Best Jump Box?
- Thread starter uraniumrich
- Start date
NOCO would be what I would go with. I'm sure there are many that are fine though.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for the recommendation. What do you like about the NOCO vs. Weego? Any personal experience using the NOCO?
I could be wrong, but my impression from reading the manual is that you don't need a jump box with high current output so much as just a large battery. I got clamps for the 12V output on my Jackery batteries and I'm hoping leaving one of those plugged in for a little while would be enough to bring the computers online.
I had a box from Antigravity years ago that I was never very impressed with. On the other hand, the NOCO GB40 has been excellent. I'd say buy it or larger. I used several NOCO pieces on my previous build and found all of them to be of excellent quality.
I don't have one yet, but that's what I plan to get. They are considered the gold standard in a lot of circles. They have a very good reputation. Check out Project Farm on YT. He tested many jump boxes.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #7
That's one of the reasons I plan to get a small jump box
I don't keep any type of power supply like a Jackery in my LC
I have one of the NOCO GB40's and its great. I used to have it in my Sienna van but moved it over to my LC once I got it. I need to get another one to replace it in my van. I might actually get 3 more so my kids can have one in their cars too.
- Moderator
- #11
I strayed from the battery type jumpers for a new super capacitor type. I was a little skeptical at first and it was a lot more bones to obtain, but after several uses, I am extremely happy with it. The best part is no batteries to keep charged. It uses the residual power in the vehicle's battery to charge the caps and if the vehicles battery is completely dead, it'll get a full charge from another battery in about 30 seconds.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #12
I wasn't aware that anyone made capacitor based jumpers. Do you keep capacitors charged up? Definitely an interesting approach to making a jump starter, but larger and more expensive. I would think this is also less sensitive to temperature variations. Have you had the need to use it on the LC at any point?
- Jan 22, 2025
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- Vehicles
- 2025 Land Cruiser 1958, 2001 Sequoia Limited, 2000 4Runner Limited, 2008 Land Rover LR3, 1983 Ford F100
I have an older (5 years old) Dewalt Porto Power with the air compressor. I haven't used the compressor yet but I recently used the jump starter on my old Land Rover that has been sitting in below freezing temps for a couple of months and the charger started it first try. Last time I charged the charger was 3 years ago so it holds its charge nicely. The charger had also been in my unheated garage all winter. I'm in Illinois so winters are very cold.
I have run my battery flat at least 10 times. I think there's something up with my 12v battery. Anyway, you really don't need any boost power - you are just giving the computer 12V power and then it will use the traction battery. I don't think anybody should drive these cars without one. The NOCO GB40 looks good - I got the "Schumacher 1500A SL1611 Lithium Rugged Jump Starter and USB Power Source". Mine fits in the little compartment by the tailgate - I'd get one that fits there. I have a jackery 1000 explorer when I'm off grid.
- Moderator
- #15
I don't charge it to keep it charged........ whatever is left in after the jump start, is how I store it. In order to use it, you press a button and it automatically charges to 100% before you can use it.
I have used it 3 times on the LC and once on the Taco and twice on a motorcycle. One time the motorcycle battery was completely flat and the jump box was nearly dead and would not charge from the motorcycle battery, I hooked it to the LC and pressed the button and it charged to 100% in less than a minute.......... jumped the bike like a champ.
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #16
It's a little disconcerting to hear that you've jumped your LC three times. What's up with that?!
As with many things on Amazon, I question the numbers claimed by the OEMs. Here's what I can't figure out about the unit...if you connect a capacitor directly to a battery, it will charge up to the voltage of the battery, but never any higher. Someone smarter than me (an electrical engineer?) will have to explain the black magic involved in getting the capacitor jump box to charge up to a higher potential difference than the source battery. Things that make me go hmmm... Having said that, it obviously works as advertised - I saw videos of people connecting the box to dead batteries, charging the box, then using the box to start the vehicle.
- Moderator
- #17
There is a parasitic drain in the Land Cruisers. There is a 20 amp fuse that disables most of the door functions and various other non-essential functions, that must be installed by the dealer (as directed in the Dealer prep TSB, along with the dealer insuring the battery is fully charged before giving it to a customer). It's purpose is to lengthen the time the 12v will retain it's charge during transportation (I assume).
My LC has had the battery drop below the minimum voltage on 4-5 occasions while I had the rear hatch open for several hours, that's the reason I got the box and leave it in the LC. I replaced the OEM battery with an Optima and added a solar charger under the roof rack. Same routine......... with the battery voltage dropping, but so far, it's fired up every time. The LC is not my daily driver so there are weeks that it's not being driven.
Curious.. what is?
I cannot think of anything that I would rather drive than Miss Daisy…
I carry a NOCO GB70 in all my vehicles. This size is probably overkill for a LC, but if you live in a cold climate you'll want to upsize. To my surprise, the GB70 was able to start a V8 engine at -25F on a car that had the lights left on overnight. The starter wouldn't even click before hooking up the jump box, but 30 seconds with the GB70 and it started. My only complaint is that it uses a micro-USB cord for charging, which is annoying in 2025, but not a deal breaker.
