First mod on your Land Cruiser?

Wheels, tires & ~2" lift.
Hoping with the GX coming out earlier that some aftermarket companies will get a head start for when the LC arrives.
 
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A modification so that the back is completely flat after I fold down the back seat - with the aim that I can sleep in the car if needed. And if I end up with the 1958 trim, tires and either seat covers or katzkins as I am a bit worried about how the fabric seats will handle kids and the dog. I actually like the wheels on the 1958 trim - will be keeping them.
 
djnemo said:
A modification so that the back is completely flat after I fold down the back seat - with the aim that I can sleep in the car if needed. And if I end up with the 1958 trim, tires and either seat covers or katzkins as I am a bit worried about how the fabric seats will handle kids and the dog. I actually like the wheels on the 1958 trim - will be keeping them.
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Agreed on the rear platform modification. I'll be building something soon after taking it home. Possibly something modular that could have storage under the platform and level out the rear space and folded down rear seats.
Have a week long Moab/Colorado camping trip planned for September, so fingers crossed!
 
Seems to be a lot of guessing on the vehicle, looking forward to an actual owner on this forum.
Cause Toyota is not interested in giving a lot of feedback.
At this stage there should be at the very least a Frequently asked Questions menu somewhere. Or better still and actual test drive of said LC.
 
if I go with the middle grade LC instead of the FE, adding mudflaps/cross bars on the roof rails with be priority with me
 
I'm going with "it depends" on what mine comes with off the lot. Darker tinting, rims (like my current gunmetal ones), mud flaps. Probably in that order.
 
Probably look at an anti theft system first on the list. Will have a garage to park at home but to drive you actually have to take it out of the garage….lol. Car theft is at an all time high in Ontario these days especially with high end and newer SUVs & trucks.

Anyone hear of or try the Ghost2 immobilizer system. It’s a complex “PIN defined” system to start or move the vehicle.
 
fhb said:
Probably look at an anti theft system first on the list. Will have a garage to park at home but to drive you actually have to take it out of the garage….lol. Car theft is at an all time high in Ontario these days especially with high end and newer SUVs & trucks.

Anyone hear of or try the Ghost2 immobilizer system. It’s a complex “PIN defined” system to start or move the vehicle.
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just pull the fuse out of the car when you park outside your home, try to pull hybrid related fuse such as the high voltage battery relay fuse if exists
that way they can't start the car and can't steal it.
It's a bit tedious but very cheap to do if you infrequently take the car out
 
Confused: Wouldn't the smart engine immobilizer work enough? No smart key FOB, engine won't start? This look similar to what I have on my Subi and it works really well.
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jnsplace said:
Confused: Wouldn't the smart engine immobilizer work enough? No smart key FOB, engine won't start? This look similar to what I have on my Subi and it works really well.
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Not enough, well-equipped thieves have ways to defeat that:
  • key fob signal cloning/amplifying (they have device that captures the key fob signal and tricks the car into thinking the key is inside the vehicle and allows start).
  • new key reprogramming (they use the same software dealership would use to reprogram the vehicle to new key in the event of you losing all your keys)
  • CAN bus hacking (plug and play hacking device that takes advantage of non encrypted vehicle data protocol and injects malicious code and gain access to start the vehicle)
the OEM engine immobilizer all it does is to verify if the preset key is inside or near the ignition. If not, deny start. It doesn't prevent any of those 3 methods above
 
Honestly I think it's about time that we have OEM start rolling out multi factor authentication when you start the car, like when you log into Facebook and it will send you a text message with a code.
We can have that in the car when you get in, you get a text message and punch the code in and then the car can be started. This would prevent most thefts.
 
I’d have to go with M/S or AT tires, possibly in 10-ply. I get out on very rocky roads and often pull a small camp trailer. Time will tell if a 2-3 inch lift is needed with less ground clearance than my TRD Pro 4Runner. Certainly will add rock rails, most likely RCI.
 
Skidaddl said:
I have Falken Wildpeak AT3W's on my Tundra, and really like them. The Tundra has been notorious for chewing through tires in my experience. I've had Toyos, Coopers, and a few others, and I'm pretty happy with the Falkens overall, aside from the fact they throw the odd pepple. Best allround (if perhaps not the most rugged looking) and best longevity so far.
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I have Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s as well. Like the look and gas mileage.
 
For me it will be tint, wheels and tires. Hoping +25 wheels with 275/70/18 will fit with no issues and give a better stance. I don't intend to lift.
 
Bronconomore said:
Going with tint and more rugged tire maybe the new Falken Wildpeak A/T4W
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I asked my dealer if they’d do a credit for the Michelins take offs - he said they have a couple of tire shops they work with and he’d look into it. Looking to put 275/70r18 Toyos or BFG KO2s on prior to delivery -

Might be worth checking with your dealers to see if you can get a take off credit.
 
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