The hybrid that can't...

[RUN-8]

If the new ones at the dealer have the same sound then it’s most likely normal. A universal bearing what is that. The only one I can think of is the rod bearing. A bad Rod bearing isn’t likely to get silent. Someone needs to try to listen to the sound on a Tacoma.

The cylinder block will contain several types of bearings, namely main cap bearings, and connecting rod bearings.

An inline 4 cylinder will have 5 main journals on the crankshaft, and 4 rod journals. The main journals are held in place by either main bearing caps or in this instance a main bearing girdle assembly, each journal will have a dedicated main bearing which is a Babbitt type bearing, one of these will also employ a thrust washer to regulate fore and aft movement of the crankshaft. Additionally each connecting rod will also employ a Babbitt style bearing on the big end of the connecting rod. All of these bearings have oiling holes and groves to allow lube oil to be forced through to create a fluid film between the bearings and the crankshaft.

This particular 4 cylinder also employs a set of balance shafts that is driven off of the crankshaft by a set of polymer gears. This is used to counteract the inherent unbalanced nature of an inline 4 cylinder. The balance shafts will also ride on some type of bearing, but I don’t know if they’re Babbitt or roller bearings.

In any of these cases a loose fitting bearing is not going to get quieter with operating temperatures increasing. They will sound terrible no matter the temperature, making a distinct knocking sound. If you hear this just keep driving to the nearest safe spot or dealership/repair shop because the engine is trashed already; run it till it blows up or gets you home.

I predict the OP is hearing a waste gate on the turbo bleeding off boost at low engine temps due to ECU programming for emissions or longevity. Alternatively it could be associated with the hybrid system.

My guess is the OP isn’t going to be happy with the new Land Cruiser and should consider moving on with something else.

 

[errmerrgerrd]

Does it even have regen breaks at the wheel at all?

As far as I understand, regen breaking is achieved through the electric motor as the momentum of the car spins the electric motor, which generates current and charges the battery. Electromagnetic field created at the motor during this process generates the resistance that slows the car down.
.

What you're described is driveline regen, not brake regen. So, yes, the LC does have driveline regen. But not direct braking regen.

The hybrid controller decides if/when driveline regen and/or hydraulic friction braking is used when the driver (or driving automation) requests to slow down using the brake pedal (explicit) or goes into a coast mode (implicit)

 

[TakaraLC]

What you're described is driveline regen, not brake regen. So, yes, the LC does have driveline regen. But not direct braking regen.

The hybrid controller decides if/when driveline regen and/or hydraulic friction braking is used when the driver (or driving automation) requests to slow down using the brake pedal (explicit) or goes into a coast mode (implicit)

What is brake regen? I don't know any cars with regen capable breaks at the wheels. Closest thing I know are EVs with electric motors at each wheel.

 

[DaChronisseur]

What is brake regen? I don't know any cars with regen capable breaks at the wheels. Closest thing I know are EVs with electric motors at each wheel.

Porsche 918? I'm not actually sure what the technical engineering was, but I recall Porsche using the term "recuperative braking" like it was the hottest shit ever back when the 918 came out.

 

[TakaraLC]

Porsche 918? I'm not actually sure what the technical engineering was, but I recall Porsche using the term "recuperative braking" like it was the hottest shit ever back when the 918 came out.

I believe those are not the wheels either. Porches has electric motor based regen breaking and/or flywheel based regen breaking.

 

[DaChronisseur]

I believe those are not the wheels either. Porches has electric motor based regen breaking and/or flywheel based regen breaking.

I think you're right, after digging into it. The normal 918s use the motors at the axles to help decelerate (while charging the battery) and the RSR version used a flywheel. Given the absurd temperatures that those brake rotors see on the track, I can't imagine Porsche wants electronics (beyond abs) anywhere in the vicinity, to say nothing of the unsprung weight such a system would add. Anyway, we're way off topic at this point.

 

[jbe2289]

LC does not have regen front brakes.

I heard it on a review "Toyota said nothing smaller than 18" wheels will fit because of the regenerative front breaks." Guess they were wrong then. And we know 17" wheels fit.

