275/70/18 Fuel Economy

Really like my Nitto G3 275/70-18 SL. Put about 2K miles on them. So far road noise is slightly higher, road manners are excellent, fuel economy dropped 2mpg, picked up slight increase in ground clearance, offroad tests coming soon, and overall looks are vastly better IMHO. I’m not a hard core rock crawler so I’m ok with SL rating, but these will see a lot of Forrest service roads and occasional technical trails, should be fine.

I’ve had BFG KO2, Falken WP and Cooper AT3 on past vehicles and these are my first Nitto’s, but based on my early thoughts these might make a run for top of class. Time will tell, but a solid option.
 
Wish I knew how people drive their vehicles and get 25 mpg .
I never got close from new with stock tires . I am not a rabbit driver
You have to be in fake conditions and drive like no one else matters. I have played around with it like crazy, up to almost 5k miles, and that is the only way. But it is unsafe and disruptive to everyone else and this engine is tuned for performance (low end, of course), not efficiency, so not the right way to drive this thing. EPA estimates are designed to get a car approved for lawful use and perhaps to market to the public, but not to indicate anything realistic under normal driving conditions.
 
I’ve been running the stock Michelins at door sticker, which is 33. I’m averaging 21mpg. I may play around with pressure to see if it really matters, but I think for the driving I do, I’m probably about where it’s going to be.

For the folks getting 17-18mpg with the stock tires, I’m thinking there has to be weight added elsewhere in racks, winches etc. just shouldn’t be that big a disparity.

Had the Michelins off road in Anza Borrego this weekend. They performed fine on mostly easy-mid range trails. I certainly wouldn’t go rock climbing with them, but I don’t do that anyway. I’ll ride these until I decide which 275s to replace them with. Intrigued by the Nitto Grappler G3, given the insignificant weight difference.
I almost always run my tires slightly higher - 37'ish on my winters, 41'ish on my AT's. The ride difference is negligible, but I think my economy and wear is better.
 
I’ve been running the stock Michelins at door sticker, which is 33. I’m averaging 21mpg. I may play around with pressure to see if it really matters, but I think for the driving I do, I’m probably about where it’s going to be.

For the folks getting 17-18mpg with the stock tires, I’m thinking there has to be weight added elsewhere in racks, winches etc. just shouldn’t be that big a disparity.

Had the Michelins off road in Anza Borrego this weekend. They performed fine on mostly easy-mid range trails. I certainly wouldn’t go rock climbing with them, but I don’t do that anyway. I’ll ride these until I decide which 275s to replace them with. Intrigued by the Nitto Grappler G3, given the insignificant weight difference.
I added nothing none stock FE and never avg 20mpg
 
Seeing some people on this and other threads saying they have the BFG KO3's in stock size, however that's an LT tire weighing in at 58 lbs! For perspective, the stock Michelin 18's are 38 lbs, (20 lb difference) and the same size non LT tire in the Toyo AT3 is only 43 lbs. - a 15 lb. difference per tire vs the KO3's. I also have discovered rims make a big weight diff. The 18" Mayhem Rampage rims on my Tundra are 36 lbs. whereas I saw somewhere here that the stock LC rims are about 28 lbs or so. Well worth taking these things into account if fuel economy matters.
 
Seeing some people on this and other threads saying they have the BFG KO3's in stock size, however that's an LT tire weighing in at 58 lbs! For perspective, the stock Michelin 18's are 38 lbs, (20 lb difference) and the same size non LT tire in the Toyo AT3 is only 43 lbs. - a 15 lb. difference per tire vs the KO3's. I also have discovered rims make a big weight diff. The 18" Mayhem Rampage rims on my Tundra are 36 lbs. whereas I saw somewhere here that the stock LC rims are about 28 lbs or so. Well worth taking these things into account if fuel economy matters.
I’d love to see a breakdown of stock 18” vs. 20” rims. The 20” rims seem to be about 10 lbs heavier.
 
Certainly understand the benefit of the E rated. I have 275/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT3's on my Tundra. They been a great tire, and haven't really had an impact on my mpg that much. But that's a 5.7 V8 pushing those around.

Most of my offroading is gravel roads and the odd bush trail to get me into a remote section of trout stream, so I can get away with an SL tire. But even a 1/4 - 1/2" of extra ground clearance would be nice - especially for those rutted and rooty trails I often find. But like most people on here, likely around 80% of my driving will be on pavement.
Don’t get E tires, you definitely don’t need them. I’ve been wheeling on much gnarlier terrain than your use case on stock size SL Toyo AT3s.

