The dash lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday - multiple warnings and lights

[swampdog]

It seems that the LC wanted to get in on seasonal celebrations, with the dash lighting up like a Christmas tree.

Yesterday, after driving about a kilometer at low speed, numerous systems shut down and the message area of the display flashed messages. The Engine light also came on and stayed illuminated, as did 6 separate warning lights. Warnings included: Hybrid System Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer, Driver Monitor Unavailable - See Owners Manual, System Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer, Secondary Collision Brake System Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer, Check Engine, Reduced Engine Power - Visit Your Dealer, Drive-Start Control Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer, Brake Override Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer. I could not override the warnings that just kept on scrolling. It can't be that safe driving with multiple systems shut down.

I checked with the dealer; they said it was OK to drive unless the vehicle told me to turn it off- it did not do that. I turned the LC off three or four times over the next few hours and restarted it. No change. Then I drove to the dealer and turned it off. After waiting for about fifteen minutes until someone had time to look at it, I restarted it. All warnings were gone. The dealer thought it was a faulty sensor somewhere in the system that had fixed itself, so they could not do anything.

Several times previously while driving on the highway, the cruise and lane holding systems stopped working, with corresponding warnings. After about five minutes, the issue disappeared without me doing anything. I mentioned this to the dealer and they thought a dirty sensor in the grille area could be to blame for that. But the vehicle was clean and no rain or snow was falling at those times. So, I don't know about that either.

Has anyone else experienced these issues?

 

[katekebo]

Xmas tree lights on the dashboard can be caused by literally hundreds of issues, some can be trivial, some very serious. Impossible to know without reading the codes.
One characteristic of Toyota is that it will light up many warnings and show multiple messages that are usually not related to the actual cause. For example, a simple misfire, that would normally only light up the CEL in most cars, will trigger multiple warnings in Toyota like "AWD system failure" or "Stability Control Unavailable" and "Visit Dealer". The reason is that most people ignore the CEL if the car "runs good" and eventually neglecting the issue results in major problems. So Toyota decided to play a little psychology trick and display a myriad of message to instill a sense of urgency in the driver / owner.
Buy a cheap OBD2 code reader and carry it with you in the car. The next time the CEL turns on, plug in the code reader and write down the codes. That way you will have a good starting point for the mechanic / dealer to diagnose the problem, even if the codes clear themselves after turning off the car.

 

[jbtaco2002]

you'd think there would be logging somewhere or a history of alerts, so when it doesn't show up at the dealer, they can still find objective evidence than an alert did occur...

 

[OverlandMethod]

I've seen several posts regarding this and this one is a pretty decent lead on the fuel pump.

You are not alone... second time I have had this happen to me (September and last Saturday) at exactly the same location... going down Floyd's hill on westbound I70... very fun place for a car to go into limp mode.

• Hybrid system malfunction
• Drive-Start Control Malfunction
• System Malfunction
• Check engine

Just received word that Toyota told the dealership to replace the high pressure fuel pump.

Anyone have any experience or wisdom when it comes to this part? How big of an issue is this? Long-term issues caused by this part malfunctioning? Is this serious enough to start pushing for a new LC because of potential damage to the engine etc.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.



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This error flooding thing is common in the software world. Usually it's one error cascading and triggering a bunch of other errors that would not be there without the first error. Programmers deprioritize these error handling systems and usually never look back. In this case I would think Toyota would eventually address this.

We are the first bout with this complicated system. Hopefully one day some software and firmware updates could address these kinds of problems.

 

[ROCK3TM4N]

Just started a thread about this but it seems that the scan gauge 3 tool that is plugged in at all times could have been helpful as I just experienced something similar to you guys.

Its able to show lots of info regarding the status of the vehicle plus able to scan and clear codes if needed. Think I will pull the trigger on this soon.

Dont want to deal with the hassle of taking the truck to the dealer if not needed..

 

[JCAV]

I am new here and hoping to get a LC in the next month. Reading all the issues here is good to see how everyone is handling it but it would be nice if it was also posted what year the LC is. 24’ or 25’? Also glad Toyota is fixing these issues but it’s a toyota. This is one of the reasons why I am going to buy one.

