New wheels and pizza cutters

I really wish there was an SL rates tire in the 255/80r17 size. I personally will not use an LT tire, especially not an E rated tire. Like most of us, the majority of my driving is on the road and 10-ply E rating is much stiffer and less compliant compared to passenger tires. In my opinion it only makes sense for a dedicated rock crawler or extremely heavy trucks, much heavier than our LCs.

This leaves the only two decent options at 33”, 275/70r18 and 285/70r17. I’m really debating these two. If there was a higher offset 17” wheel I’d probably go with that. I think there would still be some poke on the +35 offset 17” wheels with the 285s on the 1958, and I’m worried it will result in flinging things at the paint. Also probably compromises scrub radius too much. Leaning towards an 18” and only really prefer 17 for the aesthetics.
I saw exactly the same thing, but decided to go with the 255/80R17 E load. Here's the catch (at least for me) - I kept my 20" OEM wheels. So, I'll mostly run the E-load tires when I take my LC off-road. The more durable sidewall will definitely be a plus when I'm climbing on a trail in the mountains. I'll eventually replace the OEM Geolanders with something that looks and performs better as a daily driver. I'm pretty certain the 285/70R17 will fit with no rubbing, especially if you aren't off roading it.

I don't find my E-load WildPeak AT4Ws to be excessively harsh in comparison to the 20" OEM tires. But, occasionally we hit a pothole or bump on the highway and it's definitely noticeable.
 
I saw exactly the same thing, but decided to go with the 255/80R17 E load. Here's the catch (at least for me) - I kept my 20" OEM wheels. So, I'll mostly run the E-load tires when I take my LC off-road. The more durable sidewall will definitely be a plus when I'm climbing on a trail in the mountains. I'll eventually replace the OEM Geolanders with something that looks and performs better as a daily driver. I'm pretty certain the 285/70R17 will fit with no rubbing, especially if you aren't off roading it.

I don't find my E-load WildPeak AT4Ws to be excessively harsh in comparison to the 20" OEM tires. But, occasionally we hit a pothole or bump on the highway and it's definitely noticeable.
I saw your helpful posts which put me onto the pizza cutters in the first place. I’m looking for one do it all tire though and would only be taking this new vehicle on moderate off road trails at most. I figure that a C line would be “fine” but given my use case an SL makes more sense.

And yes, the 285/70R17 will fit fine but will just have a little poke. Not sure if there’s a risk of flinging rocks at the paint so I’d prefer a slightly narrower tire.
 
I saw your helpful posts which put me onto the pizza cutters in the first place. I’m looking for one do it all tire though and would only be taking this new vehicle on moderate off road trails at most. I figure that a C line would be “fine” but given my use case an SL makes more sense.

And yes, the 285/70R17 will fit fine but will just have a little poke. Not sure if there’s a risk of flinging rocks at the paint so I’d prefer a slightly narrower tire.
From everything I've read and experienced, the do-it-all tire doesn't exist. We just have to find the one that best fits our individual needs. I definitely prefer the pizza cutter, but the 285 will poke out an extra 1.25". I think your concern about throwing debris up at the LC is a valid concern. I've ordered some of the JDM mudflaps for my LC, partially because I think they'll do a better job blocking those rocks. And, thanks for saying my post was helpful :)
 
From everything I've read and experienced, the do-it-all tire doesn't exist. We just have to find the one that best fits our individual needs. I definitely prefer the pizza cutter, but the 285 will poke out an extra 1.25". I think your concern about throwing debris up at the LC is a valid concern. I've ordered some of the JDM mudflaps for my LC, partially because I think they'll do a better job blocking those rocks. And, thanks for saying my post was helpful :)
Thanks for sharing your experience! These expensive tires last so long that I don’t want to make the wrong decision. I agree, every tire is a compromise because on road and off road prioritize opposite qualities in a lot of ways.

Personally I do a lot more on road driving and can’t practically have two sets of wheels, so I made the decision to go with a Terra Grappler G3 in 275/70r18 SL. I can use my stock wheels to start which will place them in the wheel well, and it gives me the extra ground clearance I want. If I find they’re not cutting it off road for me I’ll look into an LT tire but this seems like a decent starting point.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience! These expensive tires last so long that I don’t want to make the wrong decision. I agree, every tire is a compromise because on road and off road prioritize opposite qualities in a lot of ways.

