Oil changing the 2024 Land Cruiser

[Nuke]

Wow, so he is a "hack"? I will admit he makes good money on his videos, and I can certainly ascertain you believe they are not credible. In any case, I will keep doing 5K/6 months with Mobil 1. Overkill? Possibly, but cheap insurance on a vehicle, which for me is a large expenditure to be taken good care of...

 

[qberg]

Wow, so he is a "hack"? I will admit he makes good money on his videos, and I can certainly ascertain you believe they are not credible. In any case, I will keep doing 5K/6 months with Mobil 1. Overkill? Possibly, but cheap insurance on a vehicle, which for me is a large expenditure to be taken good care of...

I edited my post to not come off as harsh, but he's ultimately just an influencer that has expertise in being a mechanic. Mechanics don't often see the root cause of the failure because that isn't their job.

You are free to do what you like and spend money however you like. That said, of the hundreds of warranty claims I investigated, 1 was due to oil changes. That person ran the car on the original oil for 40k miles.

 

[LC-120]

Oh, HOW I wish the diesel was available here in the U.S.!

As you know the LC 250 is replacing the present LC 150. In Europe I assume 99% are Diesel. In US you got the GX470 (not available in Europe, maybe some exceptions)

The LC 250 coming in Europe will be Diesel and (they say) in 2025 will add a Mild Hybrid system. The same engine as LC 150 2.8L Diesel approx 200 HP.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/ms/pdfs/6696e068e0d6447596e3cb088b347e84.pdf

If you are really paranoid about it, pull a small sample at 5k and send it to Blackstone labs. That will give you some idea of how your driving cycle meshes with Toyota's recommendation. Unless you do a ton of city driving, I almost guarantee they will tell you that your oil easily has another 5k miles in it.

I remember checking the basic oil level on a Nissan SUV in US. The 5K/6 months OC was due in a couple of weeks. I was shocked because the oil was transparent, looking like a brand new one. I had never seen this before.
Why should I change this oil and filter ???? But ... I did it, because the car was under warranty.

How you drive may be an issue here ? Or the CVT and smooth driving. Maybe....
In Europe any oil I checked was almost black.

 

[carpoor]

This begs a question, what type of 12V battery does our 2021 highlander employ? Have never looked closely, as they located in the far right rear of the vehicle. Time to take a peek, as if traditional, it may need the fluid topped off.

I can't help notice that people here are very alike in their vehicle taste, it happens that I also own a 2023 Highlander Hybrid AWD
here is the battery in the back of mine.
MF designation means maintenance free so I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you keep the battery charge healthy.

As for Land Cruiser, it's the same as other i-Force Max powertrain, no alternator, just inverter to DC charging the 12v. I definitely will not try to modify that inverter anyway, we'll see, I've seen somewhere that the i-Force Max Tundras inverter output in the 14 volt range so that might be good enough.

 

[carpoor]

Wow, so he is a "hack"? I will admit he makes good money on his videos, and I can certainly ascertain you believe they are not credible. In any case, I will keep doing 5K/6 months with Mobil 1. Overkill? Possibly, but cheap insurance on a vehicle, which for me is a large expenditure to be taken good care of...

I only recommend people to go 5k/6 months if they do their own oil change, if they have to pay a shop $120 or dealership $180 for an oil change, it's not worth it. Might be cheaper just to rebuild the engine when needed with all the savings from longer OCIs.

 

[LC-120]

MF designation means maintenance free so I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you keep the battery charge healthy.

As for Land Cruiser, it's the same as other i-Force Max powertrain, no alternator, just inverter to DC charging the 12v. I definitely will not try to modify that inverter anyway, we'll see, I've seen somewhere that the i-Force Max Tundras inverter output in the 14 volt range so that might be good enough.

55Ah and especially 345A looks small for a starting battery. Is there any clue ?

 

[bandit67]

In any case, I will keep doing 5K/6 months with Mobil 1. Overkill? Possibly, but cheap insurance on a vehicle, which for me is a large expenditure to be taken good care of...

