Land Cruisers are easily stolen.

I figured they're better than nothing. Are there any other solutions you can recommend?
I don't know man, for me it's all about layered security. I've got my keys in a Faraday cage when home and have the Ravelco. When parking at airports I pull a fuse just for good measure and hope for the best haha
 
I think I’m doing this. Questions:
**What was the total $$$?
**Do you get two “keys”?
**And if a key is lost what would need to happen?

Thanks!
It's about $900 and that's with getting a 3rd key

There's an ID number associated with the keys, and they told me to use that to order more keys in the future
 
Much cleaner but harder to install, what I call, a "Flip Flop" relay on the trigger wire for the pump relay or pump fuse.

A FF relay operates like any other relay except once it receives an impulse/energized (flips) it locks in that position until it receives another impulse then it flops and locks it that position. It doesn't stay energized, just needs a pulse. In the AV world it's like a A/B switch that switches coax cables etc......

I used one on my beamer to run the flashers when I upgraded the newer style switches that weren't backward compatible with the older model wiring.
I wish I knew what you were talking about.. or at least understood it.. all of my life’s efforts have been oriented to things that have a pulse, bleed..
 
I wish I knew what you were talking about.. or at least understood it.. all of my life’s efforts have been oriented to things that have a pulse, bleed..
This is overly simplified and I'm not trying to insult your knowledge...............Think of a "Flip/Flop" relay like an electronic house light switch...........

With a light switch you use your finger to flip it one direction and the light comes on, using your finger again and flop it the other direction the light goes off. A flip/flop (FF) relay uses a 12v pulse to flip it on, it will stay on until it receives another 12v pulse then it will flop to the off position and stay off until it receives another 12v pulse etc....... unlike most relays which are spring loaded to disconnect when power is lost and require a constant 12V power supply to stay on.

So if you have a well hidden momentary switch/button, that when pushed, provides the FF relay the 12v pulse. In my case I used a hidden magnetic sensor switch and where I have it hidden the range of the magnetic sensor is only 1/8 of an inch. I have to pass a metal object over a 1/2" target area (basically touch the spot). A quarter works well........

My FF relay is tied to two separate items needed to start and run the vehicle (I cut the OEM wires and connected them to the FF relay). It was very time consuming as I unwrapped the OEM wire loom, spliced in my wires and rewrapped everything, Integtated the FF relay so it appears to be OEM and you cannot tell anything was ever done.

All that being said, if someone was dedicated, they could eventually find and reverse what I did, but it would take days and they would have to be very knowledgeable with Toyota wiring and electronics.

Costs: $50 and a days work.......
 
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This is overly simplified and I'm not trying to insult your knowledge...............Think of a "Flip/Flop" relay like an electronic house light switch...........

With a light switch you use your finger to flip it one direction and the light comes on, using your finger again and flop it the other direction the light goes off. A flip/flop (FF) relay uses a 12v pulse to flip it on, it will stay on until it receives another 12v pulse then it will flop to the off position and stay off until it receives another 12v pulse etc....... unlike most relays which are spring loaded to disconnect when power is lost and require a constant 12V power supply.

So if you have a well hidden momentary switch/button, that when pushed, provides the FF relay the 12v pulse. In my case I used a hidden magnetic sensor switch and where I have it hidden the range of the magnetic sensor is only 1/8 of an inch. I have to pass a metal object over a 1/2" target area (basically touch the spot). A quarter works well........

My FF relay is tied to two separate items needed to start and run the vehicle (I cut the OEM wires and connected them to the FF relay). It was very time consuming as I unwrapped the OEM wire loom, spliced in my wires and rewrapped everything, Integtated the FF relay so it appears to be OEM and you cannot tell anything was ever done.

All that being said, if someone was dedicated, they could eventually find and reverse what I did, but it would take days and they would have to be very knowledgeable with Toyota wiring and electronics.

Costs: $50 and a days work.......
Thank you very much for that explanation EOD Guy! It was not insulting. I know and admit that I am a dufus at some things, but they still fascinate me. You explanation really helps a lot. Now I just wish that I could do stuff like that! That hidden magnetic switch is ‘next level’.
 
