Air Compressors - Best type to keep in LC?

My choice is ViAir 485C. But it really boils down to:
What you are going to use it for (CFM and duty cycle).
How much you want to spend (higher the CFM/duty cycle - price goes way up).
How many times you expect to use it (be honest with yourself).
Your installation skill set (hard wire vs battery clips).
Have any pictures of it installed in your LC?
 
I'd say it's a perfect project for new DIYer. (EOD Guy's Ride in the build thread).
You will need:
The 12v outlet (avail on amazon)
Crimping tool for ring terminals (Amazon, Harbor Freight)
1 in-line fuse holder
1 butt connector (kit avail on amazon)
2 ring terminals (Amazon or Harbor Freight)
1 "M8" nut (metric)

1 - attach the in-line fuse holder to the red wire on the 12v outlet (use a butt connector)
2 - attach a ring terminal to the in-line fuse holder and the black wire (ground) on the 12v outlet.
3 - Gain access to the 12v battery, fold back the pink plastic protective sheet.
4 - Disconnect the neg battery terminal (12mm).
5 - Carefully remove the red hard plastic cover from the positive terminal on the battery (the top pops up approx 30 degrees and the larger, horizontal area, pulls straight sideways, I used a hook tool). Once removed you will see a threaded stud with no wires on it, attach the red wire from the "fuse holder/12v outlet from step 2, secure with the M8 nut, replace the red protective cover and plastic sheet.
6 - Attach the black wire (ground) to one of the bolts securing the "jack cradle to the body". I prefer that vs the neg battery terminal so you don't end up with a lot of wires attached to the battery, but perfectly fine to attach it directly to the neg batt terminal stud.
7 - Reconnect the neg battery terminal (12mm).
8 - Route and secure 12v outlet in the "jack storage area" with wire ties. I'd use that area for easy access.

If you want to hard mount the 12v outlet (not necessary), you will need to fabricate/buy a mounting flange (3d printing may be an option).
This was over simplified and not my intention to insult anyone's skill set.
I'm more of a visual learner. If you ever decide to make a video of these things that would be incredible. Do you have a YouTube channel?
 
I'd say it's a perfect project for new DIYer. (search for EOD Guy's Ride for many other mods I have completed on the LC).

You will need:
The 12v outlet (avail on amazon)
Crimping tool for ring terminals (Amazon, Harbor Freight)
1 in-line fuse holder
1 butt connector (kit avail on amazon)
2 ring terminals (Amazon or Harbor Freight)
1 "M8" nut (metric)

1 - attach the in-line fuse holder to the red wire on the 12v outlet (use a butt connector)
2 - attach a ring terminal to the in-line fuse holder and the black wire (ground) on the 12v outlet.
3 - Gain access to the 12v battery, fold back the pink plastic protective sheet.
4 - Disconnect the neg battery terminal (12mm).
5 - Carefully remove the red hard plastic cover from the positive terminal on the battery (the top pops up approx 30 degrees and the larger, horizontal area, pulls straight sideways, I used a hook tool). Once removed you will see a threaded stud with no wires on it, attach the red wire from the "fuse holder/12v outlet from step 2, secure with the M8 nut, replace the red protective cover and plastic sheet.
6 - Attach the black wire (ground) to one of the bolts securing the "jack cradle to the body". I prefer that vs the neg battery terminal so you don't end up with a lot of wires attached to the battery, but perfectly fine to attach it directly to the neg batt terminal stud.
7 - Reconnect the neg battery terminal (12mm).
8 - Route and secure 12v outlet in the "jack storage area" with wire ties. I'd use that area for easy access.

If you want to hard mount the 12v outlet (not necessary), you will need to fabricate/buy a mounting flange (3d printing may be an option).
This was over simplified and not my intention to insult anyone's skill set.
Perfect ! Much appreciated.

A few Qs:

1. Is this always hot? So I need to be careful not to drain the starting battery?
2. Any electronics go whacky after disconnecting the negative terminal? Any resets or reflashing needed?
3. Any suggestions on fuse size? I'm thinking to look up whatever my Ford OEM 12V plug uses because I know the Ecoflow works well on that. Perhaps the 12V marine plug with wires is labeled? Sounds like wires will be nice and short to avoid concern about losses.

I will want a firmed up mounting flange to hold the 12V plug against push back and to reduce movement. My Ecoflow River Pro prefers to be charged on 12V (battery lasts longer) and if I plug the refrig in directly, the Iceco itself has a weak male plug that likes to shake lose.

This is called getting my ducks in a row. Haven't even bought the truck yet!
 
Ended up going with the Viair 450P on the compressor. Seemed like high quality in a small portable package.
 
Perfect ! Much appreciated.

A few Qs:

1. Is this always hot? So I need to be careful not to drain the starting battery?
2. Any electronics go whacky after disconnecting the negative terminal? Any resets or reflashing needed?
3. Any suggestions on fuse size? I'm thinking to look up whatever my Ford OEM 12V plug uses because I know the Ecoflow works well on that. Perhaps the 12V marine plug with wires is labeled? Sounds like wires will be nice and short to avoid concern about losses.