I would also do 5k changes if using Mobil 1. Many years ago, in the early 2000's, I was a big user of Mobil 1 Synthetic. But around the mid 2000's, the API made a change allowing a severly hydro-cracked "dino" oil to be defined as "full synthetic". Immediately, Mobil 1 stopped using true synthetic base stock and began using the "dino" base stock. I did a ton of research at the time, and landed on 2 replacement oils that used full synthetic base stock - Redline and Amsoil, because I was able to look at the components in their product. I ruled out Royal Purple, as they had a "proprietary blend" that NO ONE could get information out of Royol Purple on.

I settled on Amsoil, as it was just a bit cheaper and, at the time, a bit easier to get my hands on. I have been using Amsoil in EVERYTHING for over 15 years, and am comfortable with it based on previous oil analyses. Probably should do some more recent analyses, but I have older vehicles & equipment running Amsoil engine, transmission, gear, hydrostatic, etc., and all are doing well. I am thinking of switching to 5k intervals at my upcoming 50k change on my Ranger, simply because it is NOT port injected, and more frequent oil changes are supposed to help keep intake valves a little cleaner. If I get motivated enough, I should pull the intake and actually look at the intake valves to determine if a 5k change interval is really necessary. Amsoil has gotten rather expensive, but my take is, the extra money is good insurance. I will go with 10k changes if that is what Toyota recommends on the LC, since the 2.4L is BOTH Port & Direct injected, from what I have been able to determine.

 

[Nuke]

I can't help notice that people here are very alike in their vehicle taste, it happens that I also own a 2023 Highlander Hybrid AWD
here is the battery in the back of mine.
MF designation means maintenance free so I wouldn't worry about it, as long as you keep the battery charge healthy.

As for Land Cruiser, it's the same as other i-Force Max powertrain, no alternator, just inverter to DC charging the 12v. I definitely will not try to modify that inverter anyway, we'll see, I've seen somewhere that the i-Force Max Tundras inverter output in the 14 volt range so that might be good enough.
View attachment 893

So, is this battery owner removable/replaceable? Or, does the vehicle computer/firmware have to be reset if one were to disconnect this battery? It sure appears the top cover could be snapped off and the electrolyte topped off if required. With TLC, the OEM battery was still going strong on our 2005 4Runner when sold a couple of years ago.

 

[carpoor]

55Ah and especially 345A looks small for a starting battery. Is there any clue ?

oh, that's for my Highlander hybrid, there's no starter, this 12v battery is merely for powering relays and accessories.

 

[carpoor]

So, is this battery owner removable/replaceable? Or, does the vehicle computer/firmware have to be reset if one were to disconnect this battery? It sure appears the top cover could be snapped off and the electrolyte topped off if required. With TLC, the OEM battery was still going strong on our 2005 4Runner when sold a couple of years ago.

I think so, although I never had to replace it on the highlander, I did once accidentally drain the 12v on my Corolla Hybrid, which is similar. I was able to jump it back up, the check engine light was on and brake malfunction message appear. It makes sense because 12v battery is responsible for supplying power to the brake booster. Eventually check engine light and error message went away.

So I'd assume you can swap out a new battery without having to register it. When I change battery, I always use OBD2 memory saver so it's always seamless.

 

[German88]

Car Care Nut quote "and folks I have 4 words for you, low tension oil rings"...

 

[Nuke]

Car Care Nut quote "and folks I have 4 words for you, low tension oil rings"...

Yes, that was an issue for a spell, and the CarCareNut explicitly points that out in one of his videos. This said, unless a highway high-miler running a top-quality synthetic, will never be convinced to do 10K interval oil changes. A bit of insurance is better than expensive grief in the long term.

 

[German88]

I edited my post to not come off as harsh, but he's ultimately just an influencer that has expertise in being a mechanic. Mechanics don't often see the root cause of the failure because that isn't their job.

You are free to do what you like and spend money however you like. That said, of the hundreds of warranty claims I investigated, 1 was due to oil changes. That person ran the car on the original oil for 40k miles.

Calling him "Just an influencer" is about as inacurate as you can get. Do you have any idea how long he's been "just a Toyota certified mechanic" prior to doing videos? He makes his living working on cars. Low tension oil rings have been apart of all manufactures efforts to meet increasing epa standards for fuel economy. Doing 10K oil changes on a car with low tension oil rings and especially a turbo version is ill advised regardless of how the car is used.

 

[carpoor]

Car Care Nut quote "and folks I have 4 words for you, low tension oil rings"...

