All right, well here’s what I’ve done so far, and if anybody’s got questions or wants a more specific picture or how I did something, just reach out. Cheers y’all!
-Tire upgrade to Falken Wildpeak 285 70/R17. I don’t remember what specific method wheel it is, but obviously the coolest ones. It has a zero offset. I used to rub a tiny bit but I adjusted my alignment and that’s gone. I’ll include a picture of the specs of that. It should be pointed out that this setup has a very aggressive stance with a few inches of poke.
-Rago fab front bumper. Relatively difficult install only because of how tricky it is to remove everything and then get it all back together. There are many steps/ pieces to disassemble the front end. ORGANIZATION IS KEY HERE. Set everything out and label the pieces as you go. I did not do that and I spent probably an extra 2 hours trying to figure out what screws/ pushpins went where and why I have so many pieces left over. Learn from my mistakes! Also bear in mind, there is cutting involved in this, and perhaps a little fine tuning once you go to install the bumper itself. Take your time to do it right.
-12,000lb Badlands winch with synthetic line. Many have very very strong opinions on certain products, and if you prefer Warn or whatever has worked for you , by all means, stick with that. The badlands for me is a win. I’ve used the sh*t out this same winch on my 2019 Tacoma, and never had any issues. Everything from deep crossings, Appalachian mud holes, stabilization on felling trees, and even used it to raise a barn. So for me, it’s a great product. I love the wireless remote, and it has a very solid magnet that can stick right to the bumper for readjustments on the pull. Love this winch. Rant over.
- Side note on running any winch in this vehicle. YOU CANNOT POWER THIS OFF THE TRACTION BATTERY UNDER THE HOOD. I had a hiccup with my father when testing the winch and it ultimately blew a fuse back on the 12v battery that completely killed the truck. Zero power to anything. That fuse link is irreplaceable without spending a few thousand dollars. If you’re curious as to how I ran my current setup back to the 12v, please reach out, I’d be more than willing to show you what I did. But again, learn from my mistakes. And yes I know I still have a breaker to install upstream of the disconnect, and yes I still have to heat wrap the line under the hood, but it is 1g wire and I don’t have any on hand currently.
- Extreme LED 30” amber light bar. I ran this straight to a deep sea fuseblock. Pretty straightforward. It can be argued that I need an inline fuse still, but I’ve done it this way on multiple vehicles now, and I’ve never had an issue. Again, if there’s questions, I’ll be more than happy to share more.
-Rock lights- I use some cheap Amazon Chinese ones that just clip together. I love these because they’re laughably cheap and relatively durable, but when one goes out, it’s super easy to just change the one that’s out (like a Xmas tree light). You will still have to splice the first light section to power it, but that’s it. Every light downstream of that is isolated by two connectors, one on each end. The only issue is they come in sets of two, with one strand ending at the light itself. So to get full coverage of the vehicle, I had to use four total strands to create one long strand. If this doesn’t make sense, message me and I’ll get more specific.
- Blue sea fuseblock. First off let me just say that I don’t like this. I have used these before and I ended up upgrading to a switchpro, which was so much better/ easier. That being said, I just couldn’t figure out a place to mount the switchpro in the cab that was acceptable to me. Maybe someday somebody will 3D print some kind of insert that will hold a switchpro and provide space for the existing switches, but for now the fuseblock is it. I installed it very carefully on the top of the passenger side fuse cover. Be very careful not to interfere with any relay or fuse beneath your mounting bolts. There is also obviously the argument that this setup creates a “constant power” situation, and I understand that the majority of people don’t like this, and would prefer to tap into something only powered when the truck is on. I get that, but for me, there’s been plenty of times that I’ve needed the benefit of lights without having to turn the truck on. Heard something in the woods and needed to verify it wasn’t a Bigfoot or something. Rock lights are always useful camping and again, don’t want the truck running. Obviously need to be used sparingly or you’ll potentially run the battery down. But this is how I prefer it. And yes I still need an inline fuse from the traction battery to the block, and heatwrap all the lines, but I was tired.
-Swapped out the center console tray. I went through probably 3 of these before I found this one, it’s got a double tray, and it came with the little hideaway part for the upper cubby area in the armrest itself. The pictures show with it empty and then with the corresponding “baskets” in. I’m very pleased with it. Found on Amazon. LUWU for Toyota Land Cruiser... Amazon.com
-I got some leather seat covers, they’re ok for now but I’m not thrilled with them, will replace at some point. Again, Amazon, but I remember the company was called wangwangwang, which was obviously memorable lol.
