What fuse is everyone tapping for the ignition/accessory for these switch panels ?
Switch Pro Power system or similar *help
- Thread starter yoadriantrd
- Start date
So I got curious and started poking around with my multimeter.
In 3rd picture, in the lower right, that fuse block are ACCY. It looks like there are two blanks (next to the 10a fuses), there isn't an output for those two fuse slots but they are "Hot" in ACCY. I purchased some "add a fuse" and plan on using that to plug into one of the blanks and power my ACCY Buss bar. Should work.
The main wire bundle enters the PDC on the Dvr's side, lower, front corner. There should be enough wiggle room to slip in one more wire....... we'll see.
In 3rd picture, in the lower right, that fuse block are ACCY. It looks like there are two blanks (next to the 10a fuses), there isn't an output for those two fuse slots but they are "Hot" in ACCY. I purchased some "add a fuse" and plan on using that to plug into one of the blanks and power my ACCY Buss bar. Should work.
The main wire bundle enters the PDC on the Dvr's side, lower, front corner. There should be enough wiggle room to slip in one more wire....... we'll see.
Accronym police here. What do you mean by PDC?
Power Distribution Center..... AKA "under hood fuse box"
I managed to snake a wire through the wiring fixture (3rd photo above, top L/H corner). It was pretty easy, detached the fixture from the box (two tabs), snaked a pull wire from the split in the EOM loom through the fixture (all the brightly colored wires), and pulled my yellow trigger wire through.
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It seems like a lot of people add stuff to their vehicles, alot of people end up with what I call spaghetti wiring...... wires spliced into wires that are spliced into another wire and that wire gets spliced into another wire etc......... just a jumble. It makes sense when you first do it, but in a year when you go back and look at it, you say WTF.
I like to isolate any wiring that I install from the OEM system as much as possible. So I use an unused terminal in the fuse box (only hot when the key in the "run" position) to power a relay that, in turn, powers a Buss Bar, that way any switches I install will only work when the key is 'On". My switches then power relays that powers my stuff (air comp, lights, running boards etc).
On trucks where the battery is where it's supposed to be, I will hook high amp items directly to the batt terminal, but the LC has the battery in the rear so that would be a lot of wires running to the back. I chose it install a high amp Buss bar that ties into the under hood main 12v feed and run any of my stuff to that. It was a chore to get it install next to the air cleaner, but I managed to get it mounted.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #9
Got pics?
Search for "EOD Guy's Ride"
Looks great! Price is just as great, think I'll stick to my relay bank.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #13
I just ran power from the back to the front and added connectors to my switch pro.
Yeah, on sale for $1000.
I can’t believe more people aren’t running the Garmin Switch. Works in the Garmin app and CarPlay if you’re in the iPhone ecosystem. Ran two of them in my last truck that had no accessory switches inside. Never failed me once.
Just can't spend that much money on a switch. My entire set up (6 fuse protected, switched relays, plus a 40 amp resettable circuit breaker) was less than $100. Now I did have to run wires to the OEM style switches (no drilling required) and had to purchase the OEM style switches for $50 (no drilling or velcro required) The wiring from my relay bank to the accessories would be the same as with a Pro-style multi switch set up, so that's a wash.
Or the trigger six shooter…
