Deep cycle agm battery replacement?

phantasticphil

New member
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Oct 27, 2024
10
2
Portland Oregon
Vehicles
2012 FJ Cruiser, 2024 Land Cruiser
I'm wondering if anyone's considered or have upgraded/replaced the 12v battery with an agm deep cycle like the x2 power battery?

I'd like to have the ability to have power with the car off and not have to worry about charging an external power station for a fridge etc.
 
I installed an Optima DH6.
Nice! How are you managing the voltage requirements of that battery to get it full? I run a 100ah x2 power battery in my FJ and had to do a fuse mod to get the alternator to voltage that these like to see. I feel like that plus a jumper (similar to the setup I have now, single battery for starting and accessories) would enable me to solve the problem.
 
Nice! How are you managing the voltage requirements of that battery to get it full? I run a 100ah x2 power battery in my FJ and had to do a fuse mod to get the alternator to voltage that these like to see. I feel like that plus a jumper (similar to the setup I have now, single battery for starting and accessories) would enable me to solve the problem.
Mine is a direct replacement, not an additional battery. As far as the alternator, the LC doesn't have one. The LC uses a DC to DC inverter from the traction battery (hybrid) to charge the 12v battery. There is a constant draw on the on the 12v system somewhere and, in my case, the old battery would go flat if I didn't drive it at least once or twice a month. When I get caught up on my mods, I plan on doing some snooping and figure out which circuits are responsible and if a simple shut off switch could be used, or if a battery disconnect switch is in order.
 
Mine is a direct replacement, not an additional battery. As far as the alternator, the LC doesn't have one. The LC uses a DC to DC inverter from the traction battery (hybrid) to charge the 12v battery. There is a constant draw on the on the 12v system somewhere and, in my case, the old battery would go flat if I didn't drive it at least once or twice a month. When I get caught up on my mods, I plan on doing some snooping and figure out which circuits are responsible and if a simple shut off switch could be used, or if a battery disconnect switch is in order.
Yep understood that it's a direct replacement, that would be my plan as well. The float for that battery will need 13.2 to 13.8 volts, the charge will need 13.8 to 15 volts. That is higher than the battery you replaced. The "full" voltage once nothing is on it should be around 13 volts, not 12.6.

I would assume the LC charger for that battery is targeting a range that is full at 12.6, which will require lower charge voltage than the AGM battery will. If you go test the voltage without anything connected (assuming there's passive draw and/or trickle), I'd be curious to know what the current voltage is. My guess is that it will be around 12.6, which I think is roughly 70 - 80% of that batteries capacity (don't quote me on this).
 
Yep understood that it's a direct replacement, that would be my plan as well. The float for that battery will need 13.2 to 13.8 volts, the charge will need 13.8 to 15 volts. That is higher than the battery you replaced. The "full" voltage once nothing is on it should be around 13 volts, not 12.6.

I would assume the LC charger for that battery is targeting a range that is full at 12.6, which will require lower charge voltage than the AGM battery will. If you go test the voltage without anything connected (assuming there's passive draw and/or trickle), I'd be curious to know what the current voltage is. My guess is that it will be around 12.6, which I think is roughly 70 - 80% of that batteries capacity (don't quote me on this).
Once it comes off the trickle charger (C-Tek) it's around 12.8 -13.1, which I think is normal............ sitting for a week it'll drop to 12.1 another week of sitting down to 11.9 etc.... all the way to "not enough to start it". If I don't plan on driving it for more than a week, I plug the trickle charger in.
 
Once it comes off the trickle charger (C-Tek) it's around 12.8 -13.1, which I think is normal............ sitting for a week it'll drop to 12.1 another week of sitting down to 11.9 etc.... all the way to "not enough to start it". If I don't plan on driving it for more than a week, I plug the trickle charger in.
Ahh I see, how are you running the trickle charger? Plug in at home or something with the inverter? I could see a trickle charger being used while running and the inverter is on up meet the voltage requirements of the battery, but then again it's pretty much the same thing as just charging an external power station ๐Ÿ˜ญ.

And ya wow, that's a big drop in voltage!

Looking forward to a hack that allows us to leave the inverter on all the time..
 
Ahh I see, how are you running the trickle charger? Plug in at home or something with the inverter? I could see a trickle charger being used while running and the inverter is on up meet the voltage requirements of the battery, but then again it's pretty much the same thing as just charging an external power station ๐Ÿ˜ญ.

And ya wow, that's a big drop in voltage!

Looking forward to a hack that allows us to leave the inverter on all the time..
Plug in the wall for me. I did purchase a capacitor jump box that's dedicated solely to the LC. On the several occasions the 12v battery went flat the jump box was enough to get the 12v system online and allow the traction battery to start the engine.
 
My battery went flat again yesterday. I got all kinds of error messages that went away after a day. I'm looking for a direct replacement. All I was doing was opening the moon roof a couple of times working on the roof rack and I left the vehicle on for about an hour. I'm worried I can't even listen to the radio without the engine on - I don't go anywhere without my booster and don't trust factory battery (at least the one I have) - I'll try the Optima you are recommending! Thanks :)
 
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