How are you Closing your Hood?

Back on the original topic the 1958 I managed to test drive and look at didn’t have an objectionably heavy hood and the prop rod wasn’t difficult to use.

If you find yourself unable to open the hood and use the prop rod, unfortunately there’s a strong likelihood you can’t reach the oil fill or dipstick anyway. Even the coolant and windshield washer reservoir might be a stretch for the vertically challenged.
 
RUN-8 said:
Back on the original topic the 1958 I managed to test drive and look at didn’t have an objectionably heavy hood and the prop rod wasn’t difficult to use.

If you find yourself unable to open the hood and use the prop rod, unfortunately there’s a strong likelihood you can’t reach the oil fill or dipstick anyway. Even the coolant and windshield washer reservoir might be a stretch for the vertically challenged.
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So I'm short............ At least I'm not other things...........
 
RUN-8 said:
Remind not to buy any vehicle you’ve ever owned.

Poor LC. Owner won’t even check the oil once a month.
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We’re supposed to check the oil monthly? Dang. Forgot to do that on the 100 series that I drove for 22 years and 315k miles. I feel bad that my neglect has likely limited the lifespan of that motor.
 
HarvLC said:
We’re supposed to check the oil monthly? Dang. Forgot to do that on the 100 series that I drove for 22 years and 315k miles. I feel bad that my neglect has likely limited the lifespan of that motor.
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My personal rule of thumb is to check every other time I buy fuel. Which is about once a month at the rate I drive.

Depending on the vehicle it is piece of mind or actually important.

With my turbo charged engines it has been important. Both a VW 1.8L inline 4 turbo, and Subaru 2.5L H4 turbo used about a 1/2-3/4 of a quart of oil between oil changes. The Subaru being the more oil thirsty of the two, if driven hard it would consume 1qt in 3000 miles.

My current daily is a 2007 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7L 3UR-FE. Even with nearly 160,000 miles on the odometer it has never used any measurable amount of oil on the dipstick. The vast majority are highway miles on my 25 mile commute, so it always reaches full operational temperature, and I don’t treat it like a race car. Very low stress engine, huge radiator, the engine bay is barely ever hot.

Our old winter beater 2006 Scion tC with the 2.4L I4 never used oil either and got almost exclusively short trips until hail claimed it last year.

I maintain my mom’s 2021 Lexus RX350 with a 2GR-FKS 3.5L V6. It consumes no oil that I can measure, but I refuse to allow it to go 10K between oil changes.

Our soon to be departed 2015 Chevrolet SS with a 6.2L LS3 V8 uses about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart in 5000 miles. OCI is 7500 and I never tolerated that, it got changed at 5000. That engine bay is tight and that engine produces a lot of heat, pulling the dipstick on a fully up to temp engine it’s tough to touch any of the metal and there is usually visible oil vapor/smoke. No wonder it uses a bit of oil.

For me it is an easy way to monitor what is going on with the engine. None of the engines I am describing ever changed one way or the other. Which is fine, I just want to know that it’s consistently within specifications. If an engine suddenly starts consuming more and more oil I would like to know there is an issue before a self protective shut down due to low oil pressure. It might also be handy information if you keep track of it and catch an issue before your powertrain warranty expires.

Only takes a minute while the gas pump is running to check it out.
 
Esquire said:
Always close the hood like the frunk on a 911. Set it down gently to the first "click." Then press it down gently and firmly with an open palmed hand. Wipe handprints clean from said hood.
It is strongly recommended one wears athletic tennis shoes with a lug grip for balance and support.
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Porsche? Put some meat into it son. Close it like you mean it. You ain't gonna hurt it - it's not a tin-thin Porsche frunk.
 
I just drop it from about 6-8 inches. Figure I do that vs finding the one spot that can't handle the load.
 
Valsmere said:
Ok here we go on the GX 550 the "gas" shocks for the hood that we are talking about are actually called Hood Lift Support. the part numbers is the following: 53440-0W590. This number is taken right off a support from my wife's GX. However there are also brackets and hardware that goes along with it. Those I do not have the numbers for. Additionally there are "rights and lefts".
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If you have time, could you please take some precise measurements?
1 - Overall length of strut
2 - From the front edge of the hinge to the center of the bolt (hood parts)
3 - From the front of the curved part of the hinge (or firewall) to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).
4 - From the top of the fender to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).

Thanks in advance!
 

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mayonayze said:
Different strokes, as they say. I typically execute the first few oil changes on a new yota and after that, its the shop handling that. So checking dipsticks for the entire life of my vehicles is beneath my pay grade. And again, without a single consequence shrug
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Yep, my Tundra's hood gets opened by me to fill washer fluid, and again by the oil change guys (usually around 6 or 7 thousand km late of the recommended interval). I also get the cheapest non-synthetic oil every time.

Consequences? I now have 600,000 km (370,000 miles) on that truck and it still runs great Every. Single. Day. (y)
 
EOD Guy said:
If you have time, could you please take some precise measurements?
1 - Overall length of strut
2 - From the front edge of the hinge to the center of the bolt (hood parts)
3 - From the front of the curved part of the hinge (or firewall) to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).
4 - From the top of the fender to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).

Thanks in advance!
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Do I sense a future mod by you EOD Guy?? 🤔😀
 
ultane said:
Do I sense a future mod by you EOD Guy?? 🤔😀
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For sure, it appears the FE has two locating holes predrilled in the hood. Not for a strut mount but rather for aligning the inner and outer structures of the hood during manufacturing. Depending on exact measurement of the ball mount, I think they could be used to secure a fabricated mount. The fender has a dimple in the approx location for the other ball mount, and may be as simple as drilling and tapping a hole.
 
EOD Guy said:
For sure, it appears the FE has two locating holes predrilled in the hood. Not for a strut mount but rather for aligning the inner and outer structures of the hood during manufacturing. Depending on exact measurement of the ball mount, I think they could be used to secure a fabricated mount. The fender has a dimple in the approx location for the other ball mount, and may be as simple as drilling and tapping a hole.
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Since it sounds like you are actually serious...
Also pay attention to the bending strength of the hood where you attach a strut. In these days of weight reduction everywhere they may not reinforce a hood designed for a prop rod the same way as one made for struts.
 
EOD Guy said:
Me...... I lower the hood to the catch, raise it about 3" and let go........... shuts every time.
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Same. I let the weight of the hood drop and latch on every car. This helps avoids bending\denting\cracking the front edge trim. Someone did the press-down method on one of my previous vehicles and left a nice dent.
 
EOD Guy said:
If you have time, could you please take some precise measurements?
1 - Overall length of strut
2 - From the front edge of the hinge to the center of the bolt (hood parts)
3 - From the front of the curved part of the hinge (or firewall) to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).
4 - From the top of the fender to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Will do tomorrow after work I was at a closing today and finally got home late.
 
EOD Guy said:
If you have time, could you please take some precise measurements?
1 - Overall length of strut
2 - From the front edge of the hinge to the center of the bolt (hood parts)
3 - From the front of the curved part of the hinge (or firewall) to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).
4 - From the top of the fender to the center of the strut ball (bottom strut mount).

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
1. Over all 21 3/4
2. Front edge of hinge to center line of bolt 12 3/4
3. Front of curved part of hinge to center line strut ball 4 3/4
4. Top of fender to center line of strut ball 1/2
Hope this helps!
 
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