What I *would * recommend doing is armoring the bottom. At least the engine skid if nothing else. 8.7” clearance isn’t great but it will get you where you’re trying to go and the skid(s) will add a little peace of mind without affecting your economy
 
Don’t get E tires, you definitely don’t need them. I’ve been wheeling on much gnarlier terrain than your use case on stock size SL Toyo AT3s.

What I *would * recommend doing is armoring the bottom. At least the engine skid if nothing else. 8.7” clearance isn’t great but it will get you where you’re trying to go and the skid(s) will add a little peace of mind without affecting your economy
💯
 
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this is a dumb question. Is the poor mpg attributed to the trucking being full time AWD?
Not really. Wife has an AWD Audi wagon with same size engine (but without hybrid). When I drive it conservatively, it will get over 31 mpg on the highway. Toyota spec's show little difference between full time 4wd and non. I think weight and wind load (it's a square box) are bigger factors.
 
Running Nitto T G 3s 275/70/18s sl purchased in October (love them) and got around 19/20 mpg first 3 weeks. Then in Novemeber mpg went down to 16/17 mpg, I used super unleaed 91 (10% ethanol blend) city/hwy/mountain. Out of curiosity though I filled it last week with 91 non-ethanol and mpg bumped up to 18/19. However, cost outways benefits of non-ethanol $4.99 vs ethanol's $3.31 so will go back to "normal" ethanol 🐑:poop:
Probably best to toss all this as a side note living in cold/mountainous area and cold temps -- Hybrid systems don't do so well on mpg during winter... Best to wait for spring to officially report back to greco for more of an idea of optimal situations and once my LC's fully broken in above 5000 miles
 
Running Nitto T G 3s 275/70/18s sl purchased in October (love them) and got around 19/20 mpg first 3 weeks. Then in Novemeber mpg went down to 16/17 mpg,
If you’re in a cold climate the fuel combustion engine will run all the time. Anything around 50F and it will shut off for me occasionally. My winters are usually in the teens Fahrenheit, my mpg in the winter will drop 2-3 for sure.
 
Since we are in the same town, I'll share my experience with AT tires. Short story is our LC has Std size blizzaks for winter and they are great. Will use up the factory geolanders in the summer. I see no need or at least limited need for AT tires.

Ran my sprinter on Toyo Open Country which I had really liked on previous pick up trucks. The only time the Toyos were in their element were in the wet spring and fall. They were fine in snow but simply do not have enough siping for Alberta and BC ice in my opinion. They also were heavy and noisy but were good on soft ground. So the experiment with a single tire was a no go. Sprinter is now on studded Nokians for a couple of years in the winter and they are great the noise isn't an issue in an insulated sprinter. I figured they were overkill for the LC so went with the Blizzaks. I don't think it matters which of the top winter brands I have been happy with Michelin and Conti winter tires as well.

Unless I was using the LC in rocky terrain or really soft terrain I don't see a need for the E rated tires, and I don't see a need to AT tires other than in spring. In the summer I would much rather be on a milder tread for the highway both for noise and for economy.

We had the LC up the spray lakes road this weekend a couple of inches of snow over ice going up to mount shark - the blizzaks were completely surefooted. In Calgary a great place for tires is Spec R Motorsports. I have been using them for years. Great service and great prices.

Hope you are happy with your ultimate choice - it sucks getting tires you don't like!
 
Since we are in the same town, I'll share my experience with AT tires. Short story is our LC has Std size blizzaks for winter and they are great. Will use up the factory geolanders in the summer. I see no need or at least limited need for AT tires.

Ran my sprinter on Toyo Open Country which I had really liked on previous pick up trucks. The only time the Toyos were in their element were in the wet spring and fall. They were fine in snow but simply do not have enough siping for Alberta and BC ice in my opinion. They also were heavy and noisy but were good on soft ground. So the experiment with a single tire was a no go. Sprinter is now on studded Nokians for a couple of years in the winter and they are great the noise isn't an issue in an insulated sprinter. I figured they were overkill for the LC so went with the Blizzaks. I don't think it matters which of the top winter brands I have been happy with Michelin and Conti winter tires as well.

Unless I was using the LC in rocky terrain or really soft terrain I don't see a need for the E rated tires, and I don't see a need to AT tires other than in spring. In the summer I would much rather be on a milder tread for the highway both for noise and for economy.

We had the LC up the spray lakes road this weekend a couple of inches of snow over ice going up to mount shark - the blizzaks were completely surefooted. In Calgary a great place for tires is Spec R Motorsports. I have been using them for years. Great service and great prices.

