Transmission fluid change

Has anyone done a transmission fluid change? I've seen the PDF posted on this site (attached), but as you can see towards the bottom that there are more pages that relate to temp and level. Does anyone have this? Thanks.

If nobody has done a guide, I'd like to volunteer for the group so we'll have a good discussion going by the time your mileages are due. I'm not a stranger to fluid changes (see log), but I always try to get as close to factory-approved execution, hence the request for the maintenance docs.

Missing docs


Log: MotorLogBook - get rid of those binders!

cvx5832LC said:

Has anyone done a transmission fluid change? I've seen the PDF posted on this site (attached), but as you can see towards the bottom that there are more pages that relate to temp and level. Does anyone have this? Thanks.

If nobody has done a guide, I'd like to volunteer for the group so we'll have a good discussion going by the time your mileages are due. I'm not a stranger to fluid changes (see log), but I always try to get as close to factory-approved execution, hence the request for the maintenance docs.

Missing docs
View attachment 8441

Log: MotorLogBook - get rid of those binders!

Click to expand...

This!!!^^^^. Thank you. I have been wondering if someone with access to the manuals could put together all the procedures for each maintenance action for every maintenance interval.

cvx5832LC said:

Has anyone done a transmission fluid change? I've seen the PDF posted on this site (attached), but as you can see towards the bottom that there are more pages that relate to temp and level. Does anyone have this? Thanks.

If nobody has done a guide, I'd like to volunteer for the group so we'll have a good discussion going by the time your mileages are due. I'm not a stranger to fluid changes (see log), but I always try to get as close to factory-approved execution, hence the request for the maintenance docs.

Missing docs
View attachment 8441

Log: MotorLogBook - get rid of those binders!

Click to expand...

thank you very much

Looks like we got some interest. If anyone can pull up those missing guides, I'll make a guide by the weekend. Trying not to pay the TIS day fee if I can!

I may have been the one that posted the orig PDF (It looks like my naming convention, not sure as I have posted many) and I didn't download all the related docs because when the time comes for the Xmsn service I'll pay for the flush vs a change. I did want to know how to check the level just in case of a trail repair etc.......

If you still have access, post the remaining docs and I'll post my DIY by the weekend. Ok, maybe next weekend. I have a turbo to work on on my wife's 5

EOD Guy said:

I may have been the one that posted the orig PDF (It looks like my naming convention, not sure as I have posted many) and I didn't download all the related docs because when the time comes for the Xmsn service I'll pay for the flush vs a change. I did want to know how to check the level just in case of a trail repair etc.......

Click to expand...

My subscription expired........

Does anyone know if there is a dipstick or way to check the automatic transmission level. I know if get just a little low doesn't perform as well as should.

I don't believe it has a Xmsn dipstick

I've been collecting every TIS pdf i see on the forums, here's what I've got for Transmission Fluid.

Don't be in a hurry to change your automatic transmission fluid. "It’s important to change your transmission fluid, but the type of transmission you have affects your ideal changing interval. If you drive manual, most manufacturers will recommend changing your transmission fluid every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. If you have automatic, you can typically boost that range up to 60,000 to 100,000 miles."

Thank you, all. I have what I need to proceed. When I get it done I will follow this up with a pictorial and a summary of my experiences to augment the factory guides already shared.

Circling back. Thank you to @EOD Guy - I appreciate the PDF you posted. It has the supplemental sections popped open which is needed to do this properly. Tip: If you're archiving these transmission docs, make sure you grab the more detailed one, which I also attached.

The process itself is described very well in the document. As good or even better than Mercedes' WIS in terms of details, and hammers out any ambiguity in the descriptions. So I'll keep this limited to things I learned and experienced outside of the provided document.

Access is not an issue for any part of this job. You don't need more clearance than what the truck already provides (maybe). I slid myself under there and was ready to go. No panels to remove but I don't have the upgraded skid plate. The drain plug takes a 6mm hex key (more on this later) and the fill plug (o-ring; no crush washer) is a 24mm bolt. Plenty of room to swing a breaker bar in both cases, but have some extensions available.


Transmission is level at stock configuration. Photo may not show it, but the bubble gets final say. Pardon the parallax in this picture.


Use an extended-length allen key to hold the thermostat plunger in. I tried a large paperclip, but it was too flimsy that I couldn't get it through all the way. The extended length of the allen key also helped, this one a 1.25mm measured at the flats. Tip: This was probably the hardest part of the job, and it wasn't hard at all. "Hard" as in you have 10 cars in front of you at Starbucks hard. You just need to think through the exercise is all. There was no "dust cap" like the PDF states, and it's on the right side of the vehicle. Car's right.


Get ready to sit and wait. The warm-up procedure can take time if your ambient temp is low, like in the morning. At 60degF ambient, mine took about 20min to warm up. Thankfully I had a coffee and this forum to entertain myself. Tip: You'll know that you successfully entered temp check/idle up mode when the "D" goes away from the cluster and a couple sensors are deactivated. When the transmission is up to temp, the "D" will appear solid, and the engine fans will switch to high. You might miss the "D" coming on, but the fans kicking on is an event I guarantee will get your attention. If the "D" is blinking, you are outside of the recommended fill temp.


Have a spare plug handy. I found the 6mm hex key drive on the drain plug a bit lacking given the 30ft-lbs (fill plug 29ft-lbs) you're supposed to torque this bolt to. I got to about 2/3 of final torque when it rounded off. I used a Snap-On 15-75, so 30 was well within the ideal range. Both bolt and drive were very wet at this point, so I'm guessing that's it. Thankfully, there's extractors for this, and all the room to work in.




Engine drain plug has the same thread and pitch (M12 x 1.25). As I didn't want a repeat, I took my original engine oil drain plug (surplus from when I switched to a magnetic plug after the first change), which has the same thread and pitch, and cut off the tip be the same length as the original transmission plug. I played it safe since you have the plastic standpipe in that same recess, and didn't want to crush it. Advantage? It's a real bolt. Caveat: Toyota probably used the hex key setup to prevent stripping pan threads from those that ugga-dugga their drain bolts.


The transmission pan has a recess for the drain bolt. If you choose to go my route above, the bolt head wont be lower than the rest of the pan.


I suspect most of you won't get to try this for another 10 years, maybe never for some. That said, I uploaded these pics to the site so they don't disappear a la Photobucket. I also deliberately didn't touch on what fluid to use as we're all adults here.

One More Tip: Don't forget to release the pin from your thermostat plunger!!

I had a GX460 before this and towed Colorado Mountains on 34s, so I tried to take good care of my transmission.

The accepted strategy for the GX guys was partial drain and fill - for me every spring. I would drain the transmission fluid when the vehicle was cold and EXACTLY measure how much came out. I would then fill with that exact same amount again. I’m not sure that is the recommendation from Toyota, but it kept my transmission healthy until about 170k when I sold it.

Great write up!