Personally I do a lot more on road driving and can’t practically have two sets of wheels, so I made the decision to go with a Terra Grappler G3 in 275/70r18 SL. I can use my stock wheels to start which will place them in the wheel well, and it gives me the extra ground clearance I want. If I find they’re not cutting it off road for me I’ll look into an LT tire but this seems like a decent starting point.
I look forward to hearing how these work out for you!
 
I was just about ready to pull the trigger on the AT3 255 80 17's but I just wanted a little feedback on how the E rated tire performs. I have only ever had E rated tires once, and they were jarring to say the least. I can get the 34 10.5 17 in a D rated version that is 4lbs heavier per corner and just under a half inch taller (reality is the E rated probably is still taller in the real world). Im sure you all had the same questions, just curious what factors you considered. Im going with Toyo. In Az, so wet performance is moot. Dry performance I love the toyo feel. Thoughts?
The E rated tires (Yokos) in my experience on the LC250 aren't noticeably any harsher than the OEM 20" setup I removed. I also have the E rated Falkens (AT4W) on my 40 and they don't seem harsh either.

I didn't get the Toyo ATIII due to running it currently for the third time (ATII the previous times) on my Tundra and the most recent redesign from ATII to ATIII is down right dangerous in the rain. I've slid on the freeway at 50 MPH (less than six month old tires at maybe 10k miles) on a corner with the new ones that I never had happen previously with the ATII, but both suck in the rain which is why they are out on the LC250. I will change to something else on the Tundra once they are worn.

My #1 consideration was trying to achieve zero weight gain while gaining traction and height which I achieved by both the light wheels and the tires.

#2 was they have to perform in the rain on the road (Western Washington)

#3 wanted them flush with the fenders

#4 had to be pizza cutters, they perform much better in most offroad situations, and less impact to scrub radius.
 
TPMS sensor also works on 17x7J ET60 Tacoma OEM steel wheels: 42601-AK031 (Black) this will be my spare once it comes in from Toyota.
Question for you on this. Where did you find that the offset is 60mm for these wheels? It's not published on any of the part pages, and one speculation based on a photo of the wheel's engravings is that the offset is 24mm: Black Steelies - test fit

Lastly, would the stock TPMS sensors that come with the Land Cruiser 18" wheels work with these 17" steel wheels? In your post you mentioned Tacoma TPMS sensors so not sure if there's some incompatibility and if I wanted these wheels I'd need to buy new sensors.
 
Question for you on this. Where did you find that the offset is 60mm for these wheels? It's not published on any of the part pages, and one speculation based on a photo of the wheel's engravings is that the offset is 24mm: Black Steelies - test fit

Lastly, would the stock TPMS sensors that come with the Land Cruiser 18" wheels work with these 17" steel wheels? In your post you mentioned Tacoma TPMS sensors so not sure if there's some incompatibility and if I wanted these wheels I'd need to buy new sensors.
The Dimension is stamped on the wheel. 17x7J 60, the 24 stamp is date of manufacture. The fitment of these (poke) is the same as the OEM 20" @ ET60 that I removed.

For the TPMS, short answer is yes. T

he Tacoma part number is exactly the same sensor that comes on the OEM stock wheels of all the LC250, the Pacific (Manufacturer) P/N: PMV-G0001 is the same for the LC250 and the Tacoma even though the Toyota part numbers are different.
 
The Dimension is stamped on the wheel. 17x7J 60, the 24 stamp is date of manufacture. The fitment of these (poke) is the same as the OEM 20" @ ET60 that I removed.

For the TPMS, short answer is yes. T

he Tacoma part number is exactly the same sensor that comes on the OEM stock wheels of all the LC250, the Pacific (Manufacturer) P/N: PMV-G0001 is the same for the LC250 and the Tacoma even though the Toyota part numbers are different.
Thank you! You are the first person to confirm with certainty the offset of these wheels on the internet. I even asked a Toyota parts department and they said they would need to open the box and measure it to tell me.

This makes these steelies even more desireable because they are just about the ideal offset unless you're running super wide tires. I'd definitely prefer 60mm OEM offset over 35mm of the expensive aftermarket wheels.
 
Thank you! You are the first person to confirm with certainty the offset of these wheels on the internet. I even asked a Toyota parts department and they said they would need to open the box and measure it to tell me.

