Dealer Negotiations

[I am here now]

Please feel free to mark me as ignore, that way you won't be bothered by anything I post!

Opinions don't influence facts, but facts should influence opinions.

Conjecture is prevalent here. It’s normal for people like you to embrace ignorance. When I’m wheeling nobody’s riding on 20’s. The Land Cruiser is a mall crawler with 20’s. That’s deliberate so the owner’s can feel good about their rig with 8 inches of ground clearance. Why does the only mall crawler 4runner limited come with 20’s? It’s the least off road vehicle in their fleet. It’s not made up you fool.

 

[bluebullet]

Even for the occasional weekend warrior who only plans to bomb around on US Forest Service roads, and mild off road driving the more sidewall you can get the better. I will not get into airing down, because without bead lock wheels and pretty good sized tires that is not terribly practical for most.

However, that 1” of extra sidewall compliance on the tire will still make a difference in tire longevity in the event you do find it rubbing on rocks or other hazards. Plus the tires are the first part of the vehicle suspension in contact with the ground, those balloons we roll around on are the initial part of the system for soaking up impacts. Taller sidewalks just soak up impacts better, life is easier on the vehicle and the occupants over rough stuff with tires that can take more edge off of whumps, bumps, pot holes, washboard, etc.

One option for the crowd stuck with 20”s would be to go source a set of 17” Toyota steelies and put some 285/70/17 tires on them or even 285/75/17’s. That will soften things up nicely and put those meats on a set of wheels made for abuse. Then put your 20”s with highway tires back on for Monday-Friday duty.

The only explanation I ever got and believed for 20" low profiles on my 2500HD Chevy was they had less sidewall flex and cornered better on smooth highway surfaces but were iffy in the woods where sidewall punctures are a real possibility. I am waiting on a set of 18" wheels now and wonder what Toyota was thinking. I like my LC Premium and hope it does not end up being an Edsel...

 

[RUN-8]

I don’t think your LC Premium is going to be an Edsel.

As for 20” wheels handling a bit better on pavement it’s probably accurate. If handling and cornering are major concerns then by all means run the 20”s, I would respectfully point out that there are probably far better choices in the SUV and station wagon segment that will offer more on road handling and refinement than a Land Cruiser.

 

[Muddygriff]

Even for the occasional weekend warrior who only plans to bomb around on US Forest Service roads, and mild off road driving the more sidewall you can get the better. I will not get into airing down, because without bead lock wheels and pretty good sized tires that is not terribly practical for most.

However, that 1” of extra sidewall compliance on the tire will still make a difference in tire longevity in the event you do find it rubbing on rocks or other hazards. Plus the tires are the first part of the vehicle suspension in contact with the ground, those balloons we roll around on are the initial part of the system for soaking up impacts. Taller sidewalks just soak up impacts better, life is easier on the vehicle and the occupants over rough stuff with tires that can take more edge off of whumps, bumps, pot holes, washboard, etc.

One option for the crowd stuck with 20”s would be to go source a set of 17” Toyota steelies and put some 285/70/17 tires on them or even 285/75/17’s. That will soften things up nicely and put those meats on a set of wheels made for abuse. Then put your 20”s with highway tires back on for Monday-Friday duty.

I’m just getting into this wheeling business. What is the hassle factor of switching wheels back and forth?

 

[EOD Guy]

I’m just getting into this wheeling business. What is the hassle factor of switching wheels back and forth?

To be honest...... storage!

 

[RUN-8]

I’m just getting into this wheeling business. What is the hassle factor of switching wheels back and forth?

Well you need a jack, and tools to change them, plus a place to store them.

The nicer your tools the less ass pain is involved assuming you have a place to store the tires and wheels. If you have a 3 ton hydraulic floor jack, jack stands, a cordless 1/2” impact wrench (with the correct socket), and a torque wrench you’re in good shape.

 

[Altitude]

Tat's an interesting point. However, i thought you gain only 1" sidewall when going from 20 to 18" wheels as it's the diameter and only the part on the ground matters, is that correct? Also, when I looked at the 20" stock rims and tires it at least visually looked to me that you can easily hit a curb with the rims.......

I have a Tahoe with 20” wheels and 55 profile tires. Knock wood, in 8+ years and 115,000 miles I haven’t scraped the rims much at all, and I’ve definitely hit a few curbs along the way where I was dreading getting out and looking…

 

[Muddygriff]

Should I get the factory steel skid plates added, or is after market better/cheaper?

 

[bluebullet]

Should I get the factory steel skid plates added, or is after market better/cheaper?

Go for factory if you can get them. I could not as my dealer had nothing to offer. Just wanted me out of there quickly. Findlay Toyota Spokane.