Tire Upgrade ?

[Jean Louis]

Toyota Costa Rica.
Just arrived: 2025 LC Prado Luxury trim.
2.8 L. Diesel ONLY
Specific black grille.
3 rows.
7 seats.
Flat cargo space up to first row.
Sunroof.
Roof rails.
20" Wheels.
USD 66,000 in Australia.
USD 118,000 in Costa Rica !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (LOCURA TOTAL con los precios en este pais !!!).

 

[Jean Louis]

Funny I was looking at the charcoal ones, think I may end up going that route just need to decide on tires.

Options ...

 

[Pierac]

He's not talking about tire size. He's talking about standard light truck tires vs. all terrain and mud terrain. Get an all terrain tire if you want a more indestructible tire you can take off-road without destroying it. Get a mud terrain tire if you want to go rock crawling. Stick with standard light truck tires if you don't off-road.

Not what he said

he's categorically wrong about 2 core points:

1-He contradicts himself. A front diff locker can be dangerous because its also a Steering Locker, you can't turn with it locked. Having an on-board computer locking/unlocking things automatically; dialed by Toyota engineers is more than adequate for the majority of situations. diminishing the Need for a "front" locker.

But, Brake Traction Control/A-TRAC moves power around after the tires has broken loose, rocking the truck and flinging dirt and rocks around. Locked diff's works before loss of traction occurs. so on a rocky or tight passages you need the smooth modulation of power across the axle to dial just enough to, say, climb over the front face of a big rock. Another situation is when the ECU bogs things down when you need power. That's just a couple of examples off the top of my head. Hence, YES, there are some situations/trails, where the better approach is to use them locker(s) instead of relying on brake vectoring. Smooth application of engine power is why we have CRAWL control on top of A-TRAC; nonetheless for their most extreme versions of 300, Toyota opted for all the tools for different situations. its not about people being "Stupid".

2-The blanket statement of AT's are 10% better in off-road than all-seasons is baseless at best. whatever he imparted is wrong on so many levels I honestly don't know where to start. Every tire is different, Baja Boss is an AT but also the Yokohama G015 is an "AT".
Whilst the the sidewall strength is a real thing, I'd rather listen to the opinion of reviewers who have real-world wheel-time offroading different tires than some snobbish rant.

Good to know... so much information that is just clearly bad or miss leading? I will admit... I have no idea.. thus the research I'm doing... One thing I do know from my research is you can really mess up your drive train if you don't know what your doing! You can see this on Youtubers breaking their Tacoma's on line!

Correct me if I'm wrong.... What I have learned so far with my research on off road driving... Don't bump in 4 low... See youtube Tacoma break front diff.... from idiots that think they are off road warriors.... video


1. Craw control is only needed/used for deep Sand or Mud.

2. Never lock rear diff with high traction surfaces.

Sooo much more to learn...

 

[c2scanada]

Did airing down the spare help the fitment?

I just installed the Falken AT4W 275/70/R18. Spare fits but hangs down slightly lower.

Did airing down the spare help the fitment?

 

[Jean Louis]

Just have a look to check if this set fits in the spare location ?? (33x12.5R18 on 18x9 rim ET:+40mm).

 

[Honeybadger]

Got the Method 703's in 17x8.5 +35 offset. Went to discount tire and had them test fit the BFG KO3 and Falcon Wildpeak AT4W. Both in 285/70/17 - The BFG was C rated and the Falcon was SL rated.... The Falcon is definitely bigger side by side which I knew going in.

To my surprise - The BFG KO3's required the most weight (3-4 ounces) but Road Force Balanced the best. The AT4W's required the least with (1-2 ounces) but Road Force Balanced with number in the 20's.

This seems completely counter intuitive. I would have assumed less weight needed to balance and better Road Force numbers from the SL rated AT4W's... Tried 5 different tires and 2 different wheels. Match mounted, ect.

I'm thinking go with the BFG KO3's as the Road Force Balanced with much better numbers (4-7). Even with the added weight....

 

[utahguy]

Not what he said

Good to know... so much information that is just clearly bad or miss leading? I will admit... I have no idea.. thus the research I'm doing... One thing I do know from my research is you can really mess up your drive train if you don't know what your doing! You can see this on Youtubers breaking their Tacoma's on line!

Correct me if I'm wrong.... What I have learned so far with my research on off road driving... Don't bump in 4 low... See youtube Tacoma break front diff.... from idiots that think they are off road warriors.... video

1. Craw control is only needed/used for deep Sand or Mud.

2. Never lock rear diff with high traction surfaces.

Sooo much more to learn...

TFL video "idiots": What would you have done differently in that situation?

Deep sand and mud: Momentum, tires, tire pressure, wheel speed, and high engine RPMs are the keys to success. Whatever mode lets you spin the wheels is the best one. And air down as far as you can without breaking a bead lock. And eventually you're going to get stuck, so a buddy vehicle and rescue gear are essential.

Rear diff lock: It's fine to engage it while on high-traction surfaces when you expect to lift a rear wheel or lose traction (approaching a boulder field, for example). Toyota's system is particularly slow to engage so you'll probably need to plan ahead. Same with the sway bar disconnect. Don't wait until you're in trouble. With my Wrangler I can engage the diff lockers and disengage the sway bar in just about any situation, so it's fine to wait until I'm teetering on 2 wheels at an awkward angle risking a rollover, clawing for traction and hoping something hooks up before I slip off the obstacle. With the Toyota, not so much. Better to get things situated early.