This makes these steelies even more desireable because they are just about the ideal offset unless you're running super wide tires. I'd definitely prefer 60mm OEM offset over 35mm of the expensive aftermarket wheels.
Word of caution though, installed on the front they are very very tight to the brake caliper to the wheel face and the wheel is also close to the upper control arm. In stock form the control arm isn't an issue but not sure about with a spacer lift or extend travel lift if they would work out in the front? Also much wider than the 255 and the tire could start being an issue to the upper control arm as well.
 
Word of caution though, installed on the front they are very very tight to the brake caliper to the wheel face and the wheel is also close to the upper control arm. In stock form the control arm isn't an issue but not sure about with a spacer lift or extend travel lift if they would work out in the front? Also much wider than the 255 and the tire could start being an issue to the upper control arm as well.
Thanks for the heads up. Is the part with very low clearance against the top surface of the caliper? If so then that seems like it shouldn’t pose a problem as long as there’s no contact.

Thankfully I’m not planning on doing any suspension modifications, and the wheel I’m looking at is only slightly wider than 255. It’s a 33.5 (Toyo open country 34x10.5r17), and it looks like it would fit almost exactly the same as the stock tire/wheel

 
Thanks for the heads up. Is the part with very low clearance against the top surface of the caliper? If so then that seems like it shouldn’t pose a problem as long as there’s no contact.

Thankfully I’m not planning on doing any suspension modifications, and the wheel I’m looking at is only slightly wider than 255. It’s a 33.5 (Toyo open country 34x10.5r17), and it looks like it would fit almost exactly the same as the stock tire/wheel

The part that near is along the wheel face where the round hole are on the wheel and at the top and bottom of the caliper, no more than 3/32" of clearance. Not a big issue I don't think, if some gravel got in there it would be turned to dust and you'd likely hear it pop or something along those lines. More worry some would be bending the wheel while off road if in some major rocks and hitting that surface hard on a side slip.

Obviously if this happened you have to change the wheel anyway and that would be an extreme event to cause that so it would likely be your least concern. I wouldn't hesitate to run these in stock form suspension if you like the look.
 
Changing pressures to somewhere between 35-40 psi after doing the math on matching Toyota load from OEM tires to new tires. Will chalk test starting at 40 psi and work down to 33 psi. Will probably run them at 38 psi to cover my worst use case scenario unless chalk test doesn't work out in that range.

Toyota OEM recommended 33 psi with tire load rated at 2469 lbs. @ 51 psi = load per tire of 1597.588 lbs. @ 33 psi for total load capacity of 6390 lbs. (93%)

Yoko AT4 is 3197 lbs. at 80 psi = 40 psi @ 1598.5 lbs. for total load capacity of 6394 lbs. (93% of max load capacity), 33 psi on these equates to 5275 lbs. (~ Vehicle plus driver and fluids). I'll likely never exceed 6000 lbs. (38 psi) and most use will be at or below 5500 lbs. (35 psi). So for what I determined inflation range for these on the LC250 is 33 psi (min load capacity, ) and 43 psi (max load capacity).
Agree, still waiting on Nitto Engineering to respond the dealership says 33-34 is enough for the ridge grapplers. I’ve had 5 sets between 37’s on my diesel to 35’s on wrangler and expedition. 33-34 is not enough the edge of the tread hits the pavement.
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Thank you! You are the first person to confirm with certainty the offset of these wheels on the internet. I even asked a Toyota parts department and they said they would need to open the box and measure it to tell me.

This makes these steelies even more desireable because they are just about the ideal offset unless you're running super wide tires. I'd definitely prefer 60mm OEM offset over 35mm of the expensive aftermarket wheels.
I can't believe no one knew that the 60 stamped on the casting is the offset. Here's a new video that shows you how offset and tire size are related to fitment. The guy who does Tinkerer's Adventure has done a few videos about this topic, but this might be his best.

 
I can't believe no one knew that the 60 stamped on the casting is the offset. Here's a new video that shows you how offset and tire size are related to fitment. The guy who does Tinkerer's Adventure has done a few videos about this topic, but this might be his best.


Yes! I watched this very video yesterday and it’s why I’m really glad that these Steelies have the OEM offset. We’re lucky that the LC wheel well is so generously spacious that we can fit decently sized tires without issue and with high offsets. If the wheels were +25, I probably wouldn’t run them.
 
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