Rear Cargo Platform DIY options

I don't see the video. Can you please put a link to what you're talking about?


 
Sweet!! I was waiting for Brian to post this…he shot some with me in it too, must have ended up on the editing floor. 🤣
 
@JoeDirt any feedback on the platform? Just saw the video they posted announcing the new system.
Absolutely love it!! Super versatile, still have access to those small OEM cubbies by pulling the drawers all the way out, so sort of a hidden compartment. Easy to deploy the sleeping platform and then easily break it back down for full use of second row seats.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3285.jpeg
    IMG_3285.jpeg
    367.3 KB · Views: 204
  • IMG_3286.jpeg
    IMG_3286.jpeg
    317.4 KB · Views: 203
Absolutely love it!! Super versatile, still have access to those small OEM cubbies by pulling the drawers all the way out, so sort of a hidden compartment. Easy to deploy the sleeping platform and then easily break it back down for full use of second row seats.
Here some photos that show the cutouts which save some weight while retaining strength and stability.
 

Attachments

  • 123_1.jpeg
    123_1.jpeg
    380.9 KB · Views: 189
  • 123_1.jpeg
    123_1.jpeg
    315.4 KB · Views: 178
  • IMG_3274.jpeg
    IMG_3274.jpeg
    389.3 KB · Views: 190
Thanks for sharing! Couple of questions if you don't mind:
What is the total length with the bed platform deployed?
Can you access the side cubbies still?
To access the compartment along the rear hatch does the drawer have to be completely removed from the platform?
Can the rear seats recline at all?

None of these are deal breakers, just trying to get a better understanding. Looking at this or going custom with someone like Overlander Woodworks
 
Absolutely love it!! Super versatile, still have access to those small OEM cubbies by pulling the drawers all the way out, so sort of a hidden compartment. Easy to deploy the sleeping platform and then easily break it back down for full use of second row seats.

Can you elaborate on "pull the drawers all the way out?" Do you mean you have to remove the drawers? Or are the drawers able to be pulled out far enough where the back of the drawer is behind the end of the platform so you can reach behind it and access the cubby?
 
Can you elaborate on "pull the drawers all the way out?" Do you mean you have to remove the drawers? Or are the drawers able to be pulled out far enough where the back of the drawer is behind the end of the platform so you can reach behind it and access the cubby?
Drawers pull out far enough to access the rear cubbie areas. There is no need to remove them completely.
 
Thanks for sharing! Couple of questions if you don't mind:
What is the total length with the bed platform deployed?
Can you access the side cubbies still?
To access the compartment along the rear hatch does the drawer have to be completely removed from the platform?
Can the rear seats recline at all?

None of these are deal breakers, just trying to get a better understanding. Looking at this or going custom with someone like Overlander Woodworks
-Total length is ~ 70"
-Yes, the side cubbies are still accessible, allowing you to get to the 12V access panel on the left side and the inverter on the right.
-No, the drawer does not need to be removed to access those back cubbies. Simply extending the drawer to a fully open position allows easy access.
-Yes, the rear seats can still recline slightly for a more comfortable seating position for back passengers, roughly 10-15 degrees recline.

I should also note that the system is relatively easy to remove. It is bolted down in the front using the OEM anchor points and in the back using turn buckles. It is super stable and secure, with no movement whatsoever, but it still allows you to easily return it to OEM condition should you need to.
 
Last edited:
Currently building out a sleeping platform with drawers under it. The slides just arrived today so might be able to get some early pics out this weekend
Life got busy but I should finish this build out this weekend. I ran into a few hurdles so had to adjust as I built so forgive the dumb mistakes haha some ideas didn’t pan out as expected. I am still figuring out how I want to attach the sleeper extension. I will be wrapping the top in marine carpet and then running aluminum around the edges for the top and the drawer fronts.

Front is secured by removing the tie down latches and bolting directly to what the latches bolted to. Rear is just turn buckles.
IMG_3519.jpeg
IMG_3518.jpeg
IMG_3517.jpeg
IMG_3520.jpeg
IMG_3522.jpeg
 
-Total length is ~ 70"
-Yes, the side cubbies are still accessible, allowing you to get to the 12V access panel on the left side and the inverter on the right.
-No, the drawer does not need to be removed to access those back cubbies. Simply extending the drawer to a fully open position allows easy access.
-Yes, the rear seats can still recline slightly for a more comfortable seating position for back passengers, roughly 10-15 degrees recline.

