I Purchased the Wilson Electronics "WeBoost Overlander" cell phone amp. I didn't like the mounts that came with the unit so I fabricated my own.
I fabricated a steel plate with 1/2" angled sides (traps the angle sided amp). I welded the steel plate to the back side of the jack cradle, slid the amp in, added a keeper strap and remounted the jack cradle
I made a solid 3" alum spacer that fits in the OEM roof rack "C" channel and through bolted the Weboost antenna base to that (I discarded the orig clamp style mount). The antenna bounces and hits the roof when folded, so I fabricated a stainless steel antenna cradle that bolted to a 3/4" extruded alum. The new alum rail is bolted to where the "missing" 5th cross bar should go.
I ran the "outside" coax in the corner gap of the rear hatch, through the OEM rubber boot, across to the "D" pillar and down to the Amp.
I poked a very tiny hole in the rubber boot using an ice pick, then forced the coax through that tiny hole. It made a very tight waterproof seal.
When removing the rubber boost, DO NOT attempt to pry it off like every other panel or you will break the plastic keeper! Grasp the rubber boot along the flat part of the boot and pull straight out until it comes off the white plastic keeper, work around the boot until it's separated from the keeper. Once the boot is free, there are plastic tabs that keep the keeper secured to the metal, just depress them and pop the keeper out. after running your cable through the boot, stretch the rubber back around the white keeper and snap the keeper back in to the hole.
I disassembled the 12v cigar lighter power plug that came with the kit, removed the small on/off switch and remounted it to the trim panel just below the AC controls. I tapped into the center console 12v outlet for ACCY power and ran the switch wires under the center console up the remote mounted switch. I wrapped the circuit board in a large piece of shrink wrap that will just lay behind the trim panel.
I fabricated a steel plate with 1/2" angled sides (traps the angle sided amp). I welded the steel plate to the back side of the jack cradle, slid the amp in, added a keeper strap and remounted the jack cradle
I made a solid 3" alum spacer that fits in the OEM roof rack "C" channel and through bolted the Weboost antenna base to that (I discarded the orig clamp style mount). The antenna bounces and hits the roof when folded, so I fabricated a stainless steel antenna cradle that bolted to a 3/4" extruded alum. The new alum rail is bolted to where the "missing" 5th cross bar should go.
I ran the "outside" coax in the corner gap of the rear hatch, through the OEM rubber boot, across to the "D" pillar and down to the Amp.
I poked a very tiny hole in the rubber boot using an ice pick, then forced the coax through that tiny hole. It made a very tight waterproof seal.
When removing the rubber boost, DO NOT attempt to pry it off like every other panel or you will break the plastic keeper! Grasp the rubber boot along the flat part of the boot and pull straight out until it comes off the white plastic keeper, work around the boot until it's separated from the keeper. Once the boot is free, there are plastic tabs that keep the keeper secured to the metal, just depress them and pop the keeper out. after running your cable through the boot, stretch the rubber back around the white keeper and snap the keeper back in to the hole.
I disassembled the 12v cigar lighter power plug that came with the kit, removed the small on/off switch and remounted it to the trim panel just below the AC controls. I tapped into the center console 12v outlet for ACCY power and ran the switch wires under the center console up the remote mounted switch. I wrapped the circuit board in a large piece of shrink wrap that will just lay behind the trim panel.
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