TrekboxX cargo deck install.

[JustinHEMI]

I don't have a lot of complaints about the LC250, but I was immediately disappointed with the floor covering the battery and was hoping someone would come along with a replacement, and TrekboxX did just that. It's expensive, but I was lucky enough to get it before the price increase and they have a military discount if you ask them. They did tell me they had to raise the price because it's expensive to ship, and "free shipping" is included (really, it's baked into the price). I don't intend on using the rest of their system.

250 cargo deck — TrekboxX Expedition Systems

www.trekboxx.com

Anyway, I got around to installing it today so I thought I would post about the install. The instructions are pretty basic but if you're able to use hand tools, you can handle this install.

It took me 90 minutes, and some of that was spent figuring out how to get the OEM floor out.

Tools you'll need;

• Ratchet
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 4mm hex key (allen key)
• Trim removal tools

The first step of the instructions is to remove the OEM floor bits. After poking and prodding, I found that the OEM floor bits are mostly held in with standard interior clips and with the right amount of persuasion, they just pop out.

First, though, you can remove the main floor piece by removing these two 10mm bolts, and giving it a tug to release the clips.

Then simply pop out all the plastic piece around the battery.

For the piece in front of the battery under the back seats, there's these little covers with plastic nuts which are hand tight and easily removed.

To remove the cubby near the hatch, you'll need to pop off the rear hatch trim, but save this, you'll immediately reinstall it.

Again, all the cubbies and plastic bits just pop out with the exception of that noted above, so I didn't take a bunch of pictures popping things out. Then begin installing the new deck.


Remove the 4 bolts holding down the battery cover in the rear, and install the rear spacer. OEM bolts are 14mm, new bolts are 17mm.

Same thing now for the front riser, 14mm OEM, 17mm new bolts, but for the front, there's two longer bolts for the inboard holes and two shorter bolts for the outboard holes.

Next install the rear riser onto the rear spacer using the six 2" screws which take a 4mm hex.

Then install this small riser cap, or cubby tray, near the battery using two 1" screws, 4mm hex.

Then install the floor with 9 screws, 4mm hex.

Tighten everything down. One thing I like about this design already is that you can get to all the mounting hardware once it is installed.


This is a good use of one of those mini ratchets (this one is Harbor Freight) for these hex heads.

 

[JustinHEMI]

And here's the finished install.

I'm not sure how high the OEM floor is, I forgot to measure before tearing it out, but from the hatch trim to top of floor in this photo is 3-7/8".

Pros;
1) I've had it now only a few hours but it is MUCH more solid than the OEM floor and I feel like I could actually use the cargo area like a truck now.
2) Storage under the front and back or the floor, and near the battery covery.
3) OEM ties does still functional.
4) Provides a lot of places to strap things down.
5) High quality construction. The fit and finish is very good.
6) Easy install. IMO.
7) Easy removal. I believe that with 2 people, or if you're strong and flexible, you would need to remove only the 8 main mounting bolts and be able to lift the whole thing out for access to the hybrid battery.

Cons;
1) Price. At the new price of $1495, you'll have to decide if it's worth it, but this is subjective. Perhaps a complete floor replacement is worth 1500, I sure feel it's worth it for what I paid. Ask them if they have a discount for your situation.
2) Adds 27 pounds of constant weight.
3) Reserved for if I find more cons to put here before 4.
4) There's about a 1/4" gap between the rear space and hatch trim and I can see dirt and debris getting into the tub. I might look for a way to seal that up a bit.