 

[ultane]

I am new here and hoping to get a LC in the next month. Reading all the issues here is good to see how everyone is handling it but it would be nice if it was also posted what year the LC is. 24’ or 25’? Also glad Toyota is fixing these issues but it’s a toyota. This is one of the reasons why I am going to buy one.

I strongly recommend downloading the free PDF owners manual from the Toyota website, and start reading it... it's LOOOONNNGGGGG.

 

[Mikie]

Same thing just happened to me while driving today, the whole dash lit up with lights... The magic fix-all (turning the engine off and back on) did not help.

Throwing three errors (all saying "visit your dealer")... System malfunction, Hybrid system malfunction, start drive system malfunction. With only 1300 miles on the vehicle!!! My dealer is backed up, so I need to wait a week before I can bring it in.

Disappointing!

 

[Paul2660]

Sorry to hear this. Please update this post after your dealer visit as to the cause. Hope it’s only a fault in a sensor.

Paul

 

[ultane]

Same thing just happened to me while driving today, the whole dash lit up with lights... The magic fix-all (turning the engine off and back on) did not help.

Throwing three errors (all saying "visit your dealer")... System malfunction, Hybrid system malfunction, start drive system malfunction. With only 1300 miles on the vehicle!!! My dealer is backed up, so I need to wait a week before I can bring it in.

Disappointing!

Disappointing to say the least..

Miss Daisy did that to me, twice, within the first month of ownership, and left me with a black instrument screen. All of the warning lights went away almost instantly. It has not happened since then.

 

[Bad1975]

Same thing just happened to me while driving today, the whole dash lit up with lights... The magic fix-all (turning the engine off and back on) did not help.

Throwing three errors (all saying "visit your dealer")... System malfunction, Hybrid system malfunction, start drive system malfunction. With only 1300 miles on the vehicle!!! My dealer is backed up, so I need to wait a week before I can bring it in.

Disappointing!

Check battery voltage anything 12V or under and the electronics can't properly start up. When attempting to start under these conditions it will just click or sometimes do nothing.

I'll be buying a NOCO boost for mine just to be safe, I've had the battery drop enough with just doors or rear hatch open for a few hours while working on it multiple times. Also a good idea if offroad and winching, especially if solo otherwise your literally stuck until someone comes along with jumper cables.

This is so far the only thing that really annoys me about the 250, the start battery and how fast the vehicle can drain it to not allow the vehicle to start up.

 

[EOD Guy]

If it ever happens again, try disconnecting the Neg battery cable and the small black plug next to it (easy as it gets), let it sit for a few minutes the reconnect every thing.

I had this happen a couple of times and I think (not positive) it was due to a weak battery that wouldn't fully charge. I replaced the battery and haven't had it happen in the last 10K miles.

The best investment for your LC is a jumper box........LOL

Owner's manuals

 

[Mikie]

Thanks for the tips! But I don't think it was my battery, for a couple of reasons... First, I have a battery monitor attached to the battery, and it was showing that the SOC and voltage were both OK. And, when I hook up my battery tester, it shows that the battery health is good (100%). Also, the problem occurred as I was driving (and had been for 15 minutes), so presumably (if I understand correctly) I should have been running off the DC converter, not the 12V battery at that point.

Also, a couple months ago I replaced the original OEM battery with an Optima Yellowtop. That said, I'm not so confident about the new battery -- I notice (from my battery monitoring) that doing something that should be trivial (like opening and closing a door) temporarily drops the battery voltage way down (to as far as 12.2 or 12.3 volts), tho the voltage slowly recovers after an hour or so. I don't know if this is normal and/or expected, but it is certainly concerning to me.

All in all, I agree with you BAD1975 -- the 12V battery is the biggest concern I have with the LC. In another month or so, I'll be starting my camping trips up to the mountains, where I'm really in the boonies on my own, and I'm worried about what will happen when I open/close the liftgate (with the cargo lights remaining on for 20 minutes if I leave it open), repeatedly open/close the car doors, etc. It wouldn't surprise me at all if I run into the "can't start" situation fairly often....

