you'll be fine with that offset.
Land Cruiser Tire Upgrades?
- Thread starter JPATTERS
- Start date
I should mention that it's a 9" wide wheel. On the wider end of what I've seen others running on a stock setup.
People are running a 285 tire on 18 inch rims without problem so a 17 inch rim shouldn’t be a problem as the diameter of a 285 70 17 tire is nearly an inch smaller than a 285 70 18. The 17 Toyo is 32.7 diameter. The 18 inch is 33.6. The width shouldn’t be a problem.
I'm curious if anyone is running a Toyo Open Country ATIII in P285/70r17. The width seems a little wider than what you'd get on tire size calculator and maybe other brands. Toyo has the width listed at 11.5 rather than 11.2.
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11.5" width with a +40 offset with 9" rim should not be an issue.
I think there is a bit of confusion here. Yes a 285 70 r 17 will sit "flush" because it is nearly the same diameter as an OEM tire (32.7 vs 32.6) inches so it will indeed sit "flush"; however it is wider than OEM, so it will poke out of the spare well a bit more. A 285 70 R18 tire is 33.6 inches in diameter and will sit a bit wonky, but you can still stuff it under there. (im using the toyo at3 numbers, other brands will vary just slightly)
BFG KO3 295/70R18 E (34.3x11.8)
Icon compression 18x9 +25mm
Westcott lift
OEM rock rails
Taco Vinyl roof wrap, grille and door decal
Ceramic window tint 20% in front 80% in rear (trying to match front to rear in darkness)
I was quite worried that the E rated tires would ride rough,… but even at 40 PSI in ~55’F weather they feel very similar to OEM - so glad!
Icon compression 18x9 +25mm
Westcott lift
OEM rock rails
Taco Vinyl roof wrap, grille and door decal
Ceramic window tint 20% in front 80% in rear (trying to match front to rear in darkness)
I was quite worried that the E rated tires would ride rough,… but even at 40 PSI in ~55’F weather they feel very similar to OEM - so glad!
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Haven’t decided on spare yet… likely keep the stock, and then carry tire repair/inflator (less obtrusive than tailgate carrier)
Has anyone had any issues with heavier tires and the US spec 2.4L iForce Max engine? I know gas mileage can (and likely will) take a hit. I'm more concerned with messing up the performance and making the engine feel sluggish or straining the drivetrain. The tire combo (275/70R18 Toyo AT3's with factory 18's) is only an estimated (I'm using figures I've scoured of the web) 6lbs heavier than the stock 20" inch rim and tire combo (at 80 lbs). But the Toyo is significantly heavier than the stock Michelin ATX tires (53lbs and 38lbs respectively) that are on there now.
1958 with 275/70/18 KO3 Load E, here. No issues and I find the power more than adequate. Around town it’s very quick. Passing at highway speeds 60mph and up, I find it a little less than you’d expect. I think it’s because it gives you the impression it’s going to be a very fast vehicle based on how it drives under 50mph. The top end is where there isn’t a lot of grunt for passing.
All that to say I think it’s perfectly fine with my tire choice. I don’t think the stock tires were all that different. I ended up with about a 1.5 to 2 mpg hit and that’s with an added Front Runner Slimline roof rack being added at same time as the tires.
My stock 1958 tire and wheels mounted weighed 71.1 lbs.
Stock tires alone - Geolandar X-CV 245/70/18 weighed in at 38.6 lbs.
Stock wheel with the 275/70/18 load E KO3s mounted are 91.3 lbs.
Stock 18 wheel 1958 edition is 32.5 lbs.
Go for it. The bigger tire size is worth it imo. I’d go bigger if it would fit in the spare area, but that’s the restriction for me.
All that to say I think it’s perfectly fine with my tire choice. I don’t think the stock tires were all that different. I ended up with about a 1.5 to 2 mpg hit and that’s with an added Front Runner Slimline roof rack being added at same time as the tires.
My stock 1958 tire and wheels mounted weighed 71.1 lbs.
Stock tires alone - Geolandar X-CV 245/70/18 weighed in at 38.6 lbs.
Stock wheel with the 275/70/18 load E KO3s mounted are 91.3 lbs.
Stock 18 wheel 1958 edition is 32.5 lbs.
