Door Panel Removal

Gabel1

Active member
๐Ÿ“› Founding Member
Jul 14, 2024
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Murfreesboro TN
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2024 LC 1958
I was curious about the speaker size & quality, so I pulled a front and rear door panel. I thought I would attach photos to assist others in removal. FYI, this is a 1958 edition.

IMG_5478.jpg


Behind the handle is a trim piece to pry off using your removal tool. Once you do, there is a single Philips screw to remove.

IMG_5479.jpg


Now, behind the armrest, there is this panel to remove.

IMG_5485.jpg


IMG_5486.jpg


There are 2 Philips screws to remove behind the panel:

IMG_5487.jpg


Next, you are ready to pull the panels off with the pry tool, starting at the bottom. By the way, be sure and check the clips, as they tend to not pull off with the panels. You will notice that two of the clips stayed in the doors in the next picture. What you will need to do is gently pry them out of the doors and slide them back into the slots in the panels. To do this, I used a pair of wire cutters, making sure not to cut or damage the clips.

IMG_5490.jpg



The next 2 pics shows that there are electrical connectors to unclip prior to the panel removal. I counted 3 on the front door, for the door locks, power windows, and door light at the bottom. Also, the door latch and power lock actuator cables need to be pulled away from the panel.

IMG_5491.jpg
IMG_5495.jpg


Here is a pic without the panel. By the way, the white plug to the left side of the speaker was not hooked up and was just dangling. I looked inside the connector, and it was unpinned. It appears that maybe the LC and FE editions may be using this plug for an additional feature that the 1958 does not use.

IMG_5499.jpg


Here is a pic of the front woofer. I was pleasantly surprised that the cone material is no longer paper as with my prior 4Runners. It appears to be a polypropylene material, which will most definitely sound better and last longer than paper. Good job Toyota! However, Toyota gets no kudos on the goofy speaker bracket size. The speakers are 6 1/2" like my 4Runner. However, the brackets by my measurements are 7 3/4 x 9" and are oval in shape. This was similar to my 4Runner. So, unless I can do some self fabrication on the old brackets, I may need to wait until Crutchfield researches the LC and offers a bracket that properly fits an aftermarket 6 1/2 woofer. Here is a closeup of the speaker, the difference in bracket size vs. speaker is not as noticeable as it is in person. On the rear door, the bracket is round and not oddly sized for the 6 1/2 speaker. By the way, the removal of the rear panel is the same as the front. However, it is much harder to put back in place than the front panel. The reason is that the top of the door panel sits down inside the inner frame and "hangs", so in order to put it back on you have to first align it perfectly with the inner frame and then push down on it. I could not get any photos of this. Just be patient and you will get it back on. Practice makes perfect.


IMG_5500.jpg


I took some photos of the 3 1/2 full range speaker in the corner as well.

IMG_5511.jpg


IMG_5512.jpg


Toyota used paper for these full range cones instead of better material for some reason. In any case, I will try the factory speakers first with an amp and see whether that solves the issue of distortion at higher music levels. Oh, and by the way, I was able to confirm that the armrests on the door panels are removable. It appears that Toyota designed them that way so that 1958 owners can later have them wrapped in SofTex or leather like the higher grades. I have an appointment next week with a Katzkin installer to have the cloth seats skinned and wrapped in Java leather. I will ask whether they can do the armrests and center console lid also. Cheers!
 
I would be surprised if they were available for purchase, but I guess it is possible. Have you checked into it, and how much are they? Part #?
 
Last edited:
I was curious about the speaker size & quality, so I pulled a front and rear door panel. I thought I would attach photos to assist others in removal. FYI, this is a 1958 edition.

View attachment 6857

Behind the handle is a trim piece to pry off using your removal tool. Once you do, there is a single Philips screw to remove.

View attachment 6859

Now, behind the armrest, there is this panel to remove.

View attachment 6860

View attachment 6861

There are 2 Philips screws to remove behind the panel:

View attachment 6862

Next, you are ready to pull the panels off with the pry tool, starting at the bottom. By the way, be sure and check the clips, as they tend to not pull off with the panels. You will notice that two of the clips stayed in the doors in the next picture. What you will need to do is gently pry them out of the doors and slide them back into the slots in the panels. To do this, I used a pair of wire cutters, making sure not to cut or damage the clips.

View attachment 6863


The next 2 pics shows that there are electrical connectors to unclip prior to the panel removal. I counted 3 on the front door, for the door locks, power windows, and door light at the bottom. Also, the door latch and power lock actuator cables need to be pulled away from the panel.

View attachment 6869View attachment 6870

Here is a pic without the panel. By the way, the white plug to the left side of the speaker was not hooked up and was just dangling. I looked inside the connector, and it was unpinned. It appears that maybe the LC and FE editions may be using this plug for an additional feature that the 1958 does not use.