To that end, I've done a ton of stuff to try to weather the storm:
- I actually carry TWO Noco jump starters (they are small and cheap -- and I feel that the likelihood of me needing a jump is almost assumed given my plans for using the LC, so I have my "regular use" Noco under the drivers seat, and my "back up" Noco stored in the compartment next to the jack tools). For both, I have them in protective cases (they fit fine in their case in those two locations).
- I've installed a Bluetooth battery monitor (so I can easily keep tabs on the battery status via my cell phone).
- I've replaced/upgraded the 12V battery to an AGM (as mentioned above).
- I've installed a switch for the stupid liftgate lights that, as installed at the factory, are ALWAYS on when the liftgate is open!
- I've turned off the automatic interior lights (driver overhead switch), and configured the timer down as far as possible for the step and outside lights (i.e. 7.5 seconds)
- I've turned off the headlight auto-off delay function.
- I've turned off the door lock/unlock headlights flash function.
- I bought a small solar charger panel that can trickle-charge my battery when I'm camping (if conditions permit).
- I've installed battery pig tails for both my 120V home charger and my portable solar charger.
- I carry a couple carabiners so I can use them to fool the liftgate (i.e. insert the carabiner into the open liftgate latch, and the car will think that the liftgate is closed, and thus turn off the interior cargo area lights without waiting for the 20 minute auto-off).
- Finally, I'll be sure to fully charge/condition my battery before each trip.

Re my system malfunction messages -- I have an appt at the dealer for next Tuesday, so I'll report what I find out. The car seems to run OK (including the hybrid MAX boost), I don't notice any issues other than the continually repeating messages on the driver's display.

Re trying to disconnect the battery to see if that resolves the situation -- it wouldn't surprise me if that would do the trick, and in fact I thought about doing that, but I'd rather leave the car in the failure state, so that the tech can identify what the underlying issue is (hopefully). Also, I need to take my car in for the 6 month service, and a break-in oil change (1300 miles), so I'll try to get everything done at once.

Finally (if you're still reading this!!), I fully charged and conditioned my battery last night, so I'll see if that made any difference when I drive the car later today. [Update: After fully charging the battery, my christmas lights and endlessly repeating warning messages remain...]

 

[ultane]

Also, a couple months ago I replaced the original OEM battery with an Optima Yellowtop.

- I've replaced/upgraded the 12V battery to an AGM (as mentioned above).

Years ago, when fully engulfed in the motorcycle scene, I replaced all of the flooded lead/acid batteries in my bikes with AGM’s. Then I had to buy special chargers for the AGM’s because they required a different ‘charging profile’ to properly charge.

I’ve asked this before, elsewhere, does the electrical system, or is the electrical system, capable of properly/fully charging an AGM battery in your rig?

 

[Mikie]

Years ago, when fully engulfed in the motorcycle scene, I replaced all of the flooded lead/acid batteries in my bikes with AGM’s. Then I had to buy special chargers for the AGM’s because they required a different ‘charging profile’ to properly charge.

I’ve asked this before, elsewhere, does the electrical system, or is the electrical system, capable of properly/fully charging an AGM battery in your rig?

To be honest, I don't know. I'm aware of the issue, but don't have an answer.

But that said, here are a few data points:
- At a Toyota 4Runner info session several months back, one of the tech guys was asked about flooded batteries, and in that conversation, the tech guy mentioned that when they were testing the Land Cruiser (not the 4Runner), they were using AGM batteries at the time. He didn't know why Toyota changed and shipped the cars with regular flooded batteries.
- I've looked thru doc for both Carista and OBD1, and couldn't find any adjustable settings using either scanner that would allow the battery type to be specified. (I know for sure that some other cars have this available thru Carista.)
- When I do a long drive (which I haven't done much at all of up to this point), the battery seems to charge correctly, and both my battery monitor and my battery tester show that it's fully charged, with correct SOC (100%), good voltage (> 12.6V), and good health (including internal resistance measurement).
- The LC seems to charge at a pretty constant 14.4V, I honestly don't know if this is quite enough to fully charge an AGM battery.

In any case, my AGM is rated higher than the original OEM battery, so even if it's not 100% charged, I suspect (hope) that I still come out ahead (vs. the original battery). And the AGM offers LOTS of big advantages over a flooded cell battery.....

Parenthetically, I am still holding on to my original OEM battery (I haven't turned it in to AutoZone to get my recycle fee), as I'm not 100% confident that I won't need to go back to it! Tho, in reality, if I have to go back to a regular flooded, I'll try to find a better battery than the original -- if nothing else, I know that Toyota has a compatible upgraded flooded model that is available.

