Method +35 Photo Request

[KWLC250]

I'm considering going with a set of Method 703 +35 offset wheels. I'm debating between those and something with a +40 or +45mm offset. If you have a set of Method wheels with a +35 offset and have a tire close in size to a 285/70R17 (11" wide), can you post photos of the amount of poke you're getting? (I'm looking to get just a slight amount of sidewall poke, without sending stripes down the side of the truck). Thanks!

 

[uraniumrich]

You should search the forums - lots of posts about Method 703s. Here's a link to my post

Method 703 (17" +35, Gloss Titanium)+ Falken Wildpeak AT4W 255/80R17​

 

[KWLC250]

You should search the forums - lots of posts about Method 703s. Here's a link to my post

Method 703 (17" +35, Gloss Titanium)+ Falken Wildpeak AT4W 255/80R17​

Yeah lots of posts, I even started this thread all about Poke. But I haven't been able to find a good photo specifically of the poke with this tire/wheel combo.

 

[LouNYC]

90% of LC's on this forum have Method's on them. Look at the media tab.

 

[KWLC250]

90% of LC's on this forum have Method's on them. Look at the media tab.

Agreed, and trust me I have. Just putting a request out there for a specific photo of the amount of poke with a specific tire/wheel combo.

 

[uraniumrich]

Yeah lots of posts, I even started this thread all about Poke. But I haven't been able to find a good photo specifically of the poke with this tire/wheel combo.

You may know this already - the amount of poke is not only dependent on the wheel offset, but also the rim width. You can have two wheels with different offsets & different widths, but still have exactly the same amount of poke. Additionally, the tire manufacturers measure the width between the sidewalls for an unloaded tire. So, the actual width will depend on the tire pressure and the construction of the tire.

When I originally picked out the 703, I was going to use a larger tire (both in diameter and width), but went with the pizza cutters because they not only look great on the LC, but also because pizza cutters tend to perform better off road. And, they were cheaper (nice benefit, but not the driving factor for me.) I was certain that I didn't want to get my paint marred by huge tires throwing dirt and rocks all over my LC. Based on what I can see with my FE style mudflaps, anything wider than the 255 I used would likely throw rocks and debris past the mud flaps and onto the side of my LC. If you prefer the 285, then go with it. The additional poke is only 0.6" compared to the 255, in theory. RokBlokz makes an XL mud flap that may offer slightly more protection than the FE style mud flap.

 

[KWLC250]

You may know this already - the amount of poke is not only dependent on the wheel offset, but also the rim width. You can have two wheels with different offsets & different widths, but still have exactly the same amount of poke. Additionally, the tire manufacturers measure the width between the sidewalls for an unloaded tire. So, the actual width will depend on the tire pressure and the construction of the tire.

When I originally picked out the 703, I was going to use a larger tire (both in diameter and width), but went with the pizza cutters because they not only look great on the LC, but also because pizza cutters tend to perform better off road. And, they were cheaper (nice benefit, but not the driving factor for me.) I was certain that I didn't want to get my paint marred by huge tires throwing dirt and rocks all over my LC. Based on what I can see with my FE style mudflaps, anything wider than the 255 I used would likely throw rocks and debris past the mud flaps and onto the side of my LC. If you prefer the 285, then go with it. The additional poke is only 0.6" compared to the 255, in theory. RokBlokz makes an XL mud flap that may offer slightly more protection than the FE style mud flap.

I've done a lot of number crunching, using different calculators, the "will they fit" site, looking at different wheel widths, offsets, tire widths, manufacturers, sizes, etc. If I had a shop I could go to that had them in stock and test fit them I would.

