I have the Prinsu Pro rack installed and have added a few low cost accessories. They may be useful on other racks as well but you'll have to test them out yourself.
Marine grade nylon cleats/tiedowns. "Strength and service life are exactly the same as 316 stainless steel". 4-Pack for $23...
Added some handles for the rack. One on each side and one at the back. Makes it so much easier to climb up and hold on while dealing with things on the rack.
FYI, I hope you know my post was an attempt at humor! Didn't want you ending up in a situation like Joey from Friends when Chandler suggested he change his stage name to Joe...seph Stalin. :LOL:
Uh oh.....you may be stepping on a Trademark. Apparently, Land ROVER applied for a trademark on the term "Landy" in 2014. However, I am a strong believer that Land CRUISERs are far superior to Land ROVERs so they can eat our Trail Dust (and Meteor Shower, and Heritage Blue, etc.). :cool:
I'll let you guys know how they work. If I have to remove and KEEP the plastic rim off the side of the engine bay area (as it shows in an install of a competitive strut on Amazon) I'll probably return them. However, at least we'll have a point of reference that others can use to make a decision...
Yes, this is definitely on my list for when I run wires up to the front lightbar because it tucks nicely against A-pillar on the windshield. However, for the back, I'm not sure how you'd use this.
For this scenario, I'm not looking for power for the booster. Instead, it's to run the antenna wire from the roof rack to the booster which will be installed in the cargo area.
In the image below, it's the orange line I'm speaking of:
Has anyone figured out a way to run wires to the outside of the truck and to the roof at the back? I'm looking to install my WeBoost antenna on the back of my roof rack and haven't found a good way to route the wire to it. The signal booster/amplifier will most likely be installed somewhere in...
I just got back from a 4100+ mile trip in the new 250 and before that I've made multiple trips over the years with my fridge plugged into my Jackery and the Jackery plugged into a 12V supply I'd rigged up in the cargo area of my 200 series. This was always a good, viable solution for me that...
I have found non-slip shelf/drawer liner to be endlessly useful to protect finishes while providing grip and also helping to stop rattles between plastic crates on rough roads. Very cheap on Amazon or Walmart. Just cut out whatever size shape you need.
Yeah, it's really very easy to get that trim out of the way if you need to. Seems intimidating but it's about a 5 minute process once you've done it a couple of times.
I would assume the 2400 would be available at all times that the truck is “running”. I’ve noticed that the truck will still shut the engine down periodically while sitting even if the inverter is powered on. I would have assumed that it would keep the engine running if the inverter is drawing...
I’ve been traveling for about a week now and have some thoughts.
I have an Anker power station that I use to run my fridge 24 hrs. I’be set up a temporary power supply directly cook the 12v battery in the back that is hooked up to a relay so that it is only powered up when the truck is running...
I can confirm that if you plug something into the 7-pin jack that draws a current, the sensors/auto-brake is disabled just as the manual states. A couple of caveats though:
I don't know how much current needs to be drawn. I tried one of those 7-pin to 4-pin converts that had LED's. The LED's...