 

[jbe2289]

Just did break in oil change at 1200 miles. Not looking too good. The 4 new vehicles I have had all had visible metal shavings in the oil at 1000 miles that looked like glitter, so that is normal to me. But this was far worse, there were larger pieces of metal, the oil was dark, and contaminated (not sure if water or gas or both). I've driven it very conservatively the first 1000 miles per break in procedure. I was worried about this with a hybrid - oil contamination with water from condensation with the engine shutting off and unburned fuel are common issues. Definitely recommend break in change and change regularly.

 

[ultane]

Just did break in oil change at 1200 miles. Not looking too good. The 4 new vehicles I have had all had visible metal shavings in the oil at 1000 miles that looked like glitter, so that is normal to me. But this was far worse, there were larger pieces of metal, the oil was dark, and contaminated (not sure if water or gas or both). I've driven it very conservatively the first 1000 miles per break in procedure. I was worried about this with a hybrid - oil contamination with water from condensation with the engine shutting off and unburned fuel are common issues. Definitely recommend break in change and change regularly.

Sounds like oil analysis with The Motor Oil Geek or Blackstone would be worth the time and money.

 

[D-Train]

An engineer buddy of mine sent this link for a good explanation of how the hybrid system works...

 

[HAL9K]

Just did break in oil change at 1200 miles. Not looking too good. The 4 new vehicles I have had all had visible metal shavings in the oil at 1000 miles that looked like glitter, so that is normal to me. But this was far worse, there were larger pieces of metal, the oil was dark, and contaminated (not sure if water or gas or both). I've driven it very conservatively the first 1000 miles per break in procedure. I was worried about this with a hybrid - oil contamination with water from condensation with the engine shutting off and unburned fuel are common issues. Definitely recommend break in change and change regularly.

Any pictures of the oil?

 

[TakaraLC]

Just did break in oil change at 1200 miles. Not looking too good. The 4 new vehicles I have had all had visible metal shavings in the oil at 1000 miles that looked like glitter, so that is normal to me. But this was far worse, there were larger pieces of metal, the oil was dark, and contaminated (not sure if water or gas or both). I've driven it very conservatively the first 1000 miles per break in procedure. I was worried about this with a hybrid - oil contamination with water from condensation with the engine shutting off and unburned fuel are common issues. Definitely recommend break in change and change regularly.

Not sure about the metal pieces. But gen 3 Tacoma’s were also known for having a really dark oil that sometimes smelled like gasoline, for the break-in oil change.

I doubt you can get moisture in the oil unless the car is driven only for very short distances where the oil temperature stays below the boiling point of water. Even then, it is more of a winter issue.

 

[jbe2289]

Any pictures of the oil?

No, I didn't have my phone in the garage with me.

 

[Proj626]

Regarding the noise that's being reported here, could it not be the Direct Injection portion of D4S cycling on and off? I posted this in the other thread that talks about a knocking noise heard below 25 mph. D4S kind of sounds like an exhaust leak to be honest.

different noise... there is the normal clatter like in your video but this is under acceleration and goes away after it's warmed up.

 

[Proj626]

The cylinder block will contain several types of bearings, namely main cap bearings, and connecting rod bearings.

An inline 4 cylinder will have 5 main journals on the crankshaft, and 4 rod journals. The main journals are held in place by either main bearing caps or in this instance a main bearing girdle assembly, each journal will have a dedicated main bearing which is a Babbitt type bearing, one of these will also employ a thrust washer to regulate fore and aft movement of the crankshaft. Additionally each connecting rod will also employ a Babbitt style bearing on the big end of the connecting rod. All of these bearings have oiling holes and groves to allow lube oil to be forced through to create a fluid film between the bearings and the crankshaft.

This particular 4 cylinder also employs a set of balance shafts that is driven off of the crankshaft by a set of polymer gears. This is used to counteract the inherent unbalanced nature of an inline 4 cylinder. The balance shafts will also ride on some type of bearing, but I don’t know if they’re Babbitt or roller bearings.