Hope you are happy with your ultimate choice - it sucks getting tires you don't like!
Thanks for the input, and you're right - your geography definitely plays into the picture. I already have a set of Toyo Observe GSi-6's for winter in the garage, pending delivery of my LC (due first week January). I probably don't NEED the AT's, but I spend a lot of time on gravel and doing solo trips scouting out hidden sections of trout streams in the summer. This sometimes requires some true off-roading on muddy, rutted trails, so the peace of mind of some additional tread given I'm generally doing this scouting stuff solo is worth the investment IMO. How was the snow up at Mount Shark? I'm itching to get out there on the XC skis!

Edit: Hey, do you live in Lakeview? I just checked your media page, and I think I saw your vehicle parked at IGA on the weekend with snow all over the back! 🤣
 
Running Nitto T G 3s 275/70/18s sl purchased in October (love them) and got around 19/20 mpg first 3 weeks. Then in Novemeber mpg went down to 16/17 mpg, I used super unleaed 91 (10% ethanol blend) city/hwy/mountain. Out of curiosity though I filled it last week with 91 non-ethanol and mpg bumped up to 18/19. However, cost outways benefits of non-ethanol $4.99 vs ethanol's $3.31 so will go back to "normal" ethanol 🐑:poop:
Probably best to toss all this as a side note living in cold/mountainous area and cold temps -- Hybrid systems don't do so well on mpg during winter... Best to wait for spring to officially report back to greco for more of an idea of optimal situations and once my LC's fully broken in above 5000 miles
Good to hear. I think I have it narrowed down to the Toyo OC AT3's in 265/70/18, and the same Nittos in the size you have (non-E rated).
 
You have to be in fake conditions and drive like no one else matters. I have played around with it like crazy, up to almost 5k miles, and that is the only way. But it is unsafe and disruptive to everyone else and this engine is tuned for performance (low end, of course), not efficiency, so not the right way to drive this thing. EPA estimates are designed to get a car approved for lawful use and perhaps to market to the public, but not to indicate anything realistic under normal driving conditions.
This isn't true.

My last trip was a round trip from NE PA to southcentral PA, total travel time of about 9 hours. It's a mix of about 2/3 interstate or 4 lane roads and 1/3 two lane roads. On the interstate/4 lane roads cruise was set at 76 mph, average on 2 lane roads was probably 50-55. At the end of the trip the average MPG was 24.1. All in Normal Mode on stock tires with a roof rack and cross rails for those who care about those things.
 
This isn't true.

My last trip was a round trip from NE PA to southcentral PA, total travel time of about 9 hours. It's a mix of about 2/3 interstate or 4 lane roads and 1/3 two lane roads. On the interstate/4 lane roads cruise was set at 76 mph, average on 2 lane roads was probably 50-55. At the end of the trip the average MPG was 24.1. All in Normal Mode on stock tires with a roof rack and cross rails for those who care about those things.
It's 100% true but I just drive normally and not to achieve any efficiency number. 17.5 mpg with OEM wheels going 65-75 mph and 15-15.5 mpg on 35's. 11.5-12.5 mpg when driving "fast" (i.e., 80-90 mph) at a constant speed for hours
 
. How was the snow up at Mount Shark? I'm itching to get out there on the XC skis!

Edit: Hey, do you live in Lakeview? I just checked your media page, and I think I saw your vehicle parked at IGA on the weekend with snow all over the back! 🤣

We do indeed. Snow was about 2 cm over transformed crust. - very fast! We went in from Canmore and out via Kananaskis. the snow on the road was 4-5 cm south of the Mt Shark turnoff. We have been out to Louise as well and coverage is pretty darn good but freshies are always welcome!

I am putting a new summer set on the sprinter this spring and am headed to the Conti Terrain Contact which is a mild AT or Highway AT. The geolanders that came on the LC are surprisingly good on anything that is dry. The only terrain that scares me, in that I am likely stupid enough to gone on, is a soft field. However, I have found that a rarely get stuck when I am walking. I do have traction aids for the sprinter that are usually used for levelling.
 
It's 100% true but I just drive normally and not to achieve any efficiency number. 17.5 mpg with OEM wheels going 65-75 mph and 15-15.5 mpg on 35's. 11.5-12.5 mpg when driving "fast" (i.e., 80-90 mph) at a constant speed for hours

I don't drive for any efficiency numbers either. So what I am experiencing is not true and the only way anyone gets better gas mileage is by driving in "fake conditions"? Right :LOL:
 
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