Dead Battery

[EOD Guy]

haha. I thought you meant a Citizens Band radio. LOL. nvm! I need one for the logging roads.

I thought as much.......... there is a decent cavity behind the switch panel that's located below the air conditioning controls. The panel is hard to get out, but it pulls straight out. If you wanted to measure one of the CBs that have all the controls on the Mic, you could remove the switch blank and fabricate a holder and pass through for the Mic cord with the blank cover, locating the unit behind the panel......... IDK if it'll work or not. That way if you ever wanted to remove it, just buy a new blank.

 

[EOD Guy]

OK thanks. Yes I could connect right at the battery maybe have cord going in at rear passenger window.
One thing very interesting about the pigtail install for ease I did that on my hybrid F150 and the wind currents under the hood at high speed blew it around and chafed the insulation! Weird and it was secure! So most cars I connect at battery. One car, a Porsche cayman, has a dedicated 12V connection in passenger footwell so I use the CTEK 12V cigarette lighter adapter.
As for heat yes it’s a problem especially on hot summer days. Almost seems to me the CTEK scales current back with ambient temperature. I made sure the LC got into maintain mode and was cool before I left.

When you remove the tray to get the 12v battery trim panel off, there is an additional lower tray that's also removable....... now looking the vehicle floor, there is a rather large grommet cover/plug 2" (maybe) that seems like it would easily come out and allow an extension cord to be passed through.

 

[RUN-8]

When I started my air compressor install, I measured the voltage on the "jump start terminal" under the hood and got 12.5 volts or so. Finished my compressor install, everything went as it should. I also install a 40 amp manual circuit breaker (which I always put on all my vehicles) which allows me to cut power by manually tripping the circuit breaker. When out this morning to run some errands and the battery was dead as a door nail. Opened the door popped the hood, C/B was still tripped and measured 8 volts on the jumper terminal. I had just gotten back from a 900 mile trip, so the 12v battery should have been at full charge.

Now what was interesting was absolutely nothing worked in the vehicle, couldn't unlock the rest of the doors, couldn't open the rear hatch etc..... I hooked up a charger to the under hood jump terminal and after 15 minutes, all the functions started working again.

My conclusion: Installed a battery tender pig tail, which will allow me to easily connect a jump box and Purchased a jump box. Without power you're not going to get the rear hatch open without extreme difficulty in order to replace the battery (if needed). This is the second new Toyota vehicle that the battery has failed within weeks of me owning them.

My personal rule with batteries......... If it goes dead, I check to make so there's not a light that was left on etc...... charge it and if it goes dead again within a week or so, I replace it. Nothing worse then being stranded for a $150 battery.

Do you happen to know the group size of the 12v battery? I have never liked Toyota stock batteries and invariably replace them with an AGM unit, usually the biggest bastard I can cram on the battery tray or compartment. Since the 12v battery still handles starting duties in extreme cold temperatures and we see -25 to -30 a few times each winter I will plan to ditch the wet cell stock battery.

 

[EOD Guy]

Do you happen to know the group size of the 12v battery? I have never liked Toyota stock batteries and invariably replace them with an AGM unit, usually the biggest bastard I can cram on the battery tray or compartment. Since the 12v battery still handles starting duties in extreme cold temperatures and we see -25 to -30 a few times each winter I will plan to ditch the wet cell stock battery.

I don't, but when it needs replacement, I too will go AGM route.

 

[RUN-8]

I hope the compartment the battery lives in has a large enough access panel to get it out and back in easily. Our 2015 SS required me to take the trim apart in the trunk to change it. Many bad words were said.

 

[EOD Guy]

I receiv

I hope the compartment the battery lives in has a large enough access panel to get it out and back in easily. Our 2015 SS required me to take the trim apart in the trunk to change it. Many bad words were said.

When I hooked the charger, the red protective cover covering the actual batt post, would not fold up enough to attach the clamp. That cover is now in two pieces......... still works just like when it was attached.

There was at least one bolt holding an L shaped clamp to the body, easily accessible. Seemed like there was enough room to get it out.

 

[Lineman]

IMO, the Odyssey batteries are the best. I think this is the AGM that is the replacement:

ODP-AGM47 H5 L2​

It appears to be the same size as the OEM.

 

[RUN-8]

Will a bigger one fit I wonder?

More cold cranking amps are ALWAYS better!

 

[EOD Guy]

It almost brought a tear to my eye when I replaced the F250's AGMs this past weekend..... $580 was a hard pill to swallow!

 

[RUN-8]

If it makes you feel any better the last AGM I bought 12 years ago for the Tundra was about $230 for a single battery. Still going strong believe it or not.

 

[Lineman]

I feel your pain. I replaced the 2 Ford junk batteries with 2 Odyssey’s and it was maybe around 780.00. The Ford battery on the passenger side was leaking and starting to corrode the terminal.

 

[RUN-8]

I hate wet cell batteries.

Sorry but aside from being cheap I see no valid reason to equip a vehicle with one. They out gas, leak, dry up, and generally suck. Particularly on an off road vehicle that will get bounced around or operated at weird angles as part of the reason a customer might buy one.