What offset spacing for Method 318?

juicyjonathan

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Wanting to upgrade the stock rims on my 1958 to these Method 318 below, but which offset spacing should I get? What is the difference?

 
Wanting to upgrade the stock rims on my 1958 to these Method 318 below, but which offset spacing should I get? What is the difference?

That’s a great wheel if you don’t mind poke. Bead grip technology is legit.

Wheel offset is the distance from the wheel’s mounting surface to its centerline, measured in millimeters. Positive offset means the mounting surface is closer to the front of the wheel, making it sit inward. Negative offset means the mounting surface is closer to the back, pushing the wheel outward. Zero offset means the mounting surface is exactly at the centerline.

See my photos on my profile for an example of how a zero offset wheel protrudes (“pokes”) outward. Others here have posted photos with Methods with a +25 offset. You can also get these wheels with a +40 offset, but only in an 18” wheel which will limit tire options.

For reference the stock wheel is a +60 offset. The greater the positive offset the closer the wheel will tuck into the wheel well. The closer to 0 you get the more the wheels will poke out.
 
Hmm.

The smaller the number (including negative numbers) the more the wheels will stick out from the vehicle. The larger the number the less the wheel will stick out from the vehicle.

Your stock wheels have +60 offset, and they don’t stick out from the vehicle at all. My aftermarket wheels are a 0 offset and they stick out from the sides quite a bit. Click my profile for photos.
 
Zero offset gives poke:
IMG_0021.jpeg


+60 offset does not give poke:
IMG_9251.jpeg
 
What do these options mean as far as the inches etc.?
I don't have any preferences on poke.
I don't understand why anyone would desire for the wheel to tuck further into the wheel well or vice versa. I guess I would want my wheels to sit as close with stock as possible.
 

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What do these options mean as far as the inches etc.?
I don't have any preferences on poke.
I don't understand why anyone would desire for the wheel to tuck further into the wheel well or vice versa. I guess I would want my wheels to sit as close with stock as possible.
The inches measurement is the backspacing - the measure from the mounting point to the back edge of the wheel. You can see it grows with the increase in offset (the mounting point moving from the center of the wheel outward to the outside edge of the wheel).

Advantages of high offset:
- OEM looks (aesthetics are subjective though)
- Cleaner vehicle with less chance of rock chips (the tires protruding out causes a portion of the debris being flung to hit the side of your vehicle)
- Wheels better tuck into the wheel well when the suspension is compressed
- Less stress on the steering components

Advantages of low offset:
  • More aggressive looks (aesthetics are subjective though)
  • Better cornering stability (probably not important if you’re not taking it to track days)

There are very few practical advantages to having wheel poke.
 
So if I wanted minimal poke, which of these options am I choosing in that screenshot?
 

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So if I wanted minimal poke, which of these options am I choosing in that screenshot?
I've gone into detail on this topic in a few places on the forum. The simple answer to your question is to buy the 18 x 8.5 +40 to get a wheel that will work the best with our LC. Changing the offset from the OEM design can have adverse affects on the suspension geometry (here's a great video that helps with the visualization from Tinkerer's Adventure: 4 Tips to Actually Fit Tires on Toyota IFS)

Here's a link to my post on the Method 703 & Falken WildPeak AT4Ws I put on my LC. tl;dr. Be warned...it's detailed!
 
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