I have these for my motorcycles and I suppose you could use two of them for the lC steering wheel.
They're made from a special material that would take many different blades on professional angle grinders to get through.

Fun videos to watch of Independent companies trying to break/cut them...

I have dark tinted windows as well which help.

But I find the best security to be physical security. So someone has to sit there. Make a ton of noise with angle grinders for a very long time to go anywhere.

Thieves will very quickly move on to the next car.
Couldn't they more easily drill out that type of lock? Just asking and learning here. Seems the barrell shaped key locks are harder to get a bit started on.
 


If you folks with a Ravelco installed have an email contact for them, would you be interested in sending this video to get their comments?

I'd love to hear what they say. Especially since we now know the guy who bypassed the Ravelco is promoting IGLA and they are in Russia. (Remember Kaspersky?).

The video does imply only a few of the pins on the Ravelco were wired up. Would be good to let them shake down that video.
 
Here's a fun video that I think addresses that.
Thanks. I see he isn't able to drill out the lock. But on the other hand, he doesn't spend much time at it or say what kind of bit he is using.

If he's drilling against boron, that would indeed be a long slow slog to get through. In fact, if any wheel lock is made of boron, that's a good deterrent.

Need a bright red wheel lock and a window sticker that says "Protected by Boron. Go Away."
 
And doesn't prevent it from being towed which leads me to.....

A theft-by-towing question. Do they jack up the car and use wheel carts under each wheel?

So would it be useless to turn the wheel before locking it up? Also useless to lock the shifter or emergency brake in place?
 
And doesn't prevent it from being towed which leads me to.....

A theft-by-towing question. Do they jack up the car and use wheel carts under each wheel?

So would it be useless to turn the wheel before locking it up? Also useless to lock the shifter or emergency brake in place?
Roll back tow trucks will easily pull a vehicle onto the bed even with locked brakes. Turning the wheels is just a minor inconvenience for a tow truck driver.
 
If you folks with a Ravelco installed have an email contact for them, would you be interested in sending this video to get their comments?

I'd love to hear what they say. Especially since we now know the guy who bypassed the Ravelco is promoting IGLA and they are in Russia. (Remember Kaspersky?).

The video does imply only a few of the pins on the Ravelco were wired up. Would be good to let them shake down that video.
I talked to the Ravelco installer about this video and he noted that they only talk about 2 connections in the video, there were more than just 5 wires coming out the back...

He recommended instead take a look at the Donut Media review of the Ravelco. He said that is a more realistic outcome of what happens if people try to jumper the connections
 
That sucks man. Sorry. I wonder how this even happens? I thought new cars couldn't be hot-wired like old ones.
Allegedly all a theif needs an antena and some kind of signal reader to clone your keys and use it on your car.
 
Allegedly all a theif needs an antena and some kind of signal reader to clone your keys and use it on your car.
We are hopeful that the newest Toyota security, which we have, can't be cloned that way. The vehicle stolen here had a broken window.

It seems that OBD access may still vulnerable.

I think it's possible that Toyota Canada has someone on the inside helping with the thefts. It's likely that Toyota dealers know no more than we do, because they would not be trusted. If Toyota techs generally knew how to start any Toyota everyone would know. So any good security design by Toyota would have to "black box" it to the dealers.
 
Any RF signal can be captured and reproduced. You don't even need a physical fob, just the chip, which can be added to the vehicle via OBDii.

My understanding is......... only so many keys can be added to any vehicle, let's say 7 and if all seven slots are full, the system can be erased wiping out all 7 slots and a master key is the only way to add keys back into the system (a master key is one of the keys originally programed when the vehicle was made). If a non-master key is attempted it "bricks" the system and the security module must be replaced. That's why you must have all keys fobs present when adding a credit card key in order for existing keys to continue to function after the CC key is added.

That being said, my theory is: if funds were not an issue one could purchase the max amount of keys and have them programmed to the vehicle, thus filling up any available slots and severely hamper a surreptitious key addition. True professional thieves have another way to steal your vehicle (I won't discuss this method on this forum) and there's not a lot you can do about it.
 
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