Based on theoretical numbers, from what I've been able to deduce... an increase (measuring from the sidewall of the factory option LC 18" wheels w/Michelin LTX Trail 265/70R18) of between 1"-1.2" would sit perfectly flush with the fenders on the FE/LC (not the 1958). You can theoretically get that using Tacoma TRD PTR56-35242-F1 18x8 +45 wheels and a 275/70R18 tire or the EVO Dakar Zero 18x8.5 +47 with a 275/70R18. With the Method 318 18x8.5 +40 and a 275/70R18 you're looking at 1.48" increase, by the numbers this should be about the same amount of poke as your 703 w/255/80R17 setup. The 703's with a 255/80R17 should be an increase of 1.4" and should theoretically be around .2-.4" past the fender. I would go with the 318s if they offered them in matte or flat black and not just gloss black. With the Method 703 (or 705) 17x8.5 +35 with a 285/70R17 you're looking at 1.88" or ~.6-.8" of poke outside the fender.

The numbers all seem very small. But in reality . Like you mentioned, I'm not sure if quarter to half an inch of extra poke is enough to throw up enough road to debris to lead to marring. Hoping seeing it visually will give me a clue.

We have a lot of "coral dust" all over our road surfaces, as well as a lot of crushed coral used for driveways and parking lots (including my own) and this can be very abrasive, as well as lots of salt water flooding on the road ways during seasonal high tides.

 

[uraniumrich]

Here’s a shot showing the poke of my 703 255/80R17 combo from the back. It’s pretty plain that anything wider will miss the mud flaps.

 

[LcAz]

This from member ctgallosb method 703 with Toyo 285 75 17

Wind Chill Pearl with new shoes for off-roading: Method and Toyos

Toyo Open Country A/T 3s (285/75/R17) over Method 703s (17x8.5 with +35 offset). I had read and seen for many posters this was the biggest without any lift needed. I left the original size spare under the vehicle and will use for emergency exits. I didn't choose black wheels because I already...

www.landcruiserforum.com

 

[D-mac]

Based on what I can see with my FE style mudflaps, anything wider than the 255 I used would likely throw rocks and debris past the mud flaps and onto the side of my LC. If you prefer the 285, then go with it. The additional poke is only 0.6" compared to the 255, in theory. RokBlokz makes an XL mud flap that may offer slightly more protection than the FE style mud flap.

In Japan (and I think Australia), 'poke' is illegal, probably for the reasons you suggest. Typically, their wheel/tire fitments will avoid poke and they will do a plumb line test to verify. I've noticed in Japan they'll avoid pizza cutter tires, but are not afraid to use lower profile 65 or 60 series tires with 265mm+ section widths.

 

[LcAz]

I'm considering going with a set of Method 703 +35 offset wheels. I'm debating between those and something with a +40 or +45mm offset. If you have a set of Method wheels with a +35 offset and have a tire close in size to a 285/70R17 (11" wide), can you post photos of the amount of poke you're getting? (I'm looking to get just a slight amount of sidewall poke, without sending stripes down the side of the truck). Thanks!

So here is my take on your overall question with my solution which works perfectly for me.
I have the Method 703 +35. I went with the Toyo AT3 34 10.5 17 (33.5 diameter). It is a D rated tire (tougher offroad than SL) and only weighs 55lbs, and the spare fits. Rides better than the Toyo 265 70 18 SL I was running. The 34 10.5 17 has essentially the same width as the 265 but an inch taller tire. The benefit is that it doesn’t poke outside the wheel well, but is just at the edge. MPG is the same as the 265 Toyo (18.7). For my use case it was the perfect landing spot.

 

[KWLC250]

So here is my take on your overall question with my solution which works perfectly for me.
I have the Method 703 +35. I went with the Toyo AT3 34 10.5 17 (33.5 diameter). It is a D rated tire (tougher offroad than SL) and only weighs 55lbs, and the spare fits. Rides better than the Toyo 265 70 18 SL I was running. The 34 10.5 17 has essentially the same width as the 265 but an inch taller tire. The benefit is that it doesn’t poke outside the wheel well, but is just at the edge. MPG is the same as the 265 Toyo (18.7). For my use case it was the perfect landing spot.

