LC Trim base level stereo

I used the brackets that came with the Infinity REF607F for the rears
I ended up buying these speakers for the rear since I found them on sale. In your main post you mentioned you drilled 2 holes to mount these. Did you drill the holes in the metal part of the door itself? I've never drilled into metal let alone a car door. Mind sharing some more details such as a good drill bit size to use? I don't want to mess this up!
 
If your vehicle supports wireless carplay, it used WiFi direct or it wouldn't work. Most cars just don't come out and say they have a wifi antenna for the wireless Carplay/AAuto.
It doesn't. It will play music and do phone calls wirelessly, that is it, it does it over BT, not wifi. My new full size p/u will have wireless. I honestly didn't know or gave much thought to how wireless CP worked. Part of the reason I bought a new p/u.
 
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Yeah I've seen some reports that it's just for ANC in the 1958. So likely isn't connected to the stereo? I feel like even the stock door speakers offer enough bass for what I listen to, and I'm guessing the Infinity speakers are only going to improve upon that so should be fine for now.
You'll get tighter, less boomy bass. The magnets on the all OEM speakers are a joke. Some people like boomy bass. That is my main take away from the people who have done it, also adding noise dampening seems to really improve things. If you are going to take the panels off, you might as well do both of them.
 
I ended up buying these speakers for the rear since I found them on sale. In your main post you mentioned you drilled 2 holes to mount these. Did you drill the holes in the metal part of the door itself? I've never drilled into metal let alone a car door. Mind sharing some more details such as a good drill bit size to use? I don't want to mess this up!
It is a little daunting at first for sure, but there is not much risk. The speakers come w/ the mounting ring, screws, and some screw clips.

For the drilling, i have a set of milwakee shockwave bits that made the drilling easy. I can't remember the exact size bit i used, i just compared it to the screws and chose one that is slightly smaller diameter than the screw threads. Somewhere around between 3/32-1/8" bit. I attached the mounting ring thing to the 2 holes it would line up with and then drilled the 2 that did not.

Just a disclaimer, I only know about the LC trim, so I can't promise this holds true for the 1958.

adding noise dampening seems to really improve things. If you are going to take the panels off, you might as well do both of them.
Like @AlexGates says, I highly recommend slapping some noise dampening on while you have the panels removed, even just partial coverage behind and around the speakers makes a big improvement

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That helps a lot. I ordered some sound dampening pads and definitely plan on adding those. Also looking forward to them improving the door closing sound.

I’m still trying to decide on how much coverage I want to go for with the sound dampening since I know full coverage is time consuming and the adhesive is very difficult to remove if you mess up. Definitely going to put some around/behind speakers and on the main open metal parts of the door. I’d expect there’s diminishing returns and much more effort to get it around all the wires and little mounting holes by cutting holes in the mats. Might also put some on the inner plastic of the door card since that also seems popular to do.
 
Wondering if I change my L/R infinity 3032CF with the HertzDCX 100.3 speakers can I use one of the infinity 3032CF for my center speaker.
 
Wondering if I change my L/R infinity 3032CF with the HertzDCX 100.3 speakers can I use one of the infinity 3032CF for my center speaker.
Yes, 1.418" will fit. 1.5625" (JL 3.5) will not fit. It's a depth issue. The Kenwood 3.5 is also an option that will fit, it is 1.4375", and it was right on top of the head unit, so that is likely the max.

The Hertz DCX 87.3 (3.5") is 1.375", so it would fit as well. If you wanted a match across the dash. If the CX100 fits*, I plan on using this for the center to get a match, I will cut the tweeter wires since the DCX is a PEI tweeter, I am sensitive to brightness, and I'm not entirely sure if the tweeter does or doesn't function in the center. Chancellor cut his and he has done a majority of the work/research, so I would follow his lead.

*It will be a height issue, tweeter is adjustable, depth is within range.
 
I was trying to get use of my Infinity's. Thanks for your advice. So L/R Dash Hertz and Infinity for the center.
 
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