Dead Battery again!

Well the battery should last more than a few hours so I would definitely replace it. If you are worried on long trips, or don't want to bring a batter backup system, a solar panel connected to the battery is a nice mod that does not hurt the look and is easy to install. I have one on my 2023 Tacoma, I just let the battery drain as much as I want, zero issues.

 
Working on the LC today, had the doors open for about 2 hours and the battery went flat again. This is the 4th or 5th time, so out it came and going to replace it with an optima, if I can find one!
I have been having issues with battery and computer as well. I had the back hatch door open for several hours loading up gear for my first off-road trip. Went to shut it using the button on door and would not close. Tried to start the truck but it was completely dead and computer system would not function. Checked the 12v battery and it was 12.3 volts so not dead. I hooked up a portable booster to jumper in the engine compartment and this brought the computer back on-line. I then disconnected booster and tried starting and it worked fine.

Took in to Toyota dealership last Tuesday but they could not replicate the issue so asked me to bring it back in today. This might be a software issue so the dealership is checking with Toyota and further evaluation.

After this happened I have tried to replicate the issue and did have the back hatch go dead and had to manually close but have not had the computer completely shutdown again.

Has anyone else had the same issue with 12v battery charged but computer shutdown and won’t start?
 
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It's happened to me several times, One thing to remember if the cables are disconnected the "push to start" switch remembers/retails the last position. So sometimes ya gotta push it twice.
 
It's happened to me several times, One thing to remember if the cables are disconnected the "push to start" switch remembers/retails the last position. So sometimes ya gotta push it twice.
If you are talking about the back hatch button I have pushed both buttons 4 to 5 times and sometimes it closes but usually requires a manual close.

Regarding computer shutdown I will report back once the dealer diagnosis is complete. Hopefully they can figure this out as today they could not replicate the issue so asked me to leave the car overnight.

Thanks
 
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If you are talking about the back hatch button I have pushed both buttons 4 to 5 times and sometimes it closes but usually requires a manual close.

Regarding computer shutdown I will report back once the dealer diagnosis is complete. Hopefully they can figure this out as today they could not replicate the issue so asked me to leave the car overnight.

Thanks
"push to start" ..... start the engine button.
 
"push to start" ..... start the engine button.
Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.
 
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Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.
Yup, once the 12v gets the computers fired up, the traction battery starts charging the 12v battery. I purchased a high end jump box that stays in the LC for just that reason.
 
Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.
Why disconnect the booster before starting?
Is there any downside to leaving it hooked up?

What would be the sequence to jump the Land Cruiser?

Hookup booster to 12v battery in cargo area and then disconnect it once the dash comes on, before starting the vehicle?
 
Just curious why not get a warranty replacement from Toyota? Had my 21 Honda CRV battery die in under a year and dealer replaced it. No issues since.

I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.
 
I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.
Ok makes sense. I had my Honda dealer replace the OEM EFB with an AGM type.
 
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I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.
Yepper I now have a spare Toyota wet cell battery.
 
I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.
I love AGM batteries, but don’t they need a specific charging profile to be fully or adequately charged?
 
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I love AGM batteries, but don’t they need a specific charging profile to be fully or adequately charged?
Only if the AGM battery drops below the min voltage for the charger. You can fool the charger by hooking up a second battery, via jumper cables, and it will take a charge (unless it truly is bad).
 
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