Was the Toyo 265 SL also an AT3? I was considering the AT3 34x10.5/R17 as well. I was worried about the increased weight. Toyo offers a P285/70R17 in SL that only weighs 46lbs. For me all I really need is an SL. But the dimensions of the 34x10.5 are certainly more appealing.

 

[LcAz]

265 was an SL. It weighed 44lbs. The P285 70 17 is nearly identical to the 265 70 18 in diameter but 3/4 of an inch wider. The width is an MPG killer as well. One of the benefits of a larger sidewall on a 17 inch rim is ride quality. I am running the 34’s at nearly 40 psi and the ride is better than my 265’s at 32 psi. The higher tire pressure offsets the weight difference. At least that is the only explanation I can come up with.

 

[KWLC250]

265 was an SL. It weighed 44lbs. The P285 70 17 is nearly identical to the 265 70 18 in diameter but 3/4 of an inch wider. The width is an MPG killer as well. One of the benefits of a larger sidewall on a 17 inch rim is ride quality. I am running the 34’s at nearly 40 psi and the ride is better than my 265’s at 32 psi. The higher tire pressure offsets the weight difference. At least that is the only explanation I can come up with.

Any issue with rubbing? Did you need to remove or trim anything?

 

[LcAz]

Bone stock, mudflats and air dams included. Articulates fine. No issues. A word of caution on expectations though. Going from OEM to any AT tire you will notice a difference. It will feel clunky and you will notice a difference. AT tires aren’t designed for highway specific driving and it will show. I have run OEM size AT3’s (Toyo), 275 70 18 nitto TG G3’s, and now the Toyo 34’s. It isn’t even close I would do the 34’s again.

 

[KWLC250]

Bone stock, mudflats and air dams included. Articulates fine. No issues. A word of caution on expectations though. Going from OEM to any AT tire you will notice a difference. It will feel clunky and you will notice a difference. AT tires aren’t designed for highway specific driving and it will show. I have run OEM size AT3’s (Toyo), 275 70 18 nitto TG G3’s, and now the Toyo 34’s. It isn’t even close I would do the 34’s again.

I drove 7 hours home from the dealership on the interstate when I picked my LC up, on stock Michelin LTX's. My wife also has an LC, her's came from the dealer with Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 265/70/18. I drove her car on a 8 hour round trip road trip on the interstate. While there probably was a difference, it wasn't enough for me to complain and say that mine drove felt that much better. Granted her Nitto RGs are SL. But I can definitely give the Ridge Grapplers a thumbs up. No excessive noise, no drone, comfortable at all speeds including a steady 85mph. She does say she notices a difference just riding around town when she rides in my car.

 

[teghogh]

I'm considering going with a set of Method 703 +35 offset wheels. I'm debating between those and something with a +40 or +45mm offset. If you have a set of Method wheels with a +35 offset and have a tire close in size to a 285/70R17 (11" wide), can you post photos of the amount of poke you're getting? (I'm looking to get just a slight amount of sidewall poke, without sending stripes down the side of the truck). Thanks!

What model do you have?

 

[KWLC250]

What model do you have?

I have a Base (LC)

 

[KWLC250]

@uraniumrich and @LcAz did you go with the Method 106.25 to 95.25mm Hub Rings? I'm looking to order the wheel/tire combo thru an online vendor and by default they recommend/offer Gorilla Automotive 106 to 95.1mm Hub Rings. Not sure if I should go with the Gorilla's, order the Method's or order a custom set that's the exact difference between the 703's and the LC Hub (106.25 to 95).

 

[LcAz]

I did not use hub rings. No vibration at all at any speed (well up to 95mph anyway). I asked the shop that mounted the tires, and they said it wasn’t necessary. Rings serve no purpose after the lugs are fully tightened, and I’m not noticing any imbalance, so I’ll leave it at that.