it is available but wanted to see if you have tried it?
Also, the Synthetic Wax Protectant 393030, is that a treatment you use after the 39026 (Liquid car wax), or is it to be used on its own?

I haven't used paste wax of any kind for many, many years.

As to 3M's 39026 vs 39030, each is a stand-alone product. the first is supposed to be a little shinier and the second longer lasting. I've used both and can't tell the difference but 3M posted that clarification on Amazon FAQs about 39030. (I copied and saved 3M's answer if you'd like to see it.)

I recently clay-barred the roof of my LC to use as a test bed for Meguiar's Ultimate wax. Following the package directions, I applied the Meguiar's with the sponge applicator, waited 10 minutes and wiped off the haze with the supplied towel. (It took 10 minutes to apply to the whole roof so I the whole job only took 20 minutes.) It turned out great. The only question is how long it lasts. But from the reviews I've read, it lasts quite a while.

 

[LCMud]

I agree with you but also agree with the OP in some ways.

I was curiious about the solvents the OP mentioned so I did a little Google research and found a post by a high-plced Meguire's guy. He said car waxes, such as carbuba, are rock hard and need a solvent to turn them into a paste or liquid. When you apply a new coat of wax, that solvent will dissolve any existing wax on your car. Thus, you never "build up" layers of wax. The only reason to apply a second coat would be to cover any places you may have missed in the first coat.

But I don't agree re: Turtle wax. The Turtle waxes I've seen have a small amount of rubbing compound in them. I see no reason to rub grit into clean, non-oxidized paint.

As to synthetics, I totally agree with Altitude. I love the 3M waxes, both the "Perfect-It Show Car Liquid Wax" (part # 39026) and the "Synthetic Wax Protectant" (part # 39030). They wax on/wax off easily, last a very long time and leave a beautiful and slick, teflon-like finish. IMO, there's nothing better.

Trouble is you can't get it any more, not even on Amazon. The 3M site says those products are now available "for industrial and commercial use only." I'm hoarding my last two bottles.

And I also agree about using clay bars. I buy the Meguiar's Clay Kit and use it once, or maybe twice, a year. It's so fast and easy and you can immediately feel the difference. If you use it on new paint, followed by a hand wax, and then keep at it now and then, the paint will look (and feel) like new years later. I literally have friends and neighbors asking if they can "get on the list" to buy my used cars.

As you can probably tell, I'm retired and detailing our cars is kind of a hobby of mine.

As for the 3M products, talk to your favorite body shop / painter for advice on where to get 3M products and they will either sell you some (cash works best) or point you to the local professional painters supply. Bring cash there too, it seems to work well.

 

[LCOceans]

Just an FYI - I found the 3M synthetic wax protectant (393030) at NAPA. Reviews on this are outstanding. A little on the pricier side at $25 per bottle. Looking forward to trying it.

 

[uraniumrich]

I had a eye-opening conversation with someone who has been putting pinstripes on cars for the last 42 years.

He indicated most supposedly high-quality waxes contain solvents that over time dull your vehicles finish. These manufacturers do this to sell more product.. This includes one manufacturer that I’ve used for years that starts with an “M”.

According to him, there is only one product on the market he would recommend and that is Turtle Wax.

He has also off-roaded for years in Arizona off-road clubs and noted how many vehicles were scratched more than his after trips. The Turtle Wax forms a barrier to minimize scratches to some degree.

Make sure you read the label to ensure there are no solvents before buying to keep that original shine!

In my experience, applying and maintaining a ceramic coating like Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (CSL) is way more effective than any wax product on the market. CSL is easy to apply properly and the toughest part is properly preparing the surface. While I'd recommend doing a full paint correction prior to applying CSL, the coating doesn't care if you took the time to perfect the paint before application. My process is: 1. Wash with decontamination soap. 2. Apply and rinse iron decontamination. 3. Clay bar or other mechanical decon. 4. Rewash to ensure a perfectly clean surface. 5. Paint correction 6. Clean and prep surface with panel wipe or similar. 7. Apply CSL (one coat) 8. Apply EXOv5 (one coat). 9. Enjoy your beautiful LC.

If you don't plan to do a paint correction, I would skip mechanical decon (clay bar or clay mitt) because they can/will mar the surface. The clay picks up contaminants as you use it, which your are then rubbing across the surface of the paint which can mar the surface.

I typically complete the process over 2-3 days. Day 1 is steps 1-4. Day 2 is the paint correction. Day 3 is the application of the ceramic coating and EXOv5. I typically refresh the EXOv5 every 12-18 months. While that isn't necessary, it will prolong the life of the underlying ceramic coating.

The easiest part of the whole process is applying the coating. The hardest part is doing a high quality paint correction.