Oil and Filter Change, easy peasy.

From earlier in this thread - a perfect fit:

I used a regular old plier style filter wrench and it worked perfectly fine.
Thanks for that..also curious if it fits the same on the original filter from initial assembly. If not I have a pair of filter pliers, just hoping not not to make a giant mess!
 
Thanks for that..also curious if it fits the same on the original filter from initial assembly. If not I have a pair of filter pliers, just hoping not not to make a giant mess!
From what i understand (and anecdotally observed without measuring) - the OE filter is effectively identical to the YZZN1
 
If you could, I'd appreciate some feedback, or a picture of how well the MotoivX 2320 filter wrench fits on the 90915-YZZN1. Amazon tells me it won't fit, but it seems a few people here have used that exact wrench and say its a perfect fit
The filters are the same, size wise and the wrench fits like a glove!
 
If you could, I'd appreciate some feedback, or a picture of how well the MotoivX 2320 filter wrench fits on the 90915-YZZN1. Amazon tells me it won't fit, but it seems a few people here have used that exact wrench and say its a perfect fit
Hey. Like others have said, it's a perfect fit. Seems really well made.
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Question for folks with experience using the Fumoto drain valve - How often, if ever, do you replace the crush washer?
 
Question for folks with experience using the Fumoto drain valve - How often, if ever, do you replace the crush washer?
Everytime.... If you purchase a single filter at the dealer, at least mine, it comes with a free washer. Bulk purchases, I had to buy the ten washers.

(edit) I misread the OP's question........only once (initial installation) with Fumoto valve
 
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Question for folks with experience using the Fumoto drain valve - How often, if ever, do you replace the crush washer?
I think that once you put the Fumoto on, with a crush washer, you do not change the crush washer with each oil change. That is the purpose of the Fumoto valve…
 
I did my first oil change today at around 2200 miles. Just wanted to get some fresh oil and filter in her after the initial run in.

Picked up the OEM filter and a crush washer from the dealer (about $11), got a Toyota-specific oil filter wrench (that fits a 3/8” socket drive) from Autozone (about $7) and 6 quarts of Penzoil 0W-20 (5+1) from Walmart.

Generally pretty straightforward. All you need is a 12mm socket wrench, the oil filter wrench, a plastic catch pan and some rags.

Did it all in the driveway with no lifts or ramps. The only pain in the ass was reinstalling the bash plate and the larger plastic “undercover” from underneath. Hard to hold up and position the plastic cover in particular, while finding the bolt holes to start threading the bolts in. Awkward and cramped, and I could have used a second set of hands…but my wife was having no part of it!

But got it all done and buttoned back up. Old oil didn’t look too bad; still, glad it has fresh slipperiness. Took about 5.9 quarts. Onward to more Land Cruising.
 
Alright. preparing to do the first change. Some suggested using a ramp only on the driver side, but two would obviously help with some more space. Put it in 4lo and crept up.

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Underside of an LC trim. Finger made an appearance

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PXL_20240914_153735608.jpg

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Just adding to this thread since everyone was so helpful. I haven't changed the oil on a car in over 20 years. So was a little nervous, but generally I think I'm ok with this kind of stuff.

LC trim with the metal small front skid plate and the plastic behind it.

Front metal section is held by 4 x 12mm bolts.

I definitely recommend deep sockets as standard-length ones will not be able to get the bolts further in.
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Plastic second plate is held up by 4x12mm bolts. There was a surprising amount of rocks and dirt on the inside of this plate.

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For the LC trim you have just 8x12mm bolts to remove

The oil filter is under the front plate. Horizontal. Facing forward.

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No issue draining. Spilled a few drops.

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Fumoto F133N installed
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Was ready with the big wrench, but the oil filter was not on too tightly. The oil filter wrench recommended in this thread is perfect. Came off easily

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Easy

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Funnel makes life easier. EWK for Toyota

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Too many of these guys this year.

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Used both ramps to put the plates back on.

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Thanks everyone who posted with help!

Getting the full skid plates next week. Hopefully not too difficult to get those on.
 
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I just did the first oil and filter change after break-in @ 1,000 miles. It is one of the easiest to change. Everything is easy to access. The skid plate has 6 12mm bolts. 2 of the boltholes are key holes so you just loosen them and it will hold the weight for removal/install.
Once you have the skid plate off everything is easily accessed.
Bonus. The threads on the oil container thread into the oil filler. You just cut the first one's bottom off and you have a funnel.

View attachment 2470View attachment 2471View attachment 2472View attachment 2473
Is the drain plug the large nut at the front on the black pan?
 
Just did mine today at a little past 1250mi. I don’t usually enjoy changing oil filters when they are on the underside, but the layout and design are very well thought out.

The break in oil was unremarkable to me but I’m used to driving Turbo vehicles. I used Kirkland Signature 0W20 because they were a solid deal at $40 for 12qts

IMG_9086.jpeg
 
Yes! I just finished changing the oil on my 1958. They re different; there are 6 bolts total front section 2; 2 of the bolts are hidden up on little brackets in back that are apart of the shield; 2 bolts in back are visible; the access to drain plug is east and a section of itself; 3 bolts and a plastic shield; the large nut is the drain plug. Easy access and pour out.
 
Just adding to this thread since everyone was so helpful. I haven't changed the oil on a car in over 20 years. So was a little nervous, but generally I think I'm ok with this kind of stuff.

LC trim with the metal small front skid plate and the plastic behind it.

Front metal section is held by 6 x 12mm bolts. 4 straight up and 2 at angles.

I definitely recommend deep sockets as standard-length ones will not be able to get the bolts further in.
View attachment 11626

Plastic second plate is held up by 2x12mm bolts. There was a surprising amount of rocks and dirt on the inside of this plate.

View attachment 11627

For the LC trim you have just 8x12mm bolts to remove

The oil filter is under the front plate. Horizontal. Facing forward.

View attachment 11628

No issue draining. Spilled a few drops.

View attachment 11633

Fumoto F133N installed
View attachment 11634

Was ready with the big wrench, but the oil filter was not on too tightly. The oil filter wrench recommended in this thread is perfect. Came off easily

View attachment 11635

Easy

View attachment 11636

Funnel makes life easier. EWK for Toyota

View attachment 11637

Too many of these guys this year.

View attachment 11638

Used both ramps to put the plates back on.

View attachment 11639

Thanks everyone who posted with help!

Getting the full skid plates next week. Hopefully not too difficult to get those on.
It looks as if you used two fiberglass washers with the Fujimoto valve?
 
I plan to follow oil change intervals every 5,000 miles instead of the recommended 10,000 miles. Is it possible to change the reminder setting to anything other than 10,000 miles when resetting? I hate window sticker reminders as they’re outdated.
 
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