-Seat jackers because my back is terrible and they really do help a lot, for me at least. Easy install. Very straightforward.
-I mounted a Blackhawk holster on the passenger side for my SIG P365. I like having it there because I can still use the retention clip and it’s not plainly obvious to someone near the driver’s side. Without going fully down the rabbit hole of conceal carry firearms and everybody’s very intense opinions… I have always concealed carry, and I appendix carry. This is, for me, impractical and uncomfortable when driving. I like having my firearm within reach but I like knowing it won’t go flying around the cab in an accident. I also have a lockbox for when I can’t carry wherever it is that I might be going. The lockbox stays tucked away nicely under my seat. I put the holster in the passenger seat rear pocket. Again, comfortable for me to reach if I need my spare magazine or before I get out of the truck. This is simply what works best for me, whatever works for you, great. Shooters preference.
Side note- this was the first mod I did, and if the molle panels existed at that time, I would have installed them, and the holster to that. So I have more molle panels to install in the near future.
-Victory 4x4 molle shelf in the bed. Easy install and I LOVE it. It bolts right into the slots where the rear grab handles are, solid construction and the options are limitless. There are side panels that I will be picking up soon.
-Stickerfab topo stickers here and there, not sure if that counts as a mod, but I’ve worn a hardhat most of my life… so I like stickers.
-Seat gap filler cushions. I tried a few of these as well. These ones I liked the most and honestly I was just tired of ordering $20 things on Amazon and thinking “ehh not perfect.” These have a little slot that I keep small bills in, and a cup holder option. I keep the cup holder on the wife’s side since she always has 11 beverages with her. Drivers side butts up nicely to a separate storage pocket thing that I saw on EOD guys build. I believe he hard mounted his, but I’ve had zero issue so far with just the 3m tape it comes with. Both of which can be easily found on Amazon and I believe I’ve linked it below somewhere.
-Wireless charger that I found on Amazon since the 1958 doesn’t have one. This one fits the space almost perfectly and it’s convenient in conjunction with the magnetic charging mount. I can use the magnetic mount and the wife can use the wireless one. Wireless charger I got from Amazon, I’ll try and find the link, and the magnetic mount I got straight from Verizon.
I think that’s all so far. Next up I want a roof rack and some more molle panels here and there. I’ve also got upgraded fog lights and some raptor style grill lights on the way, and I’ll post when I get that all installed.
-Tire upgrade to Falken Wildpeak 285 70/R17. I don’t remember what specific method wheel it is, but obviously the coolest ones. It has a zero offset. I used to rub a tiny bit but I adjusted my alignment and that’s gone. I’ll include a picture of the specs of that. It should be pointed out that this setup has a very aggressive stance with a few inches of poke.
-Rago fab front bumper. Relatively difficult install only because of how tricky it is to remove everything and then get it all back together. There are many steps/ pieces to disassemble the front end. ORGANIZATION IS KEY HERE. Set everything out and label the pieces as you go. I did not do that and I spent probably an extra 2 hours trying to figure out what screws/ pushpins went where and why I have so many pieces left over. Learn from my mistakes! Also bear in mind, there is cutting involved in this, and perhaps a little fine tuning once you go to install the bumper itself. Take your time to do it right.
-12,000lb Badlands winch with synthetic line. Many have very very strong opinions on certain products, and if you prefer Warn or whatever has worked for you , by all means, stick with that. The badlands for me is a win. I’ve used the sh*t out this same winch on my 2019 Tacoma, and never had any issues. Everything from deep crossings, Appalachian mud holes, stabilization on felling trees, and even used it to raise a barn. So for me, it’s a great product. I love the wireless remote, and it has a very solid magnet that can stick right to the bumper for readjustments on the pull. Love this winch. Rant over.
- Side note on running any winch in this vehicle. YOU CANNOT POWER THIS OFF THE TRACTION BATTERY UNDER THE HOOD. I had a hiccup with my father when testing the winch and it ultimately blew a fuse back on the 12v battery that completely killed the truck. Zero power to anything. That fuse link is irreplaceable without spending a few thousand dollars. If you’re curious as to how I ran my current setup back to the 12v, please reach out, I’d be more than willing to show you what I did. But again, learn from my mistakes. And yes I know I still have a breaker to install upstream of the disconnect, and yes I still have to heat wrap the line under the hood, but it is 1g wire and I don’t have any on hand currently.
- Extreme LED 30” amber light bar. I ran this straight to a deep sea fuseblock. Pretty straightforward. It can be argued that I need an inline fuse still, but I’ve done it this way on multiple vehicles now, and I’ve never had an issue. Again, if there’s questions, I’ll be more than happy to share more.