 

[Mikie]

Years ago, when fully engulfed in the motorcycle scene, I replaced all of the flooded lead/acid batteries in my bikes with AGM’s. Then I had to buy special chargers for the AGM’s because they required a different ‘charging profile’ to properly charge.

I’ve asked this before, elsewhere, does the electrical system, or is the electrical system, capable of properly/fully charging an AGM battery in your rig?

BTW, when I take my LC in for service next week, I intend to ask the tech whether there is any setting available using his super-scan tool that would allow for the choice of battery type (i.e. regular flooded or AGM). If I am able to find this out, I'll provide an update.

 

[ultane]

To be honest, I don't know. I'm aware of the issue, but don't have an answer.

But that said, here are a few data points:
- At a Toyota 4Runner info session several months back, one of the tech guys was asked about flooded batteries, and in that conversation, the tech guy mentioned that when they were testing the Land Cruiser (not the 4Runner), they were using AGM batteries at the time. He didn't know why Toyota changed and shipped the cars with regular flooded batteries.
- I've looked thru doc for both Carista and OBD1, and couldn't find any adjustable settings using either scanner that would allow the battery type to be specified. (I know for sure that some other cars have this available thru Carista.)
- When I do a long drive (which I haven't done much at all of up to this point), the battery seems to charge correctly, and both my battery monitor and my battery tester show that it's fully charged, with correct SOC (100%), good voltage (> 12.6V), and good health (including internal resistance measurement).
- The LC seems to charge at a pretty constant 14.4V, I honestly don't know if this is quite enough to fully charge an AGM battery.

In any case, my AGM is rated higher than the original OEM battery, so even if it's not 100% charged, I suspect (hope) that I still come out ahead (vs. the original battery). And the AGM offers LOTS of big advantages over a flooded cell battery.....

Parenthetically, I am still holding on to my original OEM battery (I haven't turned it in to AutoZone to get my recycle fee), as I'm not 100% confident that I won't need to go back to it! Tho, in reality, if I have to go back to a regular flooded, I'll try to find a better battery than the original -- if nothing else, I know that Toyota has a compatible upgraded flooded model that is available.

I have many of the same thoughts. If they were testing LC’s with AGM’s, maybe, just maybe, they will be charged correctly. I hope so. I just wasn’t sure if it mattered on our LC’s.

 

[ultane]

BTW, when I take my LC in for service next week, I intend to ask the tech whether there is any setting available using his super-scan tool that would allow for the choice of battery type (i.e. regular flooded or AGM). If I am able to find this out, I'll provide an update.

Thank you! There may be an AGM in Miss Daisy’s future yet!!

 

[colfishnski]

I have many of the same thoughts. If they were testing LC’s with AGM’s, maybe, just maybe, they will be charged correctly. I hope so. I just wasn’t sure if it mattered on our LC’s.

I'd only add that I've put AGMs in every car I've owned in the last 20 years, and those did not have settings or otherwise need modification to charge properly. You're correct in that AGM chargers or chargers with that setting charge to a slightly higher voltage, but I believe it's very slight, but I've not heard it being consequential in a vehicle system. Also, I've not seen any guidance in Optima or Odessy literature concerning in-vehicle charging. I'm, of course, not guilty of this, but I wonder if some of us overthink things? lol.

 

[Mikie]

Sorry to hear this. Please update this post after your dealer visit as to the cause. Hope it’s only a fault in a sensor.

Paul

Well, unfortunately, today everything automatically cleared up -- no more messages! I say unfortunately, since I'd of preferred the problem to still be occurring when I bring it into the dealer next week.

It was interesting -- the problem originally occurred on Wednesday, throwing the 3 error messages that I previously mentioned (along with LOTS of warning lights in the dash). On Thursday, the Hybrid System Malfunction message went away, and was replaced by a new message, Check Engine (all of the messages I've received have also said Visit Your Dealer).

On Friday, everything was still bonkers, but, up to that point, the car seemed to still be driving fine. Then on Saturday morning, I started it up and the thing decided that there are no more problems, so no more messages! I've driven it a couple times since then, and everything still appears to be fine.

I'm still going to take it into the dealer on Tues, but I'm sure that they'll tell me that they can't see any problem at this point (but it's hard for me to believe that no fault codes are retained until they are cleared...)