I will want a firmed up mounting flange to hold the 12V plug against push back and to reduce movement. My Ecoflow River Pro prefers to be charged on 12V (battery lasts longer) and if I plug the refrig in directly, the Iceco itself has a weak male plug that likes to shake lose.

This is called getting my ducks in a row. Haven't even bought the truck yet!
1 - Yes it's always hot..... You could put in a relay that's triggered by a wire from the center console 12v outlet which is only hot in Accy or Run. A little more complicated but very doable.
2 - The power rear hatch has to be initialized, accomplished by manually pushing the door shut. The radio will need the passcode you put in at the dealers....... that's all I've ever had to reset.
3 - I'd start with a 20 amp and see if that will work, then a 30 amp etc...... The wires on the 12v outlet are long, cut to length. I actually replaced them with 14g as I don't really trust chiniziam wire (probably 18g if that). 12v outlet is labeled + and -

A really cheap and easy place to obtain piece of metal.... are commercial wire junction box cover sold at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. They are easily bent with a vice and a 2x4 and a hammer. Place the metal in a vice at the depth of the bend, start you bend with your hands to 20-30 degrees then use the 2x4 (or similar) as a wide punch. Rest/place the 2x4 on the vice jaws and strike it with a hammer. This method distributes the force across the with of the metal and you'll end up with a tight radius bend vs a rounded bend that looks like crud.

You might think about changing the plug on the fridge to something below. and with a battery tender lead, the fuse holder and ring terminals are already installed and with the 12v outlet plug you retain the versatility but the tender 2 pin connector will not shake out etc.... .
1725475889181.png

1725476013571.png

1725476212406.png
 
Last edited:
1 - Yes it's always hot..... You could put in a relay that's triggered by a wire from the center console which is only hot in Accy or Run. A little more complicated but very doable.
2 - The power rear hatch has to be initialized, accomplished by manually pushing the door shut. The radio will need the passcode you put in at the dealers....... that's all I've ever had to reset.
3 - I'd start with a 20 amp and see if that will work, then a 30 amp etc...... The wires on the 12v outlet are long, cut to length. I actually replaced them with 14g as I don't really trust chiniziam wire (probably 18g if that). 12v outlet is labeled + and -

A really cheap and easy place to obtain piece of metal.... are commercial wire junction box cover sold at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. They are easily bent with a vice and a 2x4 and a hammer. Place the metal in a vice at the depth of the bend, start you bend with your hands to 20-30 degrees then use the 2x4 (or similar) as a wide punch. Rest/place the 2x4 on the vice jaws and strike it with a hammer. This method distributes the force across the with of the metal and you'll end up with a tight radius bend vs a rounded bend that looks like crud.

You might think about changing the plug on the fridge to something below. and with a battery tender lead, the fuse holder and ring terminals are already installed and with the 12v outlet plug you retain the versatility but the tender 2 pin connector will not shake out etc.... .
View attachment 10560
View attachment 10561
View attachment 10562
14 gage wire is a good upgrade. I could do some calcs before I shop. I tend to put safety first. If you have an idea where the best place is to get the run/accy signal for adding that relay, please let us know. I don't suppose there is anything published that shows all the best means and methods for upfitters. You've been helpful! Thanks.
 
I don't know of anything published......

There are some relays beside the 12v battery that maybe hot in ACCY, IDK...... but the 12v cigar outlet in the back of the center console should be hot in ACCY only and that could be a trigger wire. I use one of the unused ACCY fuse slots in the driver's side, underhood fuse box and run a wire through the firewall to a ACCY Buss bar (details in EOD Guy's Ride thread)
 
Any concerns with the Viair 88P or the occasional light off-roading? Maybe just slow?
I did some research before buying the 450 and wanted to go with the 88 for cost. But reading comparisons I was hearing it would take a bit longer to air up 4 tires, the 88 gets hot and can shut down after 25 min to cool, and also read a few places where the 88 could blow a fuse in the truck.. Also tire size - max on 88 was 33" tires. I am sure with just a few more minutes during the air-ups and keeping tire size roughly stock, you will be great.
 
I see you went with the Viair 450, but I wanted to link this spendy option for anyone interested in an easy installation.

 
For $1000+ it solves problems for folks that don't have access to fabrication tools. I don't like the way they ran the wiring across the engine, under the radiator top support (grill side) is a much cleaner install.

ARB compressors are the top shelf of 12v compressors.
 
Last edited:
I see you went with the Viair 450, but I wanted to link this spendy option for anyone interested in an easy installation.


ARB + CATuned Off-Road in route. I’ll let you guys know how the install went.
 
I’ve been us using a portable battery powered one from Fanttik. It’s the X9 and so far no complaints. It’ll take me about 10 minutes to get my tires from 25-50psi.
 
I’ve been us using a portable battery powered one from Fanttik. It’s the X9 and so far no complaints. It’ll take me about 10 minutes to get my tires from 25-50psi.
I just ordered the Fanttik X9 ultra yesterday and am excited to try it. I also ordered the LockNflate air chuck (and a 1/4” npt adapter) for quicker use. Amazon.com
 
Back
Top