In any of these cases a loose fitting bearing is not going to get quieter with operating temperatures increasing. They will sound terrible no matter the temperature, making a distinct knocking sound. If you hear this just keep driving to the nearest safe spot or dealership/repair shop because the engine is trashed already; run it till it blows up or gets you home.

I predict the OP is hearing a waste gate on the turbo bleeding off boost at low engine temps due to ECU programming for emissions or longevity. Alternatively it could be associated with the hybrid system.

My guess is the OP isn’t going to be happy with the new Land Cruiser and should consider moving on with something else.

This has Toyota fanboy written all over it. copy and paste of how engines work to gain credibility, not fully reading/understanding what is going on with the situation...just to say I won't like the LC because you are playing it off as "normal". FFS, I didn't tell them to tear apart my engine or trace it to a cyl 1 issue. They did that. I took it in for an "exhaust leak" which the service guy changed to "engine noise" in the description of the work ticket. I've tried getting into another LC as well... I've had others state their LC doesn't make that noise. It's not "Normal" and I don't believe its a wastegate issue due to the mechanics tracing it to a cyl 1 issue. All you master mechanics out here need to go call Corwin of Toyota in Colorado Springs and go talk to the mechanic yourselves. And please don't keep pushing this off as "normal" until you fully understand what's going on and or are working on the vehicle yourself.

 

[RUN-8]

Not a Toyota fan boy here. Just explaining to another member the types and locations of bearing on a rotating assembly.

Sorry your new truck is making strange noises.

Toyota’s recent history with engine issues is getting more and more well known.

You’re probably in for a shitty time to be honest. Toyota’s treatment of Tundra buyers with engine failures has been to stonewall and obfuscate up until the engine recall.

It also doesn’t help that Toyota has a network of dealers that have proven to be complete and utter scumbags the past 4 years.

Good luck to you, you’re going to need it.

 

[fhb]

This has Toyota fanboy written all over it. copy and paste of how engines work to gain credibility, not fully reading/understanding what is going on with the situation...just to say I won't like the LC because you are playing it off as "normal". FFS, I didn't tell them to tear apart my engine or trace it to a cyl 1 issue. They did that. I took it in for an "exhaust leak" which the service guy changed to "engine noise" in the description of the work ticket. I've tried getting into another LC as well... I've had others state their LC doesn't make that noise. It's not "Normal" and I don't believe it’s a wastegate issue due to the mechanics tracing it to a cyl 1 issue. All you master mechanics out here need to go call Corwin of Toyota in Colorado Springs and go talk to the mechanic yourselves. And please don't keep pushing this off as "normal" until you fully understand what's going on and or are working on the vehicle yourself.

Bad situation all around…..Any update on when Toyota engineer is showing up to review?

 

[Proj626]

Bad situation all around…..Any update on when Toyota engineer is showing up to review?

I just texted the service advisor and they said "the engineer is scheduled to be here tomorrow. I should have an answer after that."

 

[EOD Guy]

This has Toyota fanboy written all over it. copy and paste of how engines work to gain credibility, not fully reading/understanding what is going on with the situation...just to say I won't like the LC because you are playing it off as "normal". FFS, I didn't tell them to tear apart my engine or trace it to a cyl 1 issue. They did that. I took it in for an "exhaust leak" which the service guy changed to "engine noise" in the description of the work ticket. I've tried getting into another LC as well... I've had others state their LC doesn't make that noise. It's not "Normal" and I don't believe its a wastegate issue due to the mechanics tracing it to a cyl 1 issue. All you master mechanics out here need to go call Corwin of Toyota in Colorado Springs and go talk to the mechanic yourselves. And please don't keep pushing this off as "normal" until you fully understand what's going on and or are working on the vehicle yourself.

Lots of wanna be mechanics out there, very few with actual wrench experience.

 

[RUN-8]

Lots of wanna be mechanics out there, very few with actual wrench experience.

I have lots of wrench experience.

I’m highly skilled at throwing wrenches while swearing, flaying my knuckles and fingers open on sharp metal, and of course losing any 10mm socket within a 1/2 mile radius of anything I work on ever.

Mostly I just decide to fix something myself because I’m a cheap bastard and get 1/2 way through reminded why I should have hired it to be done instead.