I think you meant to direct to OP. I've not done anything yet (and don't have a 1958).
LC Trim base level stereo
- Thread starter chancellor
- Start date
Got my 6.5" Hertz woofers in the front doors today. I think Chancellor mentioned you may get "more" with 6x9's and I would agree. Replacing one and leaving the other stock, I thought I had made a bad choice, after replacing both, I feel that there is a noticeable improvement in quality and actual bass, it just isn't boomy and messy like stock, which threw me off a first. I really half a$$ed the sound dampening, it was hot outside, and just hit whatever I could easily hit. Nothing rattles, so that is an improvement alone.
The rear pax speakers are noticeably horrible now, so they are getting changed.
Somethings:
-jtc mentioned the NVX silicone baffle. GET IT! We had a storm last night, there was water in my stock door speakers.
-Definitely have a crowbar/forked end type trim tool, this helps getting the attachy plug things out of the door. Pry from the head, not the base. They have thin rubber gaskets. I ruined a few before I got wise.
-Tesa fleece cloth tape, do the wires and the Metra adapter so they won't rattle.
-The Metra adapter was correct for my vehicle, didn't need to swap wires, tested with a MM.
-The TT speaker adapter comes with no instructions, so if you are hot, and mildly stupid like me, you will look at it like "what?" You break the taps off to get the speaker to fit lol.
-Definitely slap some dampening, even if you do a half a$$ job, it is worth it.
The rear pax speakers are noticeably horrible now, so they are getting changed.
Somethings:
-jtc mentioned the NVX silicone baffle. GET IT! We had a storm last night, there was water in my stock door speakers.
-Definitely have a crowbar/forked end type trim tool, this helps getting the attachy plug things out of the door. Pry from the head, not the base. They have thin rubber gaskets. I ruined a few before I got wise.
-Tesa fleece cloth tape, do the wires and the Metra adapter so they won't rattle.
-The Metra adapter was correct for my vehicle, didn't need to swap wires, tested with a MM.
-The TT speaker adapter comes with no instructions, so if you are hot, and mildly stupid like me, you will look at it like "what?" You break the taps off to get the speaker to fit lol.
-Definitely slap some dampening, even if you do a half a$$ job, it is worth it.
Great advice! Thank you so much! Did you replace the dashboard speakers?
I should have asked. How many ohms are the OEM 1958 front door and dashboard speakers?
Which Hertz speaker did you use for the front door. I am looking at the DCx 165.3’s.
C165. The front door isn’t full range, no reason the shell out more money for a 2/3-way. Some people installed full range and someone in another thread said they saw a document that says the door is full range, but Chancellor hooked up a bookshelf and tested it, none of his advice has been wrong. I’d have gone with the Infinities, except they were too bright for me.
I’m putting the CX165 in the pax doors. I typically don’t have pax, but I can notice how terrible the factory speakers are. Plus, I have too much time on my hands lol.
I avoided the DCX because they may be bright, I am sensitive to bright tweeters/sounds, even though I have hearing damage, toss in all the glass and it’s annoying. I still haven’t figured out a good solution even though I got the Hertz with the aim-able tweeter for my dash.
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As others have said, data transfer via Bluetooth isn't nearly as good as via wifi. Further, the Bluetooth codec also compresses sound files, which makes the sound quality worse than being connected direct or through wifi. I'd actually rather listen to an old, compressed mp3 through wifi or direct connection than a FLAC/lossless file through Bluetooth. It's that bad.
I'm not much of a conspiracy theorist, but one thing I kind of wonder is if vehicle manufacturers don't arbitrarily and randomly kick users off of Carplay and revert them to their in-house software on occasion so that they can be the ones that collect the user data and sell it versus Apple collecting the user data. Collection of user data is supposedly the real reason GM doesn't do Carplay anymore.
CP kicks me off for no reason even when my phone is plugged in, it can be very frustrating. I've had it kick my phone off, then reconnect, then kick me off, and keep doing it. This usually happens when I've changed a speaker and/or I'm messing with my EQ levels. I don't think it is Apple's fault, because my'25 F150 hasn't kicked me off CP, plugged in or wifi.
Eta: I have been listening the XM/Sirius more (the quality is a bit better if you stream it from your phone) but the quality on my LC and new F150 is much better than my ‘19 F150, maybe they both have Sirius XM 360L, I dunno. One thing I have noticed, about two weeks ago Apple Music got harsh (quality doesn’t matter). I chalked it up to my new dash speakers breaking in or I busted a tweeter, but it is harsh in my new F150 too, and on my HomePod. Don’t know how that can be. Haven’t changed any settings.
Eta: I have been listening the XM/Sirius more (the quality is a bit better if you stream it from your phone) but the quality on my LC and new F150 is much better than my ‘19 F150, maybe they both have Sirius XM 360L, I dunno. One thing I have noticed, about two weeks ago Apple Music got harsh (quality doesn’t matter). I chalked it up to my new dash speakers breaking in or I busted a tweeter, but it is harsh in my new F150 too, and on my HomePod. Don’t know how that can be. Haven’t changed any settings.
