Fitting 35s with no rubbing on compression

[LCOceans]

Can I ask about this offset issue?
If I want to run 285/75/18 and do some kind of lift (either westcott preload, simple Toyo leveling kit for front, or perhaps Icon or Dobinsons all the way around but nothing higher than 2"), do I need to bother with offset? I do not want poke. Prefer taller and less wide tires and no poke.
What exactly is offset? I believe it is modifying the location of the tire in its position in the wheel well. And is modification (positively) in offset required to fit 35" or is it just a preferred look? Or conversely, does adding the poke (pushing tire to outside) create a higher likelihood of rubbing?

 

[surf fishing offroader]

Can I ask about this offset issue?
If I want to run 285/75/18 and do some kind of lift (either westcott preload, simple Toyo leveling kit for front, or perhaps Icon or Dobinsons all the way around but nothing higher than 2"), do I need to bother with offset? I do not want poke. Prefer taller and less wide tires and no poke.
What exactly is offset? I believe it is modifying the location of the tire in its position in the wheel well. And is modification (positively) in offset required to fit 35" or is it just a preferred look? Or conversely, does adding the poke (pushing tire to outside) create a higher likelihood of rubbing?

Those tires will fit with no lift, that's the same size dissent put on before they went wild with their mods. But - you'll need a little positive offset to push that tire further out of the wheel well so that you don't rub on the frame. Rubbing on liner is ok, that can be fixed

Offset is how far out or in the rim is positioned. I believe the 1958 factory rim comes with a -60 offset. Negative is towards the vehicle center and positive is outwards.

285 is skinny enough, but at almost 35in dia, you'll want some offset to push that wheel out. When you turn the wheel, that overall range of movement needs to be pushed out further from the vehicle center.

A +40 or +35 offset is what your probably needing for those sized tires. That give it a flush look with no poke. You might need to also remove the crash brackets behind the front tire.

Glad toyota made it that way, in the past, you'd have to do something called a body mount chop, which literally just cuts off part of the frame so you don't rub...

 

[Stage7]

You make a great point here about rebuilding the shocks. Something I was not aware of until recently. And I also read depending on which shock you end up with, the time to rebuild can take weeks.

That’s why you buy two sets. I put newer set on and had others rebuilt for the next time. No need to sit out without your truck. Besides no shop is going to keep your truck on a lift while they get rebuilt so unless you’re going to be doing it yourself then two sets of shocks is the way to go. Just my 2 sats.

 

[Stage7]

Those tires will fit with no lift, that's the same size dissent put on before they went wild with their mods. But - you'll need a little positive offset to push that tire further out of the wheel well so that you don't rub on the frame. Rubbing on liner is ok, that can be fixed

Offset is how far out or in the rim is positioned. I believe the 1958 factory rim comes with a -60 offset. Negative is towards the vehicle center and positive is outwards.

285 is skinny enough, but at almost 35in dia, you'll want some offset to push that wheel out. When you turn the wheel, that overall range of movement needs to be pushed out further from the vehicle center.

A +40 or +35 offset is what your probably needing for those sized tires. That give it a flush look with no poke. You might need to also remove the crash brackets behind the front tire.

Glad toyota made it that way, in the past, you'd have to do something called a body mount chop, which literally just cuts off part of the frame so you don't rub...

Other way around. Positive is towards vehicle center and negative is outward. The 1958 stock is +65 I believe.

 

[surf fishing offroader]

Other way around. Positive is towards vehicle center and negative is outward. The 1958 stock is +65 I believe.

Lol, I always get that shit backwards... rushing to leave the office while shooting that last post out, thanks man

 

[Insanoflexathf]

I ordered the Icon offset 40 rims that they offer for the LC. I’m hoping they ship before Christmas. I was going with the 35” 12.5 but might stick with the 11.5 just to ensure that I don’t need any adjustments or trims. I like the westcott preload collars. Have you noticed any difference in the ride since installing them? @surf fishing offroader I love the stock suspension on these things.
Has anyone seen a set of 35s with 11.50s compared to the 12.50s?

 

[surf fishing offroader]

I ordered the Icon offset 40 rims that they offer for the LC. I’m hoping they ship before Christmas. I was going with the 35” 12.5 but might stick with the 11.5 just to ensure that I don’t need any adjustments or trims. I like the westcott preload collars. Have you noticed any difference in the ride since installing them? @surf fishing offroader I love the stock suspension on these things.
Has anyone seen a set of 35s with 11.50s compared to the 12.50s?

The 11.5s still look beefy and good. I went wider for more float on sand, but 11.5 is probably better for mpg, etc...

The spring rate definitely increased, it's a bit stiffer of a ride. It was much more noticeable when I had my 34s on there. With the 35s, those tires are so heavy they just added more dampening. With my tire pressures at 30, it's a comfy ride

 

[LCOceans]

Those tires will fit with no lift, that's the same size dissent put on before they went wild with their mods. But - you'll need a little positive offset to push that tire further out of the wheel well so that you don't rub on the frame. Rubbing on liner is ok, that can be fixed

Offset is how far out or in the rim is positioned. I believe the 1958 factory rim comes with a -60 offset. Negative is towards the vehicle center and positive is outwards.

285 is skinny enough, but at almost 35in dia, you'll want some offset to push that wheel out. When you turn the wheel, that overall range of movement needs to be pushed out further from the vehicle center.

A +40 or +35 offset is what your probably needing for those sized tires. That give it a flush look with no poke. You might need to also remove the crash brackets behind the front tire.

Glad toyota made it that way, in the past, you'd have to do something called a body mount chop, which literally just cuts off part of the frame so you don't rub...

Thank you! Great explanation. I think it comes down to what type of small lift I want, because regardless of tire size, I do want a 1" to 2" lift. Kind of going back to the Westcott for simplicity and cost. And I could always change it later if I want to.

 

[Insanoflexathf]

The 11.5s still look beefy and good. I went wider for more float on sand, but 11.5 is probably better for mpg, etc...

The spring rate definitely increased, it's a bit stiffer of a ride. It was much more noticeable when I had my 34s on there. With the 35s, those tires are so heavy they just added more dampening. With my tire pressures at 30, it's a comfy ride

Thanks for the detailed post on your setup.

 

[b407driver]

"Enjoy your 32s buddy..."

Weak stream.

 

[surf fishing offroader]

Weak stream.

Thanks Jeff

 

[mkg]

That’s why you buy two sets. I put newer set on and had others rebuilt for the next time. No need to sit out without your truck. Besides no shop is going to keep your truck on a lift while they get rebuilt so unless you’re going to be doing it yourself then two sets of shocks is the way to go. Just my 2 sats.

If you live near a half decent offroad shop, its not terribly difficult to rebuild shocks, just takes a few hours and the right parts. Most brands will sell rebuild kits so you dont have to send all the way back to the manufacturer.

 

[Stage7]

Lol, I always get that shit backwards... rushing to leave the office while shooting that last post out, thanks

If you live near a half decent offroad shop, it’s not terribly difficult to rebuild shocks, just takes a few hours and the right parts. Most brands will sell rebuild kits so you dont have to send all the way back to the manufacturer.

ICON sent me to an authorized location near me when I was in Texas for rebuild.