Stock Wheels - offset and bolt pattern?
- Thread starter supersix
- Start date
I think the Toyota manual says "Heavy AF".
On this topic, unfortunately mine has been built at the factory with the dumb 20” alloys and I don’t have any way to change that until after taking delivery.
Does anyone know the part number for the black 18’s that come on 1958 and FE models? At least I could price them or wait for some to show up in marketplaces after people stand doing swap outs
Does anyone know the part number for the black 18’s that come on 1958 and FE models? At least I could price them or wait for some to show up in marketplaces after people stand doing swap outs
14x1.5 is the answer I got from both Vossen and Method.
I realized I'm dumb and can answer my own question. I work for Toyota and can grab these specs easily lol
Stock Wheel offsets and tire sizes -
So how much further out would this set your rim in comparison to stock 18” rims?
(Sorry, all this offset nonsense makes my head spin)
I also want to use a 285/70/17, but I would like to try to get by with stock rims u til I have driven for a while and decide the direction I am going in.
Maybe stick rims with 1.5” wheel spacers…….?
- Moderator
- #33
So ....
285 = that's how wide the Tire tread is
70 = how tall the tire is from the outer lip wheel (bigger the number taller the tire)
17 or 18 or 20 = the diameter of the wheel (17 is not a stock wheel dia that I'm aware of)
+60 off set = is how far the wheel/tire will stick out from the mounting flange. as an example ..... if you had a "0" off set and a 10" wheel/tire width, the wheel would mount and 5" would cover the brakes and you would have a 5" deep recess of wheel showing, which makes the tire also stick out 5".
With a +60 offset the wheel/tire would be in the stock position almost all of it covering the brakes. If you like wheels/tires that poke way out from the body you would go with a -40 and most of the tire would be outside the body. Sometimes you need the - offset to accommodate large tires for turning radius or use wheel spacers to accomplish the same thing.
I my case I'm looking at pretty close to stock stick out and just a bit taller.
Additionally lug nut spacing is super important, not all Toyota wheels have the same lug nut hole spacing. I'm pretty sure the 2020 Tacoma is the same along with a lot of other 6 lug Toyota 4X4s but not all.
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Yeah, I got the tire stuff down… additionally I would add that in this case the “70” means the sidewall height is 70% of the width.
The offset nonsense still screws me up. Your explanation helps a bunch though actually, thanks!
So….. using a stock rim, will a 285/70/18 rub? (Not so much a question for you, but the one I am pondering). Maybe some Spidertrax 1” spacers would be enough to do the trick.
From my browsing around
- a 33" tire seems to fit fine (in fact, standard equipment on a GX550 Overtrail) - no concerns
- but a 34" is pushing your luck and will probably rub with suspension articulation
- and a 35" tire will rub on flat pavement
- Moderator
- #36
I'm thinking with the wider tire it may be close. If you wait a few months, some
one will try it
This doesn't mention the Bore size. I think I know what is meant by "bore" but most folks seem to not even mention it when talking about what wheels they're getting. I think I saw in a different post that the OEM wheels had a bore of 112. Does that mean an aftermarket would need to have that as a minimum and that a bore smaller than 112 would not work?
Something like this from Fuel:
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Actually, I think I just answered my own question. According to www.wheel-size.com, the Center Bore is 95.1mm:
- Moderator
- #39
A lot of vehicles have a "hub centric" mounting flange on the rotor/hub. I'm not sure if the LC has hub centric hubs or not (probably). Hub centric means the wheel fits snugly on the hub and the raised lip on the hub centers the wheel on the hub so the lug holes line up and when the lug nuts are tightened, they further align the wheel. It's important that all lug nuts are snugged up before the finial torque is applied.
All that being said........ it might be possible to put a larger "bore" (greater than 95.1 mm) on the hub, but would probably result in a shaky ride (like a tire/wheel was out of balance.
All that being said........ it might be possible to put a larger "bore" (greater than 95.1 mm) on the hub, but would probably result in a shaky ride (like a tire/wheel was out of balance.
If the wheels have a bore larger than 95.1 you will want to use hubcentric rings which insert into the opening on the wheel. This will reduce the bore to the correct size which ensures it remains perfectly centered.
Without this you are relying on the lugs to center the wheels which isn’t ideal.
Without this you are relying on the lugs to center the wheels which isn’t ideal.
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