🛠️ Member Build Kevin's 2025 1958 build, "Runt"

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285/75R18 which gives you a 34.83" x 11.22" on stock rims.

There's two downsides though. One is that the tire no longer fits in the stock location, so you have to make other arrangements for a fullsize spare. Also, when you don't have a spare in the stock location, numerous things get a lot more vulnerable, including the black plastic on the rear bumper. I also ordered another stock size wheel to put back in place. Now I'll have a fullsize spare, plus a "donut".
 
These roof rails are from Amazon.com (direct link to the product). Currently they're less than $200 with Amazon's attached coupon. After some additional inspection, they are indiscernible, at least to me, from OEM. I have no doubt they will last and carry things just fine with a proper installation.

Speaking of roof rails, I bought some 2x6s this weekend to aid in sliding the Alu-Cab RTT over from the GX to the LC. Ignore my mess of a garage. Everything has a place, it's just not all in it.

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And today I was able to test the LC in snow/ice. It did great. No surprise.

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Then, when I got home, I installed the new plates. I may move my other plate over after I sell the GX, but for now...

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Did your 1958 have factory bolts in place, or did you have to buy them? If you did buy them, what size and type bolt?
 
Did your 1958 have factory bolts in place, or did you have to buy them? If you did buy them, what size and type bolt?
There are bolts in place to keep the holes sealed. The roof rack came with bolts that were slightly longer than the factory bolts, so I used them, but I believe the factory bolts would have worked.
 
Hey this is a random question but when you disable the ding with this tool, does it also disable the red seatbelt flashing indicator on the dashboard? Or just the noise?
The indicator remains present, and cruise control won't work until the seatbelt is fastened.
 
There are bolts in place to keep the holes sealed. The roof rack came with bolts that were slightly longer than the factory bolts, so I used them, but I believe the factory bolts would have worked.
Good info brother. I have a 1958 as well.
 
Diagnosed at age twelve, 2025 has me limping into my 33rd year of arthritis. With the FJ and GX, the rear doors allowed me to gingerly step up and down to open or close the rooftop tent. With the LC having a hatch instead, it requires a directional commitment when going both up and down. What I've found daunting is doing this with my Alu-Cab tent open. The only handle on my generation of tent is on the lid. When it's open, well...

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So I set out in search of a solution. I was never a big fan of the plastic handle the tent comes with. At some point, UV and extreme temperatures will take their toll, and it will fail. Hopefully, that's not when I'm relying on it to hold me. I decided I needed to add another handle attached to the bottom of the tent. I looked around to see what metal handles were offered for these tents, with the idea that I would buy two and replace the plastic handle as well. I was unimpressed by the options and price points I found, so I broadened my sources a bit.

You know what IS designed to hold an entire person, is made of stainless steel suitable for humid environments, and happens to come with optional finishes, like black? Handicapped grab bars for restrooms. https://amzn.to/4hRX9UD $37 for an 18" bar, $15 for some stainless hardware, and 6 rivnuts later...

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It will never not be awkward to make a rock climber's jump around the rear spoiler, but this gives me a secure point of purchase and the width helps let me lean around the corners to make sure the tent fabric is tucked inside the shell.

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Looks great. “With 285/75R18 which gives you a 34.83" x 11.22" on stock rims” , did you have rubbing before spacers? I am going to use the same size with a Wescott lift and hoping that will do it with no rub and no spacers. Spacers would be next choice.
 
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