I’m preparing for auxiliary additions and have a question about wiring everything. The left side fuse and relay box has empty spaces for auxiliary relays with corresponding fuse spots. Is there capped off wiring within the box? Otherwise I dont know why it would matter which slots you put everything in and why the fuse slots have amperage.
Fuse + Relay Box
- Thread starter Pavloosha27
- Start date
The empty fuse slots are powered from the internal buss bar, however there is no out put. Relays are not going to work other than a hole to put them in. If you search for "EOD Guy's Ride" you can see how I did that.
- Thread starter
- #3
That’s a little too advanced for me. Do you know how to connect the negative terminal to an aftermarket (auxbeam) switch panel? I know there’s a positive jumping terminal, I dont know if I can use that for positive either…
If you are not comfortable with automotive wiring, I strongly suggest you hire someone.........
There are several grounding points under the hood. Just look for wires that are bolted to the inner fender support (black wires and silver terminal).
You can use the jumper connector and there is a stud that you can connect to (just to the right (1/2") of the jumper terminal)
Just be aware that terminal is connected directly to the 12v battery. You should disconnect the battery's ground cable and the connector before you start connecting anything to a live terminal.
After you reconnect the neg battery cable, you will need to recalibrate your rear hatch (if you have a powered rear hatch feature). To do this, simply manually close the rear hatch...... that's it.
You will also need your unlocking code for the radio as it will ask you for it the 1st time you try and start it.
- Thread starter
- #5
Do you think I can run a large ga wire from the positive terminal to create another terminal outside of the fuse box, making the positive more accessible for accessories? My main idea is to use that to power a winch and just ground it to the chassis and making sure my battery ground strap is suitable. I know grounding the winch to the battery is preferred I’m just talking possibilities without working in fuses and whatnot at the moment.
Not sure if that's a good idea......... I did exactly what you're describing for an air compressor, lights etc...... but if I decide to run a winch, I'll run cables back to the 12v battery. Winches draw a huge amount of amps and the LC has a draw monitor connected to the neg battery cable. Toyotas are very sensitive to draws etc.......