 

[joecbsdfw]

Still no 285/70/18s on a stock rim, right? I have not seen it yet. I know it will work with a few different aftermarket offsets, but stock rim???

Still no 285/70/18s on a stock rim, right? I have not seen it yet. I know it will work with a few different aftermarket offsets, but stock rim???

My guy said rim offset won’t be good for 285. I went with 275

 

[LCNorth]

New tires today! AT4W’s. Stock size. But the tread width is much wider than the Michelins. Standard Load. The ride is a touch firmer, just enough to know you’re driving AT’s. But still quiet and smooth. With all the sipes, looks like it will do great in snow.

 

[tkmoto]

New tires today! AT4W’s. Stock size. But the tread width is much wider than the Michelins. Standard Load. The ride is a touch firmer, just enough to know you’re driving AT’s. But still quiet and smooth. With all the sipes, looks like it will do great in snow.

Very nice!

 

[mayonayze]

I thought i’d tire swap right away, but the yoka’s on the 58 are friggin great! Quiet, smooth, grippy. So i guess this is what its like to be 48 going on 78

And also, get off my lawn

 

[Pierac]

TFL video "idiots": What would you have done differently in that situation?

Deep sand and mud: Momentum, tires, tire pressure, wheel speed, and high engine RPMs are the keys to success. Whatever mode lets you spin the wheels is the best one. And air down as far as you can without breaking a bead lock. And eventually you're going to get stuck, so a buddy vehicle and rescue gear are essential.

Rear diff lock: It's fine to engage it while on high-traction surfaces when you expect to lift a rear wheel or lose traction (approaching a boulder field, for example). Toyota's system is particularly slow to engage so you'll probably need to plan ahead. Same with the sway bar disconnect. Don't wait until you're in trouble. With my Wrangler I can engage the diff lockers and disengage the sway bar in just about any situation, so it's fine to wait until I'm teetering on 2 wheels at an awkward angle risking a rollover, clawing for traction and hoping something hooks up before I slip off the obstacle. With the Toyota, not so much. Better to get things situated early.

Have no idea!

That's why I'm posting... But it's seems from some off road members... (on Line) say... you don't bump in 4 low???



What I do know.... Is you can get your self a serious repair bill... by pretending you do know!

 

[OsageCowboy]

New tires today! AT4W’s. Stock size. But the tread width is much wider than the Michelins. Standard Load. The ride is a touch firmer, just enough to know you’re driving AT’s. But still quiet and smooth. With all the sipes, looks like it will do great in snow.

These are 265/70/18s, right?

 

[BigMF]

New tires today! AT4W’s. Stock size. But the tread width is much wider than the Michelins. Standard Load. The ride is a touch firmer, just enough to know you’re driving AT’s. But still quiet and smooth. With all the sipes, looks like it will do great in snow.

It's interesting how the SL and E rated versions of this size tire (265/70R18) from Falken are significantly different in diameter. According to Discount Tire, the SL version is 32.6" whereas the E version is 33.43".

 

[TumaloCruzer]

It's interesting how the SL and E rated versions of this size tire (265/70R18) from Falken are significantly different in diameter. According to Discount Tire, the SL version is 32.6" whereas the E version is 33.43".

Discount told you the wrong diameter for the LT E load tire, they were looking at the 275/70R18 (see info below). Diameter for LT in 265/70R18 is 33.0" . Go to the source for correct info:

 

[LCNorth]

These are 265/70/18s, right?

Yes!

It's interesting how the SL and E rated versions of this size tire (265/70R18) from Falken are significantly different in diameter. According to Discount Tire, the SL version is 32.6" whereas the E version is 33.43".

As stated it’s 32.6 vs 33.0 and if you dig deep in the specs, it’s additional tread depth on the E rated, likely to get the same wear distance rating as the SL, assuming heavier loads.

 

[jeff2j]

I have a 1958. Does anyone know if that stock wheel is the same width as the LE? Can I plus up to 265/70 R18 or 275 on that stock wheel or do I need to find new wheels? Second question, has anyone weighed the stock 1958 wheel without a tire?

 

[TrailWhale]

I have a 1958. Does anyone know if that stock wheel is the same width as the LE? Can I plus up to 265/70 R18 or 275 on that stock wheel or do I need to find new wheels? Second question, has anyone weighed the stock 1958 wheel without a tire?

According to @Markarian421 's very handy spreadsheet, the wheel size is slightly different:
1958 - 18x7 +70
LC/FE - 18x7.5 +60

 

[supraphonic]

I have a 1958. Does anyone know if that stock wheel is the same width as the LE? Can I plus up to 265/70 R18 or 275 on that stock wheel or do I need to find new wheels? Second question, has anyone weighed the stock 1958 wheel without a tire?

Different, slightly narrower wheel on the 1958 at 18x7", but that'll still allow most 275/70R18 tires, with a lot of folks here showing success with BFG KO3s (what I'm running myself) and Falken Wildpeak AT4Ws in that size on the stock 1958 rims. As for other tires, the spec sheets will say what the acceptable rim range is, 7" is generally the minimum acceptable width for that size but it could vary.

Unfortunately I can't help you on the weight, but maybe somebody else can.

 

[mayonayze]

Everyone seems to be running the girthy meats, but is there anyone going the pizza cutter route?