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I would agree on the Hertz Cento C165 on the front doors. They are cleaner bass without the heavy boom. They take some time to break in. I also at first felt like I took a step back from stock. Overall a good speaker that can handle most music. It does lack in deep notes and I tend to want more on some songs I listen to. Other brands and or models available for those of you not wanting to go with the C165.
The Hertz Sub I had for the liftgate was sent back and I drove around with the stock for a while. I sat in the back seats and it seems like the majority of the deep notes are from the front doors. Seems like Toyota really pushed the sound to the front seats and left the rear with minimal sound level. I did end up getting the Beatsonic 3T3 and even messing with the rear gain it did not seem to help the rear doors. The added amp did add an additional clarity overall with a slight gain on low end. The main reason I got it was to provide a subwoofer out to a dedicated amp. Even with the stock sub and the beatsonic, the low end from the rear was not really reaching the front seats and all I heard was the front door woofers.
In comes the next speaker: JL Audio 8W1v3. I was able to use the adaptor I made for the Hertz and installed the JL using the Metra plug wire and just stripped the ends off to bare wire. Easy push in style on the JL and in it went. I can say I am becoming a pro at removing the rear sub!
I only have had it in for an hour with using the factory set up for power and it’s already an improvement. It goes DEEP! At some point I plan on installing a dedicated amp to power it. I have just about everything I need but have some obligations this weekend so not sure when I will get around to it.
I do have a question, if anyone has bypassed a factory speaker did you use an audio resister? I have not found solid data on our Toyotas that would speak to what the system does when a speaker is unplugged. I have read that full power can/will go to that speaker as the system thinks it is having an issue and could cause an audio failure/fault. I picked up a 60 OHM load resister by NVX in hopes that this should do the trick when I bypass the stock sub wire and use the subwoofer out on the beatsonic.
Anyway, hope all is well with you all. Truly been enjoying the Land Cruiser!
Just wanted to double check. The dash speakers both need to be reversed in polarity using the metra adapters, but none of the doors need reversing?
I have the Hertz DCX 100 dash speakers now and the polarity is not reversed. They sound good to me now, leagues better than stock. But I’m curious if they’ll sound significantly better if I reverse the polarity. It’ll be a bit of a pain because I soldered one of the cables on each side since the narrow crimp connecter did not fit onto the hertz, which has 2 thick prongs.
You need to check with a multimeter. The Meta adapter on my driver's side is fine, the Meta adapter on my pax side needed to be switched. On my LC, the Meta adapters for the front doors are correct. The wires on the Meta adapter can be pulled out of the OEM-to-Meta side, just buy another set of wires vs soldering. I put the DCX100 in my center (which made zero difference, IMHO) and just pulled the large out of another piece.
I ended up using the spare wires for the multimeter, stripped the ends off, that way I'm not trying to do electronic yoga and hold the OEM plug and stick the MM probes in.
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That's pretty badass. So, the factory amp will power the JL and you can hear it?
Going down the rabbit hole, I had formed the impression that the factory amp just wasn't going power an aftermarket sub, at least not one that would get below 45-50hz. I never saw the one you have, everything I was looking at were dual coil subs, I was going to wire it to 2ohm (supposedly the factory is 2.5ohm), I figured that would give me more power, then I started thinking it would blow the amp or I wouldn't get anything out of the sub because the magnets are so much larger than stock.
I've clicked my balance one or two to the rear, seems to have helped, we'll see when I get the Hertz in the rear. Mainly, I did that because I feel the dash speakers are really "in your face". To get the doors really going, you turn your volume up, and the dash are too loud IMHO, even screwing with the EQ. I think the Toyota amp is of pretty lousy sound quality too.
I returned the JL 3.5" because of the sensitivity (vs the other JL for the doors and other brands), but now I'm thinking JL may actually know what they are doing. I also thought they sounded bad, but this was before I knew about the polarity issue.
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I’m not quite sure why you need to reverse the polarity of the dashboard speakers. They are wired in parallel with the front door speakers. Normally, polarity is reversed if a preamp is phase inverted. This is not the case in this situation. You can certainly try changing the connections or consider using an app to determine if the speakers are out of phase.
This kind of concerns me about replacing the door speakers even though I already bought the Infinity speakers Chancellor used for all the doors. Maybe the stock speakers are sensitive enough to put out sound at more normal listening levels, and the more powerful upgraded speakers need more and therefore might be a downgrade without some kind of further adjustment?
Maybe this won’t be an issue for the door speakers I’m using because they have 94db sensitivity and are effectively 4 ohm.
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I’ve read your posts. I own a 1958 with the 6 speaker system. I was considering adding Morel tweezers to the dashboard. Based on your research and experience, do you think the Morel 301’s will work or should I move to something like the Hertz 3.5 inch?