Go for it. The bigger tire size is worth it imo. I’d go bigger if it would fit in the spare area, but that’s the restriction for me.
Did you ever try loading a spare in this size? This toyo is the only pizza cutter I can find above 33" that is not E load. Would have preferred C load but D is an improvement. Next closest size would be 255/75r17 in C load which is slightly smaller than the OEM size.
Hi all, totally clueless about wheels. Just picked up 2025 LC PP yesterday. It came with 18" stock wheels, 265/70 Michelin LTXs. Not happy with the way the car looks.
I wanna buy Sequoia TRD Pro BBS wheels, PN# PT960-34220-2F.
I will not be off-roading ever, so looking to buy 275/70 On-Road AT tires, may be Michelins? : https://www.michelinman.com/auto/tires/michelin-defender-ltx-m-s2
Would this combo work? I don't understand what "offset" means but googling it seems like the outward axial distance from the center of the rim. The stock offset is 60mm, and the BBS wheel offset is 47.5mm. Would this be a problem?
I wanna buy Sequoia TRD Pro BBS wheels, PN# PT960-34220-2F.
I will not be off-roading ever, so looking to buy 275/70 On-Road AT tires, may be Michelins? : https://www.michelinman.com/auto/tires/michelin-defender-ltx-m-s2
Would this combo work? I don't understand what "offset" means but googling it seems like the outward axial distance from the center of the rim. The stock offset is 60mm, and the BBS wheel offset is 47.5mm. Would this be a problem?
Not speaking from personal experience here, but Yes that wheel and tire combo (275/70R18 +47.5mm) will work. The majority of people running non stock offset (+60) are running between +35mm & +45mm. There are several others running that wheel. There are "knock off" wheels though that resemble the TRD Pro BBS Wheels, and I would caution that they may not be the same offset as the genuine Toyota/BBS wheels.
**Note in this video he is not describing the LC250 when he references "Land Cruiser".
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If you will never off-road, why buy A/T tires (I’ll set aside other questions around the decision to buy the vehicle at all)? You will get significantly better on-road performance if you don’t go with A/Ts.
[edit] I see now the tires you’ve linked; they aren’t A/T tires and are the type that would probably suit your use case. [/edit]
Wheel offset is how far the mounting surface of a wheel sits compared to the center of the wheel. Positive offset means the mounting surface is closer to the outside of the wheel, making the wheel sit further inside the wheel well. Negative offset means the mounting surface is closer to the inside of the wheel, pushing the wheel outward for a wider stance. Zero offset means the mounting surface is exactly in the middle of the wheel.
Appreciate the responses. Oh may be I mixed up the terminology. The Stock tires (Michelin LTX Trail) are sufficient, I just want larger diameter as well as BBS wheels for aesthetics.
It's interesting to introspect why I bought the vehicle at all—mainly, I needed a robust car and was going to opt for a 4Runner but the new model is overly-stylized IMO and the new LC looks fantastic—retro/modern and very boxy. So I ended up getting the LC, I have never owned a large vehicle so the first thing I noticed is how robust, heavy duty literally everything is. Even the window motors sound badass! The gas cap opening sounds amazing too.
May be now that I have this vehicle, I can think about going on dirt roads. I've got it reversed: most people buy the car for a given activity, I will now be finding activities given this car.
So to recap, Sequoia TRD Pro BBS wheels + 275/R70 Michelin Defenders LTX?
Michelin's description is perfect for my use case (mostly city driving, perhaps occassional dirt roads):
Thank you again everyone.
Not that you owed me an explanation, but this one was pretty beautiful to be honest. I get it.
And tires are relatively easy to change if you find yourself trying more and more new things off-tarmac.
Apologies for the long response time.
The Bridgestone Duelers continue to impress me, they are great in the winter conditions we are (finally) seeing.
MPG wise I've been 17.5-18.5 the last few tanks, this is in stop and go traffic up the canyon (5000' of elevation gain) and down the canyon in cold temps with preheating to melt snow/ice. I am guessing I'll be back to around 20mpg mixed once I'm no longer stuck in canyon traffic in the cold.
Here is a photo from last night when the storm hit, no slippage anywhere in the decent down the canyon, very sure footed even in packed snow.
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