View attachment 6871

Here is a pic of the front woofer. I was pleasantly surprised that the cone material is no longer paper as with my prior 4Runners. It appears to be a polypropylene material, which will most definitely sound better and last longer than paper. Good job Toyota! However, Toyota gets no kudos on the goofy speaker bracket size. The speakers are 6 1/2" like my 4Runner. However, the brackets by my measurements are 7 3/4 x 9" and are oval in shape. This was similar to my 4Runner. So, unless I can do some self fabrication on the old brackets, I may need to wait until Crutchfield researches the LC and offers a bracket that properly fits an aftermarket 6 1/2 woofer. Here is a closeup of the speaker, the difference in bracket size vs. speaker is not as noticeable as it is in person. On the rear door, the bracket is round and not oddly sized for the 6 1/2 speaker. By the way, the removal of the rear panel is the same as the front. However, it is much harder to put back in place than the front panel. The reason is that the top of the door panel sits down inside the inner frame and "hangs", so in order to put it back on you have to first align it perfectly with the inner frame and then push down on it. I could not get any photos of this. Just be patient and you will get it back on. Practice makes perfect.


View attachment 6873

I took some photos of the 3 1/2 full range speaker in the corner as well.

View attachment 6874

View attachment 6875

Toyota used paper for these full range cones instead of better material for some reason. In any case, I will try the factory speakers first with an amp and see whether that solves the issue of distortion at higher music levels. Oh, and by the way, I was able to confirm that the armrests on the door panels are removable. It appears that Toyota designed them that way so that 1958 owners can later have them wrapped in SofTex or leather like the higher grades. I have an appointment next week with a Katzkin installer to have the cloth seats skinned and wrapped in Java leather. I will ask whether they can do the armrests and center console lid also. Cheers!
Love to hear more details about wrapping the 1958 armrest in softex material
 
The shop said they could not do it, because Katzkin only sends them the material to do the seats. I went ahead and used the shop to do the seats only. I am sure if you shop around first, you can find a Katzkin installer that will agree to wrap the console and armrests in addition to the seats. I would think that you run the risk of the leather color and feel not matching completely though. If someone does the full job, please report back here to update us. Cheers!
 

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I was curious about the speaker size & quality, so I pulled a front and rear door panel. I thought I would attach photos to assist others in removal. FYI, this is a 1958 edition.

View attachment 6857

Behind the handle is a trim piece to pry off using your removal tool. Once you do, there is a single Philips screw to remove.

View attachment 6859

Now, behind the armrest, there is this panel to remove.

View attachment 6860

View attachment 6861

There are 2 Philips screws to remove behind the panel:

View attachment 6862

Next, you are ready to pull the panels off with the pry tool, starting at the bottom. By the way, be sure and check the clips, as they tend to not pull off with the panels. You will notice that two of the clips stayed in the doors in the next picture. What you will need to do is gently pry them out of the doors and slide them back into the slots in the panels. To do this, I used a pair of wire cutters, making sure not to cut or damage the clips.

View attachment 6863


The next 2 pics shows that there are electrical connectors to unclip prior to the panel removal. I counted 3 on the front door, for the door locks, power windows, and door light at the bottom. Also, the door latch and power lock actuator cables need to be pulled away from the panel.

View attachment 6869View attachment 6870

Here is a pic without the panel. By the way, the white plug to the left side of the speaker was not hooked up and was just dangling. I looked inside the connector, and it was unpinned. It appears that maybe the LC and FE editions may be using this plug for an additional feature that the 1958 does not use.

View attachment 6871

Here is a pic of the front woofer. I was pleasantly surprised that the cone material is no longer paper as with my prior 4Runners. It appears to be a polypropylene material, which will most definitely sound better and last longer than paper. Good job Toyota! However, Toyota gets no kudos on the goofy speaker bracket size. The speakers are 6 1/2" like my 4Runner. However, the brackets by my measurements are 7 3/4 x 9" and are oval in shape. This was similar to my 4Runner. So, unless I can do some self fabrication on the old brackets, I may need to wait until Crutchfield researches the LC and offers a bracket that properly fits an aftermarket 6 1/2 woofer. Here is a closeup of the speaker, the difference in bracket size vs. speaker is not as noticeable as it is in person. On the rear door, the bracket is round and not oddly sized for the 6 1/2 speaker. By the way, the removal of the rear panel is the same as the front. However, it is much harder to put back in place than the front panel. The reason is that the top of the door panel sits down inside the inner frame and "hangs", so in order to put it back on you have to first align it perfectly with the inner frame and then push down on it. I could not get any photos of this. Just be patient and you will get it back on. Practice makes perfect.


View attachment 6873

I took some photos of the 3 1/2 full range speaker in the corner as well.

View attachment 6874

View attachment 6875

Toyota used paper for these full range cones instead of better material for some reason. In any case, I will try the factory speakers first with an amp and see whether that solves the issue of distortion at higher music levels. Oh, and by the way, I was able to confirm that the armrests on the door panels are removable. It appears that Toyota designed them that way so that 1958 owners can later have them wrapped in SofTex or leather like the higher grades. I have an appointment next week with a Katzkin installer to have the cloth seats skinned and wrapped in Java leather. I will ask whether they can do the armrests and center console lid also. Cheers!
So when I was 16 I started my own stereo business. What I used to do is make a lot of custom brackets. If you take off the factory speaker you can create a very easy template. Using cardboard from a box you can cut out a hole to allow for the magnet to go through and trace out the shape of the speaker with the bracket onto the cardboard. Cut out the shape and now you can use that on a piece of MDF to create your template. Take a router and take off the edges now you have a blank you can place any size speaker inside. You just cur the inside to the size you want to use.
 
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