-Rock lights- I use some cheap Amazon Chinese ones that just clip together. I love these because they’re laughably cheap and relatively durable, but when one goes out, it’s super easy to just change the one that’s out (like a Xmas tree light). You will still have to splice the first light section to power it, but that’s it. Every light downstream of that is isolated by two connectors, one on each end. The only issue is they come in sets of two, with one strand ending at the light itself. So to get full coverage of the vehicle, I had to use four total strands to create one long strand. If this doesn’t make sense, message me and I’ll get more specific.
- Blue sea fuseblock. First off let me just say that I don’t like this. I have used these before and I ended up upgrading to a switchpro, which was so much better/ easier. That being said, I just couldn’t figure out a place to mount the switchpro in the cab that was acceptable to me. Maybe someday somebody will 3D print some kind of insert that will hold a switchpro and provide space for the existing switches, but for now the fuseblock is it. I installed it very carefully on the top of the passenger side fuse cover. Be very careful not to interfere with any relay or fuse beneath your mounting bolts. There is also obviously the argument that this setup creates a “constant power” situation, and I understand that the majority of people don’t like this, and would prefer to tap into something only powered when the truck is on. I get that, but for me, there’s been plenty of times that I’ve needed the benefit of lights without having to turn the truck on. Heard something in the woods and needed to verify it wasn’t a Bigfoot or something. Rock lights are always useful camping and again, don’t want the truck running. Obviously need to be used sparingly or you’ll potentially run the battery down. But this is how I prefer it. And yes I still need an inline fuse from the traction battery to the block, and heatwrap all the lines, but I was tired.
-Swapped out the center console tray. I went through probably 3 of these before I found this one, it’s got a double tray, and it came with the little hideaway part for the upper cubby area in the armrest itself. The pictures show with it empty and then with the corresponding “baskets” in. I’m very pleased with it. Found on Amazon. LUWU for Toyota Land Cruiser... Amazon.com
-I got some leather seat covers, they’re ok for now but I’m not thrilled with them, will replace at some point. Again, Amazon, but I remember the company was called wangwangwang, which was obviously memorable lol.
-Seat jackers because my back is terrible and they really do help a lot, for me at least. Easy install. Very straightforward.
-I mounted a Blackhawk holster on the passenger side for my SIG P365. I like having it there because I can still use the retention clip and it’s not plainly obvious to someone near the driver’s side. Without going fully down the rabbit hole of conceal carry firearms and everybody’s very intense opinions… I have always concealed carry, and I appendix carry. This is, for me, impractical and uncomfortable when driving. I like having my firearm within reach but I like knowing it won’t go flying around the cab in an accident. I also have a lockbox for when I can’t carry wherever it is that I might be going. The lockbox stays tucked away nicely under my seat. I put the holster in the passenger seat rear pocket. Again, comfortable for me to reach if I need my spare magazine or before I get out of the truck. This is simply what works best for me, whatever works for you, great. Shooters preference.
Side note- this was the first mod I did, and if the molle panels existed at that time, I would have installed them, and the holster to that. So I have more molle panels to install in the near future.
-Victory 4x4 molle shelf in the bed. Easy install and I LOVE it. It bolts right into the slots where the rear grab handles are, solid construction and the options are limitless. There are side panels that I will be picking up soon.
-Stickerfab topo stickers here and there, not sure if that counts as a mod, but I’ve worn a hardhat most of my life… so I like stickers.
-Seat gap filler cushions. I tried a few of these as well. These ones I liked the most and honestly I was just tired of ordering $20 things on Amazon and thinking “ehh not perfect.” These have a little slot that I keep small bills in, and a cup holder option. I keep the cup holder on the wife’s side since she always has 11 beverages with her. Drivers side butts up nicely to a separate storage pocket thing that I saw on EOD guys build. I believe he hard mounted his, but I’ve had zero issue so far with just the 3m tape it comes with. Both of which can be easily found on Amazon and I believe I’ve linked it below somewhere.
-Wireless charger that I found on Amazon since the 1958 doesn’t have one. This one fits the space almost perfectly and it’s convenient in conjunction with the magnetic charging mount. I can use the magnetic mount and the wife can use the wireless one. Wireless charger I got from Amazon, I’ll try and find the link, and the magnetic mount I got straight from Verizon.
I think that’s all so far. Next up I want a roof rack and some more molle panels here and there. I’ve also got upgraded fog lights and some raptor style grill lights on the way, and I’ll post when I get that all installed.
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