I "think" there is power underneath the door sill. I'm wondering if I could use the source that would normally go to the illuminated door sill???
Running board lights
- Thread starter Gasser18
- Start date
For my test, I just stuck the pins in the connector to see if the lights illuminated. Look at the puddle light in the outside mirror. If it is lit up, the power should be going to the connector. It only works when the courtesy lights are on…I,e, approach the car with the key fob or unlock the doors with the fob.
Also, it is a 3 pin connector, but only 2 pins are used…see my test picture. The red power pin is the center pin and the ground is the outside (to the right if you look at the connector as shown in this image).
Also, it is a 3 pin connector, but only 2 pins are used…see my test picture. The red power pin is the center pin and the ground is the outside (to the right if you look at the connector as shown in this image).
I guess it could be that I don’t have outside mirror lights. I do have illuminated door sil plates. Mine is just a 1958 model.
Perhaps a stupid question, but did anyone look into just ordering the OEM light (wire/clip, with the light), the part that integrates into the running board? Seems like it might be a simpler way to go about it if the part is available; I assume it could be detached somehow from the running board if it needed to be replaced, and then one would only have to figure out how to mount it underneath, somewhere.
Thanks for any info!
Thanks for any info!
I think @Markarian421 looked into it. Problem is they are expensive and very weak light. He had them when he had running boards and said they were not very bright. Also, I think you need the harness and the light and then you still need to engineer a way to mount them somewhere.
Aren’t the lights themselves integrated into the OEM running boards are not removable. I was going to use some Diode Dynamic rock lights but if I can’t get power from the factory plug I will have to find another route.
- Moderator
- #27
Could be a fuse isn't installed, I have no idea which fuse that would be, It could be an additional harness is needed, I don't have the running board install PDF.
This is what I have (not a lot of help)........ BTW Toyota calls the "side step lights"
Looking through part numbers, I think 81580-42120 is the PN for the light assembly, and they want over $100 each for them.
I actually would prefer the weak light, but not sure about the $200. I suppose if I could find a deal I might be OK with winging it with attachment.
Thanks for that! I might look into trying this this summer.
Same, I’m looking for something pretty dim or at least dimmable.
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks for doing some work guys! I finally got around to ordering some cheap "rock lights" on Amazon to mount under there. Similar to the Slee kit. I already removed the wiring from the stock running boards and plan on using that to wire the lights. The stock ones are very dim and for a few bucks I can add more light with rock rails when I get them. I ordered a few lights so I might try to run a wire to the rear and mount one somewhere around the hitch also.
So I did some more testing today after looking at the circuit PDF @EOD Guy provide and I connected my volt meter from the center pin of the connector to a ground bolt and there is a constant 12v on the center pin. I then connected a strip of 12v LED to the connector and got nothing so there is something missing from this equation.
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It goes without saying, but did you connect both power and ground from the light strip to the connector? And did you try the ground on both outside pins to make sure you had the right ground pin?
Finally, when testing, have your key fob handy and lock and unlock the door. The led strip won't turn on unless the courtesy lights are activated by the fob or proximity. They turn off as soon as as the door is opened I believe.
My test was starting with the doors closed and car locked. Plug the lights in and then unlock the car with the fob while looking at the lights.
Did another test. I connected my meter to the ground pin and the chassis ground and got no continuity. I tried both pins on either side of the center pin. If I connect my meter to the chassis ground and the center pin I get a constant 12v with or without the doors locked or unlocked.
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- Moderator
- #36
Toyota routinely uses the ground side to complete a circuit. Not trying to insult your skillset........... LEDs are polarity dependent (unless there is polarity reversing circuitry).
Some suggestions........
Put the pos wire from the LED light to the center pin and touch the neg wire from the LED light to a known good ground, it should light (assuming there is 12v on the center pin) if it does, you're halfway there.
Set your meter to the Ohms setting and "beep" mode for continuity. Plug one lead into one of the ground pins on the plug and the other lead to a known good ground, if it doesn't "beep" start doing functions that make the convivence lights illuminate ....... some combination of the two outer pins and a known good ground and you should get a beep.
Some suggestions........
Put the pos wire from the LED light to the center pin and touch the neg wire from the LED light to a known good ground, it should light (assuming there is 12v on the center pin) if it does, you're halfway there.
Set your meter to the Ohms setting and "beep" mode for continuity. Plug one lead into one of the ground pins on the plug and the other lead to a known good ground, if it doesn't "beep" start doing functions that make the convivence lights illuminate ....... some combination of the two outer pins and a known good ground and you should get a beep.
I did most of this. With the positive lead from the LED strip in the center pin and the negative lead of the LED strip to a known good chassis ground the lights come on. I did do continuity tests on both sides for the center pins but not while locking or unlocking the vehicle. I need to do the continuity test while unlocking and stuff like that. I do know the pin on the right has more resistance when I push a small wire in so I think that is the negative connection.
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- Moderator
- #38
On page "666 & 667" of the manual it has settings for the illumination settings, got me to wondering if any of those settings affect the out put/functioning of the plug........... Pg 667 mentions running boards and the chart requires a dealer (or Charista) to enable/disable and the "notes" indicate they are affected by "My Settings" and "If equipped"........ Worth looking into tho"
I saw some of that while I will looking in the manual too. Looks like I may get a Carista and see.
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