I should also note that the system is relatively easy to remove. It is bolted down in the front using the OEM anchor points and in the back using wing clamps. It is super stable and secure, with no movement whatsoever, but it still allows you to easily return it to OEM condition should you need to.
Thanks for sharing! Couple of questions if you don't mind:
What is the total length with the bed platform deployed?
Can you access the side cubbies still?
To access the compartment along the rear hatch does the drawer have to be completely removed from the platform?
Can the rear seats recline at all?

None of these are deal breakers, just trying to get a better understanding. Looking at this or going custom with someone like Overlander Woodworks
See that Joe answered all your questions but let me know if you have any others!

Here is the link to the listing with more info:
Land Cruiser - PreCut Kit
 
What a bunch of MacGyvers on this site!
You guys are awesome.
I'm looking forward to whatever you guys fabricate in the future.
 
Absolutely love it!! Super versatile, still have access to those small OEM cubbies by pulling the drawers all the way out, so sort of a hidden compartment. Easy to deploy the sleeping platform and then easily break it back down for full use of second row seats.
What air mattress is that? Looks like it fits the width and length perfectly.
 
I just posted a bit about my DIY build if you want to check it out. I am using an exped mattress on it as well.

 
See that Joe answered all your questions but let me know if you have any others!

Here is the link to the listing with more info:
Land Cruiser - PreCut Kit
A lower profile drawer kit and a drawer-less base platform would be nice options to choose from. I’d prefer my fridge be lower for easier access and to lose less cargo height for day to day use.
 
I'm thinking about building a cargo platform in the back. I did something in my LX570 that while basic, served my purposes. Essentially, after removing the 3rd row, I had multiple M8 bolt locations. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood using a template made from a large piece of cardboard. However, the with the 250, the seat anchors are no longer there due to the hybrid battery.

There are now (at the time of this post) a couple of options in the aftermarket space, Air Down Gear Up and Goose Gear.

Air Down Gear Up:

View attachment 6828

  1. Logistics
    1. From what I can tell, they use the cargo tie-down hooks to secure their platform.
    2. It appears that the rear storage spaces are sacrificed
    3. Once it's installed, it unlikely you will be taking it in and out quickly.
    4. The platform is pretty elevated so probably not going to be hauling much back there when not overlapping. No dogs, bikes, etc.
  2. Price
    1. "bare minimum" which does not include any drawers, slide out tables, or sleeper option is $2044
    2. Adding a drawer to either side is $900 per drawer
    3. Adding a slide-out table to either side is $450 per table
    4. Adding the sleeper option is another $750

Goose Gear
View attachment 6829

  1. Logistics
    1. Currently, the only option is for a rear "plate". Future plans apparently include a rear seat delete option.
    2. It looks like the rear storage spaces are removed completely and things are attached to extruded aluminum which is attached to ???
    3. While you still have room under the plate and to the sides, there are only certain types of things you could store there that won't roll out every time you open the liftgate.
    4. You could still haul dogs, bikes, etc.
    5. No options (currently) for drawers, slide out tables, sleeper, etc.
  2. Price
    1. $1395

So, with those being the only 2 options, I'll be looking to build my own.....again. I'm blessed that I'm pretty handy and while it might end up as pretty as the options above, I'm unwilling to spend $1400 at a minimum just to get a flat platform to build something on or $3800 to have something with 2 drawers while giving up most of my non-overlanding cargo space.

This build will not happen right away (hopefully over the winter) but I'm putting this thread out there to start the design process and foster ideas from other, like-minded folks. I do have a long overlanding trip coming up in September so I'll come up with a short-term solution and possibly that will generate some information on the design.
Yes, the prices are astronomical for what you get.

If you wanted to get the seat delete and the flat platform for the entire rear section from goose gear, it's something like $5,000.

Pretty crazy for half inch piece of wood.

I'll do it myself. Thanks
 
You are far more skilled - here is my more basic effort - adjustable legs - covered in automotive carpet - sits next to my digs crate and allows for shotguns in slips to be stored on a shoot with 2nd row split seat folded
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2133.jpeg
    IMG_2133.jpeg
    638.5 KB · Views: 25
  • IMG_2126.jpeg
    IMG_2126.jpeg
    507.4 KB · Views: 25
Back
Top