Read through this thread, great work on the measurements. Looks like that was REW? I also have a Umik-1, is there a way to take measurements with REW with sweeps from a file on an iPhone? I have the 1958 with 6-speakers so anything I can do to help this would be great. I wonder if I would have the same trouble fitting the 4” speaker in the driver side dash?
LC Trim base level stereo
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- #62
Good eye, that is REW.
I am not sure about the iphone, supposedly there are sweeps on spotify you could try. I used a laptop running REW with the umik-1 attached, and connected the LC as bluetooth speakers to the laptop to play the sweeps
I think i saw someone was able to fit the 4" speaker up front, but for my LC it was about 1/2" too tall
Didn’t think of the Bluetooth option from the laptop, yeah I can do that. With a 1958 trim I’m not sure what that would yield, I guess a speaker upgrade could be done and then remeasure for the new findings. Really wish I could get at the amp, not sure if I’ve seen where it’s located in a 1958 yet.
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It worked really well for taking sweeps that way, can alternate sweeps to L/R/both in REW and control front/rear from the head unit.
To test the individual speaker ranges, i hooked a bookshelf speaker up outside the LC using speaker cable and one of the harness. From there I measured sweeps from each channel.
The headunit -> dsp -> amp connection seems pretty complex on these, There is a JBL thread with more details.
I have been really happy with my stock amp with infinity reference + morel sub. It sounds like the sub on the 1958 is only for noise cancellation, but i imagine just upgrading the other speakers will help. Some of these speakers (like the ones i use) have a slightly lower 3ohm resistance which makes them more responsive/louder at the same amp levels
Was wondering if a 2ohm load would work. I see Audio Control has a set of 3 1/2 that may fit, but they’re 2ohm. I’ll look again at the Infinity, they also looked nice.
Chancellor, the speaker harness you linked, that works with the dash and door speakers?
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Correct, for the Base LC trim 10 speaker system, all the speakers use that same 72-8109 harness (door, dash, center, hatch)
I think the premium JBL stereo uses some 4 wire harnesses in a few places. I dont know what the 1958 is using, but its probably the same ones i linked
In my 1958 without additional options, I successfully followed Chancellor’s harness and speaker recommendations for the left/right dash and front doors. Didn’t do the other locations yet. Not remotely an audio expert, but it sounds much better to me.
Does anyone know the max height and depth of the 3.5" speakers in the dash?
Well, I have not replaced the dash speakers but I did get in there today to look at that exact thing. My tape measure looked to maxed at 1 3/4” in the front part of the passenger dash speaker due to the AC tubing. Looked to be deeper as you go towards the back. That may be really tight, would like to try a couple first.
Thanks for the info. I am looking at these speakers and I am trying to figure out of the tweeter would be to high and not let the grill sit flat.
JL Audio 3.5”
Got a pair of AudioControl PNW-35 dash speakers. They have a much bigger magnet than the stock dash speakers in the 1958. They fit fine in terms of depth, but like we’ve seen from others, they are just short of the bracket holes on one side. May try the 4” model to see if they can reach the screw holes.
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The dash speaker grill is really easy to pop out and check, i have a feeling there is enough space to fit.
One thing to note about the JL Audio's that you linked is that they have a fairly low sensitivity (86db vs 91db from the infinity) which means they will be harder to drive to loud volumes with the stock amplifier
Well after I posted this I did more research and decided to stick with the Infinity’s as well. Thanks for the info and this write up.
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Awesome. Yea, I think there is not much benefit to getting any higher end speakers than the infinity's (like those nice JLs) unless you are going to add an amp as well. With the way the head unit connects to the DSP and amp, that seems way more complex than just swapping speakers
Did some testing today with the AudioControl 3.5” dash speakers. Sounds fantastic, but, I think I went into protection mode on the amp or something. About 20 minutes into my drive the front four speakers (dash and doors) just stopped playing. When I got to where I was going opened things up and it seemed normal, no loose cable. It was only 5-10 minutes of a stop and when I was done and started her up, it was back playing again.
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Hmm that is not great. I suspect the amp was overheating and going into protection like you said.
What volume level do you listen at with the AudioControl? It looks like those AC have relatively low sensitivity (83dB) and are 3ohm, so they will put a heavier load on the amp.
With the infinity reference speakers (92dB sensitivity) I find volume levels between 15-20 on the LC to be comfortable, using android auto and spotify as a source.
Well, normally that volume level you described is normal for me also. But on the highway at 80mph you tend to bump it up a bit. I was on 42 for volume I think at the time, trying to test out the system as a whole and the upper mids of the AC. I agree, it may be the low sensitivity causing a higher volume needed and therefore throwing the amp for into protection. I don’t think I’m keeping those anyway due to the fitment and now the sensitivity, which you’ve mentioned before. More to follow.
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Ah yea, that's pretty high. My worn out ears cant handle much above around 30 on the volume knob w/ my setup, my sound pressure level meter shows that at around 100dB.
If you are sticking with the OEM amp, i would look for speakers that are 90+ dB/w sensitivity and 3.5-4 ohm resistance.
Those ACs are pretty much worst case scenario for over heating. Going from the stock 4ohm down to 3ohm means a 33% increase in the current (I = V / R) combined with a low sensitivity. More current = more heat
If you are sticking with the OEM amp, i would look for speakers that are 90+ dB/w sensitivity and 3.5-4 ohm resistance.
Those ACs are pretty much worst case scenario for over heating. Going from the stock 4ohm down to 3ohm means a 33% increase in the current (I = V / R) combined with a low sensitivity. More current = more heat
I wanted to take a measurement with my phone db app but since I was playing music from that, couldn’t do it. I think you’re right though, need a 90ish sensitivity on whatever I end up with. This Infinity’s are looking better and better.