Very intrigued, what do low tension oil rings have to do exactly with OCI? I can only guess

• blow-by past rings contaminates oil?
• dirty oil causing residues on the rings reducing sealing property?

 

[German88]

Very intrigued, what do low tension oil rings have to do exactly with OCI? I can only guess

• blow-by past rings contaminates oil?
• dirty oil causing residues on the rings reducing sealing property?

Both correct IMHO and add that changing the oil before it degrades to the point of causing carbon buildup on low tension rings is key.

Only experience I have with this was on my daughters 2017 Audi A3. Bought new in 2017 and had religious oil changes at the recommented 10K interval. Dealer did 100% of the service from day 1. At roughly 40K miles the car was using 2 Qts of oil every 1000 miles. Dealer & Audi refused to help or do anything so I took the car to an independent to have him assess the cause. My plan was to rebuild it if necessary as she loved the car. The tear down revealed stuck rings that were completely caked with carbon and dark sludge. Cylinder bores were fine as was the integrity of the rings & ring grooves. Pistons had zero scoring as well. Audi recently settled a class action lawsuit in relation to oil consumption. Hopefully we'll recoup some of the cost. Sold the car anyway and bought her a 2023 Mazda Non Turbo CX5. Much nicer car from top to bottom. I'm going with 5000 miles intervals on everything from here on out. I do think the oils we have today are outstanding but they are also subject to much higher temps from turbo's etc. I used to believe in, "trust what the manfacture" recommends idea but those days are in the past. Manufactures aren't looking out for the consumer as much as they're trying to inhance margins and sell cars. The long OCI is nothing more than a marketing ploy by manfactures. My guess is you will start to see those intervals come back down to 5000/7000 even on non severe use.

 

[LC-120]

The Garage and Oil Change Intervals. Too Long? Too Short? - The Garage

A question we are asked daily is, “When should I really be changing my oil”? While opinions vary, at The Garage we have a few thoughts to share with you. In the past 20 or so years many manufacturers have offered a “Covered Maintenance” plan of one sort or another. Vehicles sold with one of […]

bmwrepairexperts.com

"US Statistics claim the average driver covers between 10,000 and 15,000 miles per year. A valid claim can be made that having your Oil Service completed three times per year (at around 5,000 miles), or every 4-6 months is appropriate.
At The Garage we support this mileage interval for multiple reasons."

In my opinion this is marketing play and this is how they make MUCH more money.

If you care about your car and your money, drive nice, smoothly and safely. This is how you'll save a lot on fuel and maintenance.

But.... if you plan to use all those 326 HP of the new LC every 10min, then change quarterly your oil and filter. In 10 years you will pay another engine but who cares ... ?

My 2007 Landcruiser 120 got full Synthetic oil only. 1 year interval during the warranty period. Average +2 years after warranty. 3L Turbo Diesel, 173 HP. 6-speed manual.

 

[carpoor]

I'm surprised nobody talked about oil weight by now in light of what manufacturer recommends vs what is more protection for the engine, I'm guessing everyone is sticking with 0W-20?

For reference, I do go against factory recommended 0W-20 weight in my 4Runner and use 5W-30. It's a such old engine and 5W-30 offers more protection with no risk.
I do not plan on deviating from the suggested weight in the Land Cruiser though since it's too new

 

[carpoor]

This pic shows the new Tacoma non hybrid iForce I4 has a spin on vs cartridge oil filter. Will be interesting to see if it’s the same on LC iForce Max hybrid.

thank God it's facing sideway, I hate oil filter facing up, always spill on my hand

 

[German88]

thank God it's facing sideway, I hate oil filter facing up, always spill on my hand

It will be interesting to see if it stays that way into LC production. Maybe someone who’s seen one in person can confirm.

 

[German88]

I'm surprised nobody talked about oil weight by now in light of what manufacturer recommends vs what is more protection for the engine, I'm guessing everyone is sticking with 0W-20?

For reference, I do go against factory recommended 0W-20 weight in my 4Runner and use 5W-30. It's a such old engine and 5W-30 offers more protection with no risk.
I do not plan on deviating from the suggested weight in the Land Cruiser though since it's too new

Where I live it can stay at or below zero degrees f several days on end so heavier oils don’t do as well on cold start. I always stick with recommended weight no matter the conditions. Oils today are so well engineered with ad packs it’s just not necessary